BucketTrucker688

yeah it seems like an air flow issue. i have owned the truck and worked it nearly daily since 09 and have never had this portion of the truck apart yet. is it adviseable to try and spray coil cleaner on the coils and rince it with a pump sprayer? thats what i ended up doing with my western star but that set up i could get to both sides of the heater core.

My 91 rd688s windshield fogs up severely in snow plowing conditions. I feel that the heater core and ac evaporator should probably be cleaned, is this something possible to do without removing either of them from the dash? I feel like I'm not getting enough airflow to the windshield to keep it thawed. Any tips? Thank you

Copy, thank you!

Can anyone tell me what pressure the radiator cap psi needs to be? It's a 1991 E7 350. Thanks

I'm at the same point. The fitting rounded off and there's such minimal room to work I think I'm to the point of needing to take the intake manifold off the back. Im worried to cut the hose like some suggested and risk metal filings fall into the oil galley while trying to remove the damaged firing, it does look like a 2 piece fitting but I'm still going to have a issue getting the 2nd piece off that threads into the filter housing.

Shook it down, found the wheel bearing was loose on the driver's side, we will see if that fixes it.

I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong.

I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong.

Welp, found a crack. Guess I better call axle surgeons. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I just took it apart again and it looks like the seal is dry from the outside and the underside of the axle tube (to the inside of the spindle) is leaking directly under the brake shoes. Is there a fix to this or does the whole axle housing need to be replaced? It doesn't appear to be cracked but it's very wet all on the bottom of the tube. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

One of the parts stores around here are telling me to use a scottseal xl +. No special tools needed to install and will seal better than a stemco grit guard. Any input? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Just cleaned the vent, I actually changed the vents over to a Spicer vent with the preformed rubber tube. I donth think there's a spacer anywhere. Unless your talking about the bearing race? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

By eye the bearing wear seems to be ok, it's just where the seal rides seems to be pitted. I cleaned it up the best I could with some Emory paper and brake cleaner then a thin coat of some permatex gear lube silicone. And it still appears to be leaking, the hub looks fine and spindle look fine crack wise I was just thinking there's got to be a wear sleeve out there somewhere that should slide over the pitted part and leave me with a fresh new surface to seal to. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

No I only had skf scotseals. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I have a hub on my RD with 44k drive axles that will not seal. The spindle where the hub seal rides is semi pitted and I think is a major factor, does anyone make a wear sleeve and corresponding hub seal to renew the surface? Part numbers would be greatly appreciated if there is such a part for this. Allentown mack was no help to me, could not answer the question. Thank you

I have 1000 miles and about 2 months time on a reman caterpillar oil cooler and only one end of the rubber was deteriorated and blown completely out. What would cause this? Would you consider this defective? I never had any level increase in the radiator as if I was gaining fuel dilution. There was never any smell of fuel in the coolant. The system was flushed very thoroughly many times with a fleetguard flush detergent after the old cooler went bad then even in that time frame I had another hose that I missed changing ( the little 4" rubber hose to feed the air compressor) blow out and I had to re fill with about 7 gallons of fresh coolant there. So now Im sitting here wondering why in the hell did this new cooler fail. I was running rotella elc coolant and AMSOIL full synthetic 15w-40 diesel marine engine oil. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah, my thoughts too. Thanks Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thank you gentlemen, yeah it's a RW700..it has the 400 Cummins and a 13 speed. I still don't know of axles and suspension yet. Or even if there's enough frame. I'd love to add a lift axle and a 16' body. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Is there such a thing as a heavy single frame on a superliner? I found a RW700 and it supposedly has a "heavy single frame". I'd love to put a dump body on this truck and I'd love to not deal with a double frames inevitable spread but am worried it wouldn't be a good idea for a dump. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Turned out to simply be the throttle switch at the pump...it was working fine at low rpm bit for whatever reason the higher rpms would cut it out. Replaced it and all is fine after months of misc parts and wires replaced. Oh well...it works now. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I have the mechanical Bosch pump just replaced the solenoids and rocker assemblies and it is still intermittent starting now at 1250 and up rpm. I cannot find any relay there's a circuit breaker for the engine brake but cannot locate a relay ( the spot for it is blank). Seems to be fine before 1200-1300 rpm.

I'm sure this topic is on here some where but I was unable to easily find it. Can a mechanical E7-350 with a dynatard be converted to a Jacobs setup? I'm finding the dynatard is becoming extremely hard to find new parts for.

Dumb question and I'll ask Allentown mack tomorrow but when you buy a reman rocker arm from cat it comes with everything as a assembly, is it the same way with mack or do they sell it all a individual parts???

I don't think I know which guide your referring to ... sorry

Thank you[emoji106]