MidniteMechanic

Thanks folks.

Cylinder is connected to trucks air tank. Just can't find my old Kysor wiring diagrams.

There is no leading or trailing shoe, they are the same. The color on the edge along with the printing is simply for identification. How much difference is there in the thickness?

If it is alot it is possible they mixed Q and Q+ shoes in the same box. I was never impressed with they quality of Meritor reman shoes.

Must be red.

Perfectly legal on a truck. Key is casing and cap quality. Any concerns run them on the drive or trailer for a trip or two. If it's a bad cap it will show up pretty quick.

Do you mean a complete air drier or just the dessicant cartridge replaced? If just the cartridge, was the purge valve rebuilt and possibly cut an O-ring?

I would suspect a bad check valve on either the drier or the wet tank. It will bleed air out the purge valve if one of them is leaking.

Glad to help. $212 for a drum sounds a little steep. Yes usually close enough is good enough in production. You will go nuts trying to match 'precision' to it.

Rob,

If you've never replaced a kingpin just note that it only gets welded on the top flange not on the shank.

What is the date and actual location of Macungie.

I'm wondering if this thing has hydraulic release parking brakes. If so bleed the parking cylinder last.

Try vacuum bleeding them. They take ALOT of fluid to bleed all the air out. I spent a couple hours bleeding one wheel end.

If the tag is there yet, it is on the underside of the transverse beam air spring mounting plate.

None of the cooling system is interchangable between the BC 3&4. BC 4's are a pain, better to find a BC3.

Sounds like the air dryer needs serviced also.

Sounds like the check valve in the drier is leaking by. It is the fitting that goes to the air tanks.

Yes new is the way to go. Don't forget to resurface the flywheel. New pilot bearing, clutch brake and release shaft bushings. Release shafts and fork and input shaft if needed.

Hey All,

I'm interested in opinions on diagnostic equipment. I don't want to spend a ton of money so I've been looking at online auctions. Not sure about them.

My primary needs are Cat ET/SIS and Allison DOC for PC and trailer ABS. I want to go PC based, I've used a Prolink in the past and never liked it, always had trouble with there cards not working right.

I am thinking of a Panasonic Toughbook and a Noregon DLA/PLC translator. If the new Prolinks are better let me know, I might reconsider.

Thats what I thought that they were rolling over. But with 'almost new' drums there would have to be no lining left at all and even then I don't think they'd roll over.

With the new chambers make sure to mount them in the correct holes based on the slack length. Don't rely on were they were mounted they could be wrong.

And there is a procedure to properly cut the push rod to length. The one I use is on MGM brakes website. I've done so many I ended up making a jig.

Never seize everything and lots of grease will keep them working forever.

It's hard to tell from the picture how severe and deep the cracks are. Depending on the pressure and how much there run they might be ok. But be cautious they could also zipper on you. That could cause serious injury.

Rob, put up some pictures. We should be able to figure it out.

slpwlker, if you do have the Holland with the bolt in the throat it's not to bad to rebuild. The one with the bolt out the front requires more work to do right. You can't just throw the parts in and expect it to work. I think thats the one Rob has.

Either way if the guy couldn't identify the head, he's not the one you want working on it. If something goes wrong theres huge liability.

Most of the Fontaines were refered to as "no slack". The early ones had the adjuster bolt on. The later ones still had the rod but it had a round head and weren't adjustable. It was only there to free a tight wedge. Which is one of the reasons I said to remove it.

A fifth wheel with a bolt sticking out the front or with an allen head bolt in the throat are both Hollands.

Close the jaws and see if both wedges slide across. If they do then check for play with a 2" slug. There should be a bolt with a 15/16" head sticking out the right side of the head. Turn it counter clockwise, it will let the rear wedge slide farther across and take out the slack. More than likely it will be rusted fast and won't turn. You have 2 choices then, heat the nut on the underside of the head and get it to turn or my choice, cut off the part of the bolt that sticks past the nut that the wedge would rest against. You don't need it anyway, then it will let the wedges auto adjust. The biggest reason it was there was if a wedge got tight (hardly ever happens) and you couldn't pull the release handle you could hit the bolt with a hammer and loosen the wedge.

If you haven't already just pull the bell housing off. It's faster and easier, then you can just wedge a putty knife behind the bearing retainer. If you really dislike the noise of the 125 then the 146 is worthwhile.

As far as I know plastic is not legal. Rubber is the only way to go on any flexible connection. Plus plastic will kink on the steer axle. Plastic will break with extended flexing.