slspacek

I got it too.🤦‍♂️

I too was told that on the older Macks, the gold bulldog symbolized the maxidyne engine Vs the thermodyne. Some on else maybe able to verify, the maxidyne engine was overhead cam and the thermodyne was a push rod engine? ? ?

Does anyone know what voltage I should be reading on any of the six poles of ( what I was told was an 8000 Leece Neville alternator). This alternator has 6 wire connection studs. 3 are marked AC 1 is G+, 1 is G-, and the last one is marked F.

Thank you.

Sean

Does anyone know what voltages I should be reading between the different poles on an 8000 Leece Neville alternator when the engine is running? There are 6 studs with wires coming out off them on mine. Batteries are not charging when engine is running. It is on a 1966 C-95 Mack. Thanks fellas.

Bolt heads are 9/16, standard for 3/8" bolts. Havn't cleaned all the muck and road dirt off yet, would think they are probably just grade 5. Will post a pick soon.

I am replacing the U joints on my 1966 C Model fire engine. The Short shaft between the 5 speed tranny and the pump tranny has 8 hole flanges on either end the bolt to the Tranny's. When I was removing the shaft one bolt was missing from each set of flanges and the others were not very tight. I would like to replace all bolts with new ones. Are they a special bolt or can I use a standard bolt, grade5 or grade8. I know they are 3/8 " fine thread, and I am not sure but the shoulder portion of the bolt may be a little longer to allow the flanges to not "bear" against the threaded portion to the bolt were it may be weaker. Also does any one know if there is a recommended torque value for these bolts? Thanks guys.

I am replacing the coolant hoses on my 1966 C-95 Mack. most hoses are straight and I can find replacement hose. There is one hose on top of the heat exchanger that allows pump water to assist in cooling engines coolant. It is a 90 degree hose that hooks to the what I believe is the thermostat housing. Any one have any idea where I might find this hose? Will a piece of heater hose bend that tight ( I may try that soon). Thanks again guys.

Sean

Thanks guys, I am going to replace the joints on the shaft due to the fact that on each end there was 1 bolt completly missing and the others were not very tight. Could have been some vibration there. Upon inspection of the other drive shaft from pump to rear wheels, there is oil/grease being slung from two of the caps. I will be replacing those as well. while the rig is down for the season this is the time to do it. Any advice on getting those U joints appart? Pretty sure they are the origionals from 1966.

I am replacing an input shaft on the pump transmission of my 1966 C-95 Mack fire engine. I had to remove the short drive shaft between the 5 speed and the pump tranny. I figured while it was out I might as well service the u joints on that shaft. I have the origional manual that came with the truck and it states that these joint should be lubricated with straight 90 weight gear oil and following that statement in the manual are the words ( in caps) DO NOT USE GREASE. These U joints are the ones with two bolts and a football shaped cap on each side of the cross holding the bearings in and on those caps are the words Spicer and use oil. Any one know why use oil versus grease? The crosses in the U loints have a grease gun type fitting on them as stated in the manual and apparently also a relief valve in case of high pressure. Next question, do they make a tool/pump that will fill these joints with the gear oil through the fitting? Any help or recommendations would be a huge help. I may replace the u joints while they are out, any suggestions on what to replace with? Thanks fellas. Keep on truckin.

Sean

On my restoration, I sent mine back to the Mack Reman. Center and they rebuilt mine and sent it back. You would have to go thru the Mack dealer of your choice.

Do you remember how much it cost to rebuild the water pump?

Does any body out there know if parts are available to rebuild a series parallel switch? Mine is in a 1966 C-95 fire engine. It has three black sections with battery size connections on the first and third sections. The coil portion seems to work fine but the contact points are shot. I have tracked down a new one to the tune of $164.00, but the guy that sells it said they used to rebuild them ( not much demand anymore, I guess). I am going to check with a starter/alternator shop in my area on tuesday. Just curious if anyone new of a place to purchase rebuild parts.

Thanks.

Sean

That's normally how it's done in our shop, but just in case you're a stickler for procedure here are the torque specs:

Single Axles [RS 23] 118–142 ft lbs

34,000–38,000 lb. Axles (Eight 9/16-inch Studs) 100–125 ft lbs

44,000–52,000 lb. Axles (Six 5/8-inch Studs with Conical Washers) 118–142 ft lbs

Drive Flange Retaining Nuts for Two-Piece Splined Shafts 140–171 ft lbs.

You are the man!

Wasn't sure if I could do any damage by over tightening, I am not a mechanic by trade.

Thanks again.

Sean

Does any one know if there is a reccomended torque value for reinstalling the nuts that hold the axle in the rear end? I have a 1966 C-95 fire engine that was towed recently and now it's time to reinstall the axle and gaskets. Should I just tighten them down with an impact wrench? Thanks fellas.

Sean

I have a 1966 C-95 with the dual tach setup. I will try to check it out this weekend and get back to you.

Sean

66C-95,

Are you looking for the dimension of the round gasket that goes in the top filter cover?

Firemack

Yes the gasket that goes between the filter housing and the top cover. Thanks.

Sean

Hey Guys, Finally got to work on the old dog last weekend, and the wix brand filter mentioned in the lasst post, fit great and worked well. I had between 50 and 60 Psi oil pressure running down the road. However the gaskets that come with it are to small. I am running my old one for now. Has anyone had luck with cutting there own? Where can you get the rubber material? All I can find is a fiber/paper material around here. Firemack, Does the place you got the origional Napa#1237filter dimension give the exact dimensions of the gasket that came with it?

66 C-95

Here are the dimensions:

Original WIX 51503

H 8.25" 8.0"

OD 4.5" 4.0"

ID .625" .567"

It looks like it should fit, it is less than 1/16" small on the ID but I think that the original had a good clearance on the ID (and has a rubber gasket to take up the slack) so it should work.

Try it out and let us know.

Thanks

Firemack

The filter I mentioned above have come in. Luber finer dealer said the napagold crossed to a luber finer p71 that is no longer made, but the wix filter he sold me is 1/4" taller and 1/2: smaller in diameter, I think it will work. It looks darn close. I dropped the filters off at my brothers house where the truck is garaged but will get the number and post it as soon as possible. Thanks for all your help.

The wix number they gave me is 51503. I may not get to try the filter for a few weeks will keep you posted.

Engine 2 qtrs,

Barry and I looked into this about a year ago, and I have a master oil filter cross reference, I have tried every other filter, Wix 51237, Fleetgard LF539, Purolator P525, Hastings 606, Baldwin C36M, Fram C147, I have not had any luck finding these, anyone else have any ideas? I think the best solution is a close match like 66-C95 is trying , if it works we can then use it.

FireMack

The filter I mentioned above have come in. Luber finer dealer said the napagold crossed to a luber finer p71 that is no longer made, but the wix filter he sold me is 1/4" taller and 1/2: smaller in diameter, I think it will work. It looks darn close. I dropped the filters off at my brothers house where the truck is garaged but will get the number and post it as soon as possible. Thanks for all your help.

Does any body know if any company makes a replacement for cartridge oil filter used on the mack 707 gas engine? It use to be a NAPAGold# 1237. But napa has since discontinued that part. Luber Finer has also stopped making the exact replacement. My Luber Finer dealer is ordering me a close replacement to try. He says it is 1/2" smaller in diameter. I am an electrician by trade, so I will ask, Will this make a big difference or cause any problems? The other spec difference is the new filter is 1/4" longer, But I don't believe the filter element came up to the top of the canister So I will give it a try when it comes in and have plenty of rags close by. Thanks for any input. Keep on truckin.

Does anybody know if anyone makes a conversion kit to change from cartridge type oil filters to spin-on filters for the Mack 707 gas six cylinder engine?

Does any one have a good rule of thumb to use for checking the proper tension of the Water pump/Generator belts on a 673 Mack diesel? Thanks guys.

Sean