leversole

My tie rod ends are garbage! Is this a standard stock parts item? Mack dealer only?

The steer axle is an FA517.

Thanks

I have stemco seals on the steer axles...I read an old post that indicated gear oil runs in them, correct? Would normal valvoline 90wt gear oil work?

Thanks

Do the two volume Mack highway service manuals cover the B-models?

Thanks

Hi Ellis, most B series brake lamp switches I've seen are on the left side of the truck just under the rear of the cab, or barely under it. The ones I've seen are inside of the frame rail. This of course is for a left hand drive truck and I don't know about right hand driven types but assume near the same.

Rob

As Rob said, in the frame rail...mine had two air lines, one from brake valve, one from column trailer valve, and two wires,

you should be able to track it by any of these three.

Good luck

I have a question, me not being a welder "by trade", I usually rent an engine driven welder when I need to do some welding. I can rent one here for $60.00 for 24 hours, a whisperweld 250 amp mounted on axle with Honda gas engine. It does okay, but want to get one of my own for better convience. Im going to either get a Miller bobcat or trailblazer series and mount it on a small trailer, along with an air compressor and oxy-acetylene bottles. Not being a educated welder, my question is, Do I have to mount the oxy-acetylene in a standing position, or is it okay to build a rack for the bottles to lie flat in trailer? Reason I ask, seems like it would ride better lying down. Got any professional opinions on this or rules? thanks,,,,randyp

Acetylene should never be stored on it side...the tank is filled with a porous solid and the gas is dissolved in acetone to keep the pressure below 15 lbs. It is very dangerous to have acetylene above 15 psi!

Thanks...I got it working, will post some pics and pitfalls later...charges great at idle!

Thanks for your help

I just run a standard three wire 10SI series Delco alternator. These use an internal regulator. As you look at the rear of the alternator housing with the spade terminals on top, attach the left spade terminal wire to the "BAT" post via a ring terminal end, and run switched voltage to the other terminal. Also attach the large 10 gauge wire that actually charges the batteries to the "BAT" terminal. The switched voltage comes from your ignition switch.

You will also need a conversion pulley to drive the alternator as the automotive belts are a little smaller in size than the industrial standard size used by Mack trucks. Although the original pulley supplied with the alternator will work, it is hard on belts. To run an automotive style belt that fits the alternator will bottom the belt in the pulleys on the water pump and crankshaft on the engine.

I've seen these slip quite easily. However if your truck operation is limited it will last for a while without problems.

The company I've used for conversion pulleys is no longer in business so I can't help you there much.

The alternator setup will charge batteries at idle with a load on them much better than a generator will so you'll have no problems. You will need to fabricate brackets and ensure you belts line up. Side loads kill bearings and bushings in that series alternator as they are small to start with.

Rob

Thanks...did you use an indicator light in the switched circuit? Many of the conversion digrams on the internet talk about the need for a indicator light in that circuit to make the alt work...Also, how did you keep the ammeter in the circuit, pull the bat wire off the the old regulator and attach to the bat terminal on alt?

Thanks again

Not getting any voltage out of the generator battery terminal.

Tested the generator the old fashioned way, ground the field, chevk for voltage with engine running and regulator disconnected. No voltage (.048 or so). This tells me the gen is not putting out...BUT, another test is supposed to be applying 12 volts to the gen battery terminal and the thing will spin (no belt tension) like a motor if it is good, it did?!? So, two conflicting stories...

Just want to make sure the gen is bad before I dpend the money on an alternator...

Thanks

Leslie

I checked them out...I believe they only do stock size B model stuff...

I looked again, they do custom reductions also...will have to make an inquiry...

Here is the address www.pearlcraft.com.au

I ran across a website from a company in Australia that either custom made or rebuilt steering wheels, but I can't remember the name of the place.

I checked them out...I believe they only do stock size B model stuff...

Bottomed-out Busted Bostrom...This is what you must endure when you are a lardA$$! Hopefully I can lay my hands on a stock Mack seat soon...maybe get it re-apholstered a little thinner...Also on the lookout for an R model steering wheel...It is especially fun at speed when the front and rear wheels' flat spots get out of phase by 180 degrees! With the loose cab mount (another story) it is like an amusement park ride! Only a few fillings left in my teeth.

Took the ol' girl out on the highway today and opened her up...the GPS reported a blistering 57 mph!

Smooth while the tire's flat spots were not synch'd up! But oh boy when they did!

Can someone send/post a picture or two of their air horn plumbing? I have the separated dual horns, but would enjoy pictures of any setup...looking at ways to mount the valve and T and the pull cord...doesnt look like a lot of options to mount things!

Thanks All

Driving around my town I spotted a cabover and what looked liked heavy truck salvage off the highway behind some woods. As I drive up I spotted these! Could not believe my eyes! 4 B models and an R600 with a dump bed attached! There is even an LTL that looks like it was just parked there and left. Also an old Brockway...I talked to the neighbors (a scrap yard) and they told me about the owner and how he would not sell ANYTHING and that he would rather scrap something than sell it...Well, that was a heartbreaker. They said he hauls heavy stuff, like tanks and such. Once I get my truck licensed, I will drive it to his house, THEN ask if he would part with some parts!

Duh!!!!!!!!!!!

I have been fighting a cool runing motor...I covered about 3/4's of the radiator today to ge the temp above 120...went up only a few degree...Dont know WHY I did not think of the thermostat! Probably stuck open...have a new task tomorrow!

Started the truck last night...piddling around letting it get warm, noticed the shutters were open? Got up in the cab and noticed the air pressure was about 30 and not climbing...I shut the engine off, looked under the hood and heard the govenor leaking air. As it was dark and late I will look at it this evening...my question is, are these things normally rebuildable, I would think it is just a spring, valve, and some ports.

I would think that when the pressure overcomes the spring pressure, it opens a port, bleeds off the air in the the valve line, thereby unloading the compressor, so maye the valve is stuck open and not letting the compressor build pressure?!? Correct?

Thanks

Thank You! Just what I was looking for!

PS...Beautiful truck!

My exhaust bracket (that bolts to teh frame and supports the exhaust stack) has been modified...I will eventually buy a stock one but for now, I want to modify mine to put the exhaust in the "stock" location...

Can someone measure for me, the distance from the frame to the pipe clamp bolt holes?

Thanks

Leslie

Although I have a few S-k Sockets sets (no complaints) I am a believer in Craftsman tools....quality and replacement policy.

I was looking at something in the garage today and realized that most of my tools were bought when I was in my twenties!

A lot of my stuff is 25 plus years old!

That's a combination double check valve/stoplight switch.

That makes the most sense...as you would want the trolley valve and the treadle to both actuate the brake light...

The switch was sluggish is why I replaced it...it is probably full of oil!

Thanks all

Read thru the archives and determined the Delco 10SI was most recomended...

Will the stock pulley turn it fast enough to charge at idle?

Where/what diameter pully?

3 wire or single wire?

Thanks

What year did Mack start putting alternators in trucks?

I have a 72 or newer 675, presumably out of R model...

Would this engine have come with an alternator?

I have a generator now and would like to replace with an alternator

Thanks

Thanks all...

The brake switch would only work with a full and lengthy application of brakes.

So for now,I bypassed this check valve and put on a new brake switch, everything groovy now

Wondering what this is? One line comes from a service port on the treadle valve, the other goes to the column mounted trailer brake lever, and it has the brake switch. All of the diagrams I have show the column lever gets full air from the tank. Why would the trailer brake test valve get air only when the brake pedal is pressed? Confused...

Thanks

Got it! Truck stops much better with front brakes! It was the limiting quick release valve...will take it apart tomorrow and check it out...