MACKS

Nice work,congrats to u all….

Sweet..

The hard part on an RD is the cab sits close to the rails..

Pretty much the way I did it on my cl but found a cl or ch bracket and had to alter it a little after all said and done came out great, might have pictures somewhere..I know I have better photos,see if I can find them..

Hope everyone has an awesome day…

One thing for sure that truck has some clean rails,did it spend its life down South?

Anybody notice the news hasn’t been reporting on the Russia and Ukraine war the past few days,I mean not even a peep?🤔🤷‍♂️

49 minutes ago, JoeH said:

On this setup I believe the crossmember inside the tandem unbolts I have a truck with this setup, but I've never pulled it apart.  Trunnion bar underneath has bolt on caps underneath, so depending on what you're trying to accomplish you probably have a few options.  You could unbolts the trunnion bar caps and lift the truck off the suspension/tears.  Whatever you're thinking it requires lots of room and big toys to get this job done, everything is heavy!!!

That’s the way I would go,then remove fifth wheel and plate should be plenty of room to sand blast and paint,chances are the trunnion caps and bolts will need replace anyway..

Well good luck and I hope u take a lot of  pictures. along the way..

Ok my bad, u want to remove the A frame also,man I wouldn’t attempt that..lol

Yup  torque rods to but what 10.5 locking nut,I’m talking about the. Trunnion caps under the truck not the ones on the ends of the bar, probably a better word for the ones I’m talking about..

The only thing holding the bogies on is the two trunnion caps underneath the trunnion bar right,once removed jack up the rails disconnect drive shaft,and air lines and roll em out..

That’s awesome,Happy Birthday..

21 minutes ago, mowerman said:

it’s no wonder there’s so much crime in this shit pit the law doesn’t do anything to any of them

It really is sickening..😡

12 minutes ago, cruiseliner64 said:

Is cylinder wash a problem without this working? Iv no experence with Mack engines and im getting advice from two sides...one says I dont need it and one says ill do damage to the engine because of cylinder wash from overfueling.....thanks for your input by the way...

Paul

Like I said take it easy on the pedal I don’t really mean hold back just drive normal and u will be fine ,some guys love to roll coal so they just put it to floor ..lol

Just my two cents but u really don’t need this on your engine,back in the day every one disconnected them or put an air switch in the cab to shut them off,just take it easy on the fuel pedal and u won’t roll any black coal,once u have boost then u can put the fuel to it…

2 hours ago, Mark T said:

That line going to nothing (if it is) is a huge manifold pressure leak.

I had an 1983 RD with a 300+, it had the tip turbine and air box,engine looked similar to this one but I’m certain that line was not on it..

This thread makes no sense  to me is he talking about the tip turbine or the main engine turbo?

I might be wrong but I don’t think your gonna see to much boost on a tip turbine,it basically just blows air thru the air box unrestricted unless it’s plugged up with dust,maybe that’s what your looking for,when to clean it out..

6 hours ago, other dog said:

Well, I considered it, but then I thought it might be best to leave it alone. A half inch over the full mark shouldn't be enough to hurt anything- I hope!

And I always wipe the dipstick off before I put it back, so that's lowering it too, a little bit at a time 🤣 

Ok my bad,I must of miss read,thought it was way over..carry on…

Are  you gonna drain some out,not good to be overfilled?