mack31

Hi 

I am looking for a roll back that I can tag as an antique. 
Thank you 

Ryan 

51 minutes ago, terry said:

Better prepare for a rear gear swap, gas engines have deeper ratio gears than a diesel.  Terry

Any insight would be appreciated. I live in in Avondale PA. Looking for truck guys to collaborate with. 

I would like to take my fire truck further distance with more power. Looking for a diesel to swap out with the 707. 

A 1933 Mack BG fire truck ready to be finished. The engine does run and we have a video.  Everything is there with the exception of onebucket seat. Only serious inquiries. $8000

A 1933 Mack BG fire truck ready to be finished. The engine does run and we have a video.  Everything is there with the exception of one bucket seat. Only serious inquiries. $8000

I was looking for a little more power, higher speed, would like to travel to farther truck shows. I am the only driver. 
 

I have a 1951 L fire truck. 
Looking at the possibility of putting in a diesel. Will a Mack diesel match up with the current trans or would I need a trans as well? 
 

also do I have to have the big air filter on the exterior of the hood? 

1962 B85 fire truck. Seaford Long Island NY. 

Comes with equipment as seen in photos. 
707c, air brakes, new battery and new fuel pump. Needs a good polish and it will be ready for the nice weather. $10,000

10 hours ago, fd2721 said:

@609albert would I be able to get a copy of your wiring diagram as well? I have a 1950 LS85 and desperately need some wiring information. Unfortunately the Mack museum doesn't have a copy of the information for my truck so I am searching for whatever I can get to try and straighten out the wiring on the old girl. 

Send me your email I will forward what he sent me 

On 9/22/2013 at 10:20 AM, Bigdogtrucker said:

Anybody know much about these?How are the engines,any parts around?

Hi is this truck still available 

1930 sold 

I have two Mack Fire extinguishers for sale. $1000 each 

We are selling a 1930 Mack BC chain drive from Franklin Square- Munson FD. New starter, rebuilt carburetor, new spark plugs and battery. Also includes hand crank siren not shown. Only chain drive built at the Long Island factory per Mack records. Located in PA. Will need paint. $8500

1958 Mack B model in good condition. Marked Haynor Hoyt which was the past owners company. Gloversville NY Fire Dept. $9500

Ryan 610-745-0280

2 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Whats wrong with it that it should be replaced? Unless you just want a spare. Most of the starters of that vintage can be rebuilt a thousand times over.

The quote I got to be rebuilt is way more than I can get a newer one for

Looking for a replacement starter for my 1930 BC Mack. It’s a 3 bolt mount and it’s 12 volts. 
I have attached a picture of the tag which only has the numbers left on it. 
429 and 3684 

Looking for a replacement starter for my 1930 BC Mack. It’s a 3 bolt mount and it’s 12 volts. 
I have attached a picture of the tag which only has the numbers left on it. 
429 and 3684 

On 10/16/2023 at 8:20 AM, Geoff Weeks said:

1st an most likely is a bad connection.  If the ground side goes to the frame, and the the engine is connected to the frame with a braided strap, it adds connections and likely fail points,  The starter is the highest amp draw on the battery, so run is few connections between it and the battery as possible. Make sure all connections are clean and tight. On my old six volt stuff I run the ground right to the starter mounting bolt, or a bolt on the engine or transmission that is at least 3/8" and make sure the metal around the bolt is clean.  I then replace any braided straps between the engine and frame to make sure the engine is bonded to the frame and the same with the cab/chassie.

 I don't know your engine, so am going to give general advice which may or may not apply:

if the starter has a remote solenoid switch make sure it is conducting when activated. A bad ground to the cab thought the mounting bolts, or a bad ground of the cab to the engine both can cause failure.

If the starter is operated by a mechanical link and "button" on the floor, the contacts in the mechanical switch on the starter could be at fault.

 The starter itself could need some attention, Starters of this vintage often had "oil cups" at the rear and sometimes front end. Many times the starter motor shaft ride directly in the cast iron cover and the oil wick is all the keeps it from galling on the shaft. My manual calls for them to be lubed every 500- 1000 miles! Most never see any attention.

 The starter could have internal problems, like a open segment on the commutator or one bad winding on the armature.

If you suspect the starter, pull it out and connect up to a battery with jumper cables, it should kick and spin (just do a quick test, don't run for a long time with no load).

Because the truck cranked over on a new battery but then doesn't, could also be something like a stuck generator cut-out drawing the new battery down when the engine isn't running. Check for sparks when you connect the battery leads, there shouldn't be any, with everything turned off (headlights etc).

 A test light, or volt meter can be of help to check for voltage drop across connections. A quick way to find poor connections on the starter (if it will crank at all) is heat, feel the connections after the starter has cranked (you did say it would crank with a fresh battery) and any warm or hot connection is a bad one.

 

Ok so we have power. Which is good. 
 

When attempting to start there is a grinding sound and then no movement. I did spin the fan and attempted a start again but it sounds like the starter tries to spin but then nothing. 
Should I pull the starter ?

On 9/29/2023 at 9:29 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

Best thing that can help is a picture of the rear end from the front, any casting numbers you find on the drop-out (center section, hogs head, pig or what ever slang is in use in your area) and same for the transmission.

We need to ID these two items in order to see what can replace the current gear sets with the least amount of changes.

 A check on line of the Mack model numbers leads nowhere for either the trans or the rear. If you are lucky, Mack didn't make them, but bought a vendor supplied unit, and we have to figure out who that was and what they call that model.

Geoff you have been great help. I need more help with my 1930 trying to get it running. Had an old battery that couldn’t keep a charge but the engine would turn over. Replaced it today with a new battery it cranked over twice. Now we have nothing. It won’t do anything not even a click. Please help 

12v system. 

38 minutes ago, Brocky said:

Sound more like a loose or broken wire between the starter switch and the starter solenoid????

Ok I will trace that. Thank you 
 

We have a distributor and magneto as well as a generator. Not sure if this has anything to do with it. We are trying to learn and research but coming up with little info 

Trying to get our 1930 BC running. It was cranking earlier but now we have nothing at all not even a click. I just replaced the battery today with a heavy duty because the old battery was done. 
It is a 12volt negative ground system.

Could it be the ignition coil? 

Here is my carb. Does the rectangle next to the carb have anything to do with it. I’ve was wondering if this truck has a Governor on it. 

Thank you guys for all of the input. My head is spinning but I will have to figure what the best route is and is it worth it. 
 

I can fix and run the pumps no problem but when it comes to the drive train I am looking for help. 

22 minutes ago, yarnall said:

I saw your Facebook post.  For the top step on the fender, mine has a piece of wood cut with Mack logo plate bolted to it.  I know Gary Mahan had had some it the plates cast. Do you also need the back step?  I have one of those. Mike. 

Hi Mike 

Yes I do need the top and the back step on the fender. 
 

I think I have found the shutters I have to go see and measure them after everyone gets home from Hershey 

Axle, rear- RA 45

Trans- TRF 321

Tires- 9.00x20