macattack

thanks i will check that out also.

thanks rob. i will check into this.

how can i tell if its the proper offset?

is there anything he could of screwed up on when changing to the front floats?

what should i look at as far as the tires being changed to 425 65r 22.5. i know the previous owner stated he had to adj so the wheels the tires would not rub when turned.

thanks for the info.

the truck seems to steer great from one extreme to the other.

hi.

thanks never thought of the pump. its a 96 mr 688s. my avatar is a pic of it.

thanks got to get them balanced. my fronts are brand new 425 65r 22.5 on alum rims. i know the prev owner had to install longer studs and spacers for the front rims. truck previously had some narrow front tires.

thanks

my steering wheel is nice and steady. drove nearly 70 miles today, the rear balance didnt seem to help. feels like someone is pushing on the cab from left to right. one of these days i will find him. lol

hey.

ok ive been battling this shimmy problem i have on my mr688s for close to 2 years. starting to drive me nutso. i dont operate it very much once twice per month. here is a brief description of my problem.

at about 35-40 mph i get a shimmy/wobble in my truck. above and below that its fine.

i replaced the following items.

rear bushings

insulator pads all.

tie rod ends

wheel bearings.

king pins

flex bar on front between spring hangers.

replaced and retorqued hanger bolts.

retorqued frame bolts.

balanced my front rears.

all u joints.

few other misc items i cant recall now.

still have the shimmy!!!.

my question is should i have my fronts balanced 425 65r 22.5? i was told if my steering wheel does not shake its not in the front. but the mr688s cabover truck front tires are basically behind the seat. so is it possible the tire shop could be wrong. the fronts are on aluminum rims, i dont see any weights on the front rims at all.

i had my front rears balanced with beads. tire shop told me it may take up to 100 miles before the bead bag breaks and balancing begins. is this correct?

also i noticed that the front timbren type rubbers on the front springs are in contact with the trucks frame without weight. i dont think this is correct. maybe my problem is the previous owner installed oversized rubbers causing the wobble through out the truck.

any ideas what else i should check? sorry for rambling on and on.

here in saskatchewan . 4 11r22.5 installed $1459.00 and 2 9r22.5 steers 700.00.

my last set of 425 65r 22.5 cost me 1600.00 for a pair.

damn.

thanks. gonna do a rebuild.

well took it apart today and noticed only one washer on one side none on the other. the previous owner put the washer on the wrong side of the tube. repaired and reinstalled nice and snug now.

thanks

thanks. gonna do a rebuild.

If I remember correctly that is just a length of 5/8" UNF all thread running through a schedule 80 or 120 pipe that has some really heavy washers welded to it. Same setup used on RD and DM chassis.

the washers are welded on the inside on both ends rite?

thanks guys. i think i am gonna reweld as is.

on my mack 688s mr i have a rod that goes between the front springs on the rear hangers. it is held by a nut on each end. what i noticed was it looks like its also welded on the inside. is this correct? looks to me the weld let go on each side. could i remove and just reweld the rod?

you can see the weld spots on the rod. dont know if i should reweld it or replace.

thanks

my front drive axle on the driver side seems to be in about an inch more than the rear. the mechanic changed the pads, but i dont think the mechanic changed the stabilizer blocks.

i think that should help out the alignment. what do you think?

has anybody added a transverse torque rod to their front drive axle. macks have just one on the rear drive axle, and i would like to add one to the front drive axle.

anybody know where i can get a complete rod with axle bracket?

I agree with Fifthwheel. Check powerdivider and driveshaft for wear

how would you go about checking the power divider?

well took the truck for a ride and about 90% of my wobble issue is fixed. i was told that my king pins need replacing and that should tighten things rite up. just thought i would post what was done. replaced bushings on one side rear. my inner bushing needed to be a larger id. now see what happens when my kings are replaced.

Ask him to use new hardware especially the lock nuts.

Rob

i will do that.

thanks

i am going thru the same thing as you. mine occurs around 35-45 mph. mine is wobble from left to right. had u joints replaced, tie rods, torque tube etc....

i am getting a trunnion rebush job done. the bushings were shot. also i am getting my front king pins replaced after my bushings are done.

one other thing you can check is your front spring hangers. when i took it in for a rebush i also noticed at that time some of my front spring hanger bolts are loose. mechanic is gonna torque everything back up after the rear trunion bushings are done.

i wll let you know how things turn out when i get my girl back.

good luck with yours.

thanks. i never got a chance to see the old bushings, but i was told they were in rough shape. the saddle itself looks like it might be ok. i was thinking about using a sleeve to slip over the tube and then put in new bushings. like a speedy sleeve. i happen to have a piece of tubing that fits nicely over the tube to take up the slack on the inside of the bushing.

by saddles do you mean the bushing housing? so installing a set of bushings with a smaller id is sort of an idea??

thanks gang. i drove down and took a look at it today expecting to see that flat spot. dam it really didnt look all bad. there is some play when you slide on the new bushing, but how snug should it really be. i thought why not have a bushing machined with the id a tad smaller and the od the same???

what you think

yah kind of thought that. any idea on how that rod comes out?