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rsb502

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Posts posted by rsb502

  1. I would run the Mack 10/speed until it broke or I needed a clutch then go to a 13 or 18. If you don't need to split the low side get the 13 itll be cheaper, and remember going from a 310 to a Mack 13/18 your rpm will run about the same in top gear but an Eaton is geared lower on the top end so for ease of install and keeping gearing the same go with a mack 313 or 318.

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  2. http://www.dot.state.oh.us/Divisions/Operations/Maintenance/Permits/Pages/AXLEWEIGHTGUIDELINES.aspx they dont show quint's, call em or email ohio is different, the fed bridge law chart should suffice but I dont know cause IM not in Ohio (thank god) lol.

    http://www.ops.fhwa.dot.gov/freight/publications/brdg_frm_wghts/index.htm

    Hey didnt you order a new Granite? is that it in your profile pic? I never saw anything about it.

  3. Going from a mack 10 speed to an 8LL you will hate yourself quick, huge gear spacing from 7-8-9th. A 310m is a great vocational transmission with the multi speed reverse you have a gear for everything, a t318lr is a sweet trans too if you don't need the multi speed reverse. An Eaton 18 speed has nice gear steps and plenty of options for forward travel and is a much more forgiving transmission than a mack triple countershaft transmission.

  4. For long downgrades the locomotive's will go into dynamic brake mode and the engineer will make a brake set and if needed make another set but once you start you need to be pretty sure of where you are going and what your doing. We have a helper district in Cowan Tn, they have been living trains over the mountain there since the early 1900's, most trains need help up but hold their own down so the helpers cut off on the move when the lead locomotive crests the grade (which is in the middle of one of the oldest tunnels too) look up Cowan Tn pusher and Cowan Tn tunnel.

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