BucketTrucker688

Well I will have to mention that to them. I deal with Allentown Mack (trans edge)...you would think they would know that. Would that change over request then be implemented to my vin for future parts orders?

I just swapped from spoke to hub pilot hubs on a rd688s with 44k axles. They were h1006 I believe gunite hubs I installed and I was told by a mack guru a 3402 brake drum is what I was going to need but the 3402 drum seems to leave about 1/8th inch of brake shoe outside the drum? I can't see this being a big issue other than it leaving a lip on the brake shoe as it wears. Is it OK to run it like this? Mack wasn't able to help me out much with what I exactly need brake wise. It's a 7" shoe on there now, should I run a 6.75" shoe rather than a 7? if anyone knows what drum I really need I'd love to know. Thank you to who ever can help

I am tried of my spoke hubs and it seems like they are getting tired of me as I had a drive hub spoke ear snap off and leave me stranded and I have another that seems like the ears ( where the wheel wedges up to ) are getting wore and thin and I can't keep the inside wheel from spinning to the stops on the wheel. Iv always found spokes to be a headache so it time to swap them. Iv found all the parts I need to swap my drive hubs but my Watson chalin lift axle and steer hubs I think will be a little more difficult. It's a 20k steer axle...what will I need to swap this...just the hub, drum and seal? I found a 20k whole front axle with hub pilot hubs but I'm not sure if they will work with my current axle. If any one has done the steer or lift axle hub swap can you share the experience doing so. I'm looking to go to a 315 steer tire

No amps that I know of or ever found

When I turn the volume up to listen to music the power to the whole head unit shuts off for about a second then it starts back up and will keep shutting off and on until you turn down the volume...I thought it was the head unit its self so I changed it and put a decent Kenwood in and it still does it. Re wired to power it directly to the power junction on the firewall and still does it...I'm not very good with stereo systems. Could this be the speakers or speaker wires? That's my next step.

Stupid question...would the power divider stuck engaged cause even a slight shock load to cause the ring gear to fail?

I'm looking to do the same thing if there's any others around northeast, pa

I was told they use oem parts but yet I recall seeing PAI bearings. So what's the chances of the gear being PAI. never actually looked at it before I sent it back and I can't make it out in my pictures I took as what the numbers and markings are on it.

Yeah they are talking about shock load but the mack 400 specific failure analysis guide line sheet they sent me described it as a "overload" and that's what they say they follow.

Well my thoughts were a universal should of went before any damage to the ring gear occurred. Obviously The power hits the universal before the diff. And my universals have I don't even know how many miles on them as they were what were on the unit when I purchased the truck 6 years ago but still tight.

Interesting....this should be fun then....

Last year I purchased and installed a reman 4.64 ratio front differential from Camerota Truck Parts who rebuilt the rear with a 1 year unlimited mile warranty. At day 362 of the 365 day warranty and 24k miles I was decelerating off the interstate with a approx. 5 ton load of mulch on and a driveline vibration and gear lash noise appeared. I pulled over and started to investigate...pulled the magnetic plug off the front rears side cover and found metal shavings stuck to it...got it home (about 10 mi from the interstate), removed the side cover and the ring gear was obliverated. So I pulled the whole carrier and dropped a new one in and sent the damaged one back for warranty. They got back to me yesterday and said they will not warranty the failure and the type of damage was due to overload. I honestly feel there was never any overload. This is my only truck and there hasn't been a single person other than myself behind the wheel of this truck in over 6 years. I baby this truck and do not ever ram and jam as I'm the one that pays for and has to fix the damage. In the past year 90% of my work has been asphalt hauling where i rarely leave the blacktop surface and the other 10% being misc stone and soil loads, not very hard on the truck work and nothing iv done should of put any overload enough to destroy a rear. Any opinion on if this is a fight worth battling with them? They said they will refund me for the rear all but the $800 ring and pinion they have to replace and will not reimburse any of the labor. Now if there was an overload would the only damaged part be the ring gear or was this a weak gear that let loose 3 days before Camerota Truck Parts wanted it to?

Changed the stoplight switch on the firewall inside the engine compartment, all works fine now

When the brake pedal is applied at a normal sitting at a stop light pressure the brake lights do not come on but when you really put some a$$ into pushing the pedal they come on but come on weak..they are all led brake lights and when the parking brakes are applied the brake lamps come on normal brightness as they should. So what I'm getting at is where do I start looking? Truck is a 1991 Rd...

i have heard a few different ways to service the mack rears,,,whats the proper way to do so on a rd tri-axle dump 4.64 gears...i just replaced the forward drive carrier and i have heard not to fill the top of the axle with oil that it gets thrown up to the top from the bottom with a sling gear...there would be a point then where this runs dry before the oil is slung up there...no? also is it ok to put the power divider in while moving or is it better to to this while completly stopped

My wipers quit on my 91 Rd...there is power going to 1 of the 4 wires when the switch and ignition is on...I have no washer either...this happened once before but if fixed its self but now it seems done for. There's no label for a fuse for wipers in the glove box so I don't know where to check

What is the proper break in procedure for a reman front rear. Just got done installing and filling with oil

I have had the one on there now professionally welded and it still leaks

Mechanical e7 needs a new oil pan. It has a hairline crack that seems to keep getting worse. Is there any aftermarket out there as a OEM alternative? A pan from mack is rediculously expensive.

i just replaced the (mechanical) speedometer in my 91 rd688s about 2 years ago...46000 ago exactly. the pin likes to jump with in about a 15mph window of what actual speed id and it also makes a grinding type noise...does this mean its going to go out on me again and i have to start back again at 0 mi? when i changed the speeodmeter i also changed the cable...also i run 11r24.5 tires which adapter am i suppose to use for it to get the correct reading?

I may have to because i cannot find one

i just installed in december a new tach cable on my 91 rd688s / e7..its been leaving a drip of oil here and there so i tightened the cable nut on the front of the motor and it didnt stop the drip. i went to look at it again and realized the nut was tight and the cable was able to pull right out. i then noticed the new tach cable i installed in december had a piece of sh!t plastic flared end that i think broke from vibration and had cracks in the bends of the cable. this cable from mack costs $84.00 and i would really rather not have to go through a few of these cables a year. the original cable i took off split and was leaking oil so i changed it out for a new one never realizing the new cable had a plastic flare rather than the metal on of the original. does anyone know if theres a different part number for one with metal end?

mack gave me a part number for the hood from my vin. i will have to post it when i get it here infront of my computer to se if it rings a bell to anyone if its the right one...allentown mack says its not available but they gave me a price of $3+k for a shell....id really like to find a good used one with all the extra parts and pieces already on it

no its not set back...iv also been told its a Canadian style? is that possible