Jump to content

macattack

Bulldog
  • Posts

    276
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by macattack

  1. If you are talking about the centrifugal bypass filter on a mack then the answer is yes. I think it is luberfiner that makes a filter head that takes the by/pass filter 777 and it is a remote mount.But it will not do any better job than the centridge. The 777 was used to take place of the 750 luber finer. Cummins used this filter on the two filter screw on engine.

    ok thanks.

    how about the vent on top of this housing. can a guy just route the hose towards the ground?

  2. can a spin on filter be installed instead of a centrimax cartridge type filter? also the small vent tube on the top of the filter housing, can a guy just put a hose on it and direct it to ground?

    thanks

  3. The dryer has a heater. Im not sure its getting power. I have to change the heater about once a year. Its cold when I discover the problem.

    How does an evaporator work?

    evaporator goes between your dryer and your first tank. its a container where you fill with air line antifreeze. as the air is pumped through it sucks up the air line antifreeze as a mist and pumps to your tank. works great. cheap addition and a easy install. only about 60.00 dollars. i am in canada and on one of my trucks thats all i have i dont even have a dryer and i never froze up yet. just drain your tanks daily.

    also i think if you replace the rubber air hose coming off your compressor with a steel/copper line that would definatly help your freez problem. the line will stay warm that way.

  4. Crankcase breather coming off front of injection pump gear access cover. This is where you willl see your blowby if you have any. An e-7 in a conventional truck will have the breather tube coming off of the valve covers.

    thanks. so i dont have to worry about any fluids or liquid in the line if i replace it.

  5. It can be a number of things

    Worn pads, worn trunion bushings can cause the rears to walk. also bad control rods can add to them walking more. do the springs slide side to side? It could also be a bad end cap that has let a spring wear into the metal.

    The 2 control rods (one from the top of each diff housing to the trunion/crossmember) hold the diffs upright and control the torque input from the driveshafts.

    the 1 control rod on the rear rear diff is there to help hold the axels from walking. All the trucks I have seen had only one of these rods and it was on the rear rear axel. If this rod is worn out it will also cause the axels to walk. that rod was intended to help keep the axels in place on hard turns.

    Trent

    thanks trent.

    i will dig into it a little deeper and see whats going on. but i know for sure the one insulator pad has let go from its pin. good place to start.

    thanks again

  6. i noticed my front dr side rear tandem is in about 2 inches more than the others. i noticed my insulator pad on that side is worn, not sure if both upper and lower pads are worn but one for sure. would this cause the misalignment. i am gonna replace both pads. the other 3 tires seem fine.

    i will try to get a pic, but not too sure if it will show up.

    i also noticed i have only on trans torque rod, and its on the rear rear axle. should there be one on the front rear axle also? rite now there is a rod going inbetween the 2 axles and one from the rear axle to the frame.

  7. No sir, not at all. Left handed threaded studs were used on the left side of the truck only. Right handed threaded studs were used only on the right side of the truck. This is only with the "Budd" style cap and nut retaining system. All the hub pilot wheels are right hand thread no matter which side of the truck they are on.

    Rob

    thanks. so would you recomend back to factory specs. lh on the left side and rh on the rite side?

  8. If it's RH and LH threads then it must be the old style Budds.

    Dayton and Unimount are all RH thread.

    so do you think the other side would be the same. what i meant was on one side and one tire there were lh and rh studs. is that normal for the old style bud.

    i think it would proibably be a good idea to replace them to lh. what do you think

    thanks

  9. i need to replace the studs on my rear axle wheel. i had some tires changed out on my recently purchased mack truck, and i found a few are left hand thread and the others are right hand thread. also a couple were stripped probably my tire shop accidently screwed them up.

    my question is how hard is it to replace the wheel studs on the rear axle.

    thanks everybody

  10. Toward the rear of the water manifold there should be a valve that looks like a water faucet with a heater hose attached to it. This must be open to allow coolant to circulate thru the heater core. There is also a cable operated valve in the other heater hose, check to make sure that valve is also open.

    .

    Actually on that particular engine /truck combo the water valve is located just behind the thermostat housing near the front of the motor on top of the water manifold...

    thanks. i checked the water valve behind the housing and sure enough it was off.

    i began to get some heat but not very much. the lines to the core were somewhat warm , but not near hot enough. temp guage only showed about 140, i think the thermostat is too low or stuck. what do you guys think.

  11. i am not too familar with the mack e7 300 engine.

    what is the proper procedure for changing the fuel filters on the e7 300 engine. is there 2 filters? and which one is the primary filter?

    any other things i should look out for on these engines? its a 1996.

    also it looks like the valve cover gasket is leaking is this popular on these engines?

    any tips or tricks would be great.

    thanks everybody.

×
×
  • Create New...