Fran3682821

Hey I got it straightened out with Mack Ste Foy I needed the first section of hose that's about 3 feet long it's going to cost $600 they understood I needed the second length of pipe that it attaches too that leads to the condenser all together the cost of the 2 sections comes to $ 1500. Iam paying 600 which is enough for a 3 ft hose

I have an Air Conditioning hose on my 2007 Mack Granite that leaves the bottom of the compressor and attaches to another pipe on the firewall. It leaves the bottom of the compressor. Anyways its leaking and I called Mack for a new one and its $1500 canadian a hose about 3 feet long. Would someone else on here know what i should do are there shops around that can make a hose with the right fittings to fit my truck or am i stuck with mack at $1500.

Must be that. We did the job friday and the mechanic that did the job couldnt finish because we were missing 2 bolts for the egr valve. So when the bolts arrived by bus Saturday I installed the last 2 bolts and attached the exhaust to the turbo and attached the heater lines for the cab. When i filled it up with antifreeze it started leakin out of the top of the pipe. Than when I removed the wedges and repositioned the pipe so it seemed more centered in than got worse and was leakin at the bottom of the pipe before the antifreeze had a chance to reach the top of the pipe.

Just installed a new EGR cooler along with EGR valve and new manifold gaskets. Never got to start the truck yet because the coolant pipe from the front of the egr cooler that leads up the the thermostat housing I think it is wont stop leaking. Pipe has new o rings on each end and leaking well without engine running. Wondering if anyone on here has had any problems like this?? Maybe just not lined up well blows my mind.

I have a 2007 CTP 713 Granite Dump truck and I need to install air lines to the back of the truck to hook up to my 3 axle tag trailer. Trying to find a good air system schematic for my truck that would explain the hook up. To make things even more complicated my truck wasn't built ready for a trailer. Single tractor release button on dash only. But it does have the "Bendix " lever on the dash for a trailer. When you pull it the truck brakes activate as it is. Anyways I made the order for the valves that I would need from Mack Ste Foy in Quebec to make this work. Tractor safety valve, double valve for the dash etc. But when I asked the guy if they had a schematic for my truck that would show what lines went where he said he had nothing available. Maybe I should talk to a different salesman there. Wanted to ask the question if anyone on here would know where I could find the air schematic for a truck like mine but trailer ready. Or have some good advice to share.

Its an American truck came from Georgia. Bought it from Lions auction in Kissimme Florida febuary 2010.

Thanks for the advice.Yeah I just ordered one spring. Will most likely order another one. The spring that broke was on the passenger side since I had the truck it always had a slight lean that way. None of the dealers around here in Quebec Canada keep any springs on hand. This spring had to be shipped from Chicago. Took 4 days delivery. Good thing I have a spare truck. These springs can't break too often for none of the dealers to keep them in stock.

I had my mack granite 2007 dump truck now for 4 years and never broke a rear spring until now. The main leaf second from bottom and the 2 above broke. I never took one apart yet. Was wondering besides the new sping 10 leaf camel back what else should I order. Such as rubber bushing or pins that should be changed with a new spring. u bolts look fine but because the main leaf is broken the front tandem axle seems to have moved ahead slightly about an inch. When I was looking at the rubber stopper block above the spring it seemed off center a little. Could this be a big problem or I can put it back in place when installing the new spring.

It happened to a friend of mine it was. A bad connection on the plug from the controller on the dash and the wire going to the transmission. It was where it plugged on the transmission.

Hey just saw your post. When I changed the turbo it came with the new actuator attached with it. My Mack dealer said I would just have to bolt it on. But its been since then that it began pushing out more black smoke. Lately seems like more. But maybe the actuator is out of adjustement.

Yeah. Those codes don't give us much of a hint to what's wrong unless like u said we have it plugged into a computer.

The truck always seems to be showing some code so I gave up. But now that it seems harder on fuel and is throwing black smoke out the pipe. Was wondering if any one knows what these codes are?

My 07 granite has been rolling coal like I posted before. Here are the codes that the dash is showing. 5002 M128 199 128 P098 M128 04 04F P5054 M140 01 04F I wrote them the same as they were in the dash.

My boost gauge maxs out at 40 psi and when the rpms are around 15 to 1600 the boost gauge goes up to 37 38 pounds of boost. I hear the turbo well in the exhaust. I put on a new turbo and. actuator 2 years ago because the actuator wasn't working right and Mack recomended to change the complete unit. Since the new turbo lots of boost on the gauge but that's when I started seeing more black smoke too.

What exzactly showed up when spraying cold water around the exhaust. What gave it away that the exhaust had a gasket gone when the water was sprayed on it?

If the egr or anything would there be some soot trails?

I do have a small leaking sound seems like its coming from under the passenger door. I was convinced that its the clamp around the flex pipe, but seems like I can't get rid of the leaking sound. My pickup had the same sound and it was a bolt broken off of the manifold, but the manifold seems fine with no sign of soot leaking out.

My 2007 Mack Granite with mp7 engine smokes black when under any strain. New air filter and fuel filters. Truck has good power and does not take any oil or antifeze. Another guy in my town has the same truck and his burns way cleaner than mine. Also has Allison 4500 RDS auto trans. Also when I start it up when its cold flakes of soot come out of the exhaust. I had this truck since 2010 it always would smoke some black smoke when under strain but not like now. Seems to be a little harder on fuel now also. Heard allot about EGR valves going bad could this be the cause ?

What do you mean by high cycle fatigue failure. Is that overreving.

I got the same motor in my truck MP7 the first thing you should do is take it to a dealer and get a bubble test done for the injection cups that is a common problem for these motors that causes the motor to loose some power and hard to start. But once what happened to me I had been to the mack dealer for a check up performed the bubble test and everything was fine. The following week my truck on occasion maybe twice a week would be hard to start like yours 3 to 4 tries to get it to start. I left it alone and then the following week a sensor for the fuel pressure installed in the filter housing coming out of the top of my fuel filter it resembles a rubber diaphram completely let go fuel began pouring out the top of the fuel filter housing. Once I changed that I never had a problem with the truck starting. I think air was getting in by a small crack in the rubber diaphram making air bubbles. I'am not a top expert but thats what happened to me.

The codes in the dash of my truck point to a problem with the actuator for the turbo. I have some troubleshooting to do to check the wiring, but I was told that on the 07 MP7 motors most of the time the trouble is with the actuator on the turbo and if thats the case I should change the complete turbo because it would not be far from letting go. Anybody got some advice or experience with this problem.

Thanks allot when I phone the Mack dealer here up in Canada they normally can't read these codes over the phone. They say because my Mack originated from the states that the fault codes are not the same as the codes in the Canadian Macks.( thats in their code books). Lots of times they have to follow a manuel and do the tests by hand with an electrical tester.

I have a 2007 CTP 713 Granite with a MP7 engine. My truck seems a bit lazy and sometimes the fuel pedal has no responce for a split second. I have 2 active fault codes in the dash #1 5027 M128 01 07F, #2 P098 M128 01 04F lightning bolt is always on also. The closest Mack dealer is a 5 hour drive from where I live. Would anyone know what these fault codes mean.

I was told I would have to remove the egr cooler and send it away to be properly cleaned. what exzactly do you mean ny changing the sensor module and pipe. Is that the complete EGR control valve.

I have 2007 Mack Granite CTP 713 with a MP7 engine. IT seems that I have soot building up in my EGR cooler on the engine. My truck is loosing some pulling power and I recently changed the boost sensor that sits in the egr cooler because it was coated with balck soot and not working properly. I also have a code in my dash popping up that when read by a computer says "not enough information". I believe this code is there because the egr cooler is dirty. My Question is what can cause an abnormal amount of soot to build up in my egr cooler and is this something that happens often on these MP7 motors.