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doe70

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Posts posted by doe70

  1. Hi, where is it rusty? the flintstone cab in the pics is not getting used, Jeff, Hi Jeff! :) got all the dash out of that cab, so the cab is just sitting there waiting for a home. I am using the later cab on my flintstone.

    regards Grant

    thanks again for info fellas. i can see underneath my dash that its plated and bolted to what looks like whats left of the original. this cabs got rust everywhere, roof gutter, above doors and A pillars and below in same. i know anything can be cut out and rebuilt but is going to be a big job. called Moores wrecking in qld yest they have a flintstone tipper i believe in reasonable nick but theyre unsure how theyre going to sell it. ive still got a bit of work left on B then ill tackle this one. i just thought it would be more oringinal with flat dash, must admit was better for driving with this one but wont be using it that much in future. Also where can i get info on these flintstones, data, measurements, what chassis/ motors etc. Im in south aus for what its worth.

    cheers ellis

  2. Hi Ellis,

    R611RT, as Superdog said, ENDT673C, 250BHP, Quad trans and RAD5291 rear axle.

    Its been converted to tandem, it was delivered in late 67.

    Jeff.

    no probs, must have been done early as spoke with second owner from 1974 and was bogie when he bought it, is long chassis so can only think they altered it in some way, looks to be original but who knows. Where do you find any and all info re these models?

    thanks again Jeff

  3. Hello, there about 4inches longer, thats about the only difference I think? the steel dash cab was shorter with small hand rails and the plastic dash cab was longer with long hand rails, all rust repair sections are available for plastic dash cabs.

    regards Grant

    Thanks fellas, im up with the b models but obviously dont as much re flintstones. ive checked out those pics, does look to be a noticable difference. The cab ive got now measures 37/8" from back cab to seal or 43/4" from back to complete edge including the seal, if you could let me know exactly what one it is, would be good. where can i get the rust replacement panels etc and i guess next thing is that theyre going to cost a mint.

    cheers ellis

  4. Hi, same here in oz, the 1973 cab was longer to, and had a long grab handle to climb up to door, i would imagine it would be a time consumeing exercise to convert back to a steel dash.

    Grant

    Im guessing your both right, looks like its had a later model cab put on at some stage, certainly wasnt for rust problem as this ones riddled with it. When you say cab is longer - how much longer and any other differences? has short steel handles like the b model at present.

    ellis

  5. post-1825-127236534964_thumb.jpg I have a 237 and the s/n starts... ENDT675XXXXX

    Now im really not sure, i steam cleaned engine, is mostly a silver colour, same as my C motor which i know came from a service workshop in early 70's. theres nothing on valve covers to state either thermo or maxi. granted eng no starts with 673C but could this C block have been used to build it into a 675/237? as obviously its a rebuilt engine. i cant see any other way of telling, i do think it drives with a greater power band than the C.

    thanks for info so far

  6. I never have paid munch attention to engine serial #'s,but I'd bet money that's not a 237,but a 250.

    I wont argue with you on that, but the fella i bought it off said it was a 237, has gold/copper paint on it here and there and i have an older C motor in the B, looks similar but not the same, that one's eng no is 2380B5358B.

    id be glad to hear any other ideas on how to tell.

    cheers

  7. gday, have just looked at engine number, no problems finding it and is clear except whether one is a G or number, guess what im wondering - do the 237 no's generally have a letter in them. mine is 673C-9G1639. thought it was a 6 but sure its not? any info appreciated.

    cheers

  8. Hi just an update to firstly say thanks to rowdyrebel and gambi80 for their input, helped a lot. i went up this morning in pissing down rain, hooked two air lines together and kept ute far back so noise wasnt a problem, still dumped 110psi in under a minute and half, but found it was in fact a diaphram gone in one of rears, just held rubber supply hose together and put duct tape around it few times to pinch it off. then recharged system no probs, drove home good as gold. ill get around to pulling it out and looking at it soon.

    thanks again

    ellis

  9. howdy,

    just did a long trip in early r600, drained oil after first 9 hrs but then drove another 10 and no probs. today i drove 10km and rear brakes started locking on as i was starting off, are now totally locked on, ive got full tank air in starter tank but main reseviour has none. thought it was compressor dead so hooked up mobile comp in back of ute with genset, guage shows pressure rising for about a minute then drops again. ive tried blanking off comp line and acc air lines but same happens - i cant see or hear any major leaks!

    have i just got oil into maxi valves? but then why no air pressure. Whats the best thing i can do, truck is on side of road still. is there an easy way to release brakes manually?

    all info would be appreciated.

    cheers ellis

  10. Gday, firstly does anyone know what the chassis no R611RT3311 would be for, as in what set up it left the factory and what year it would be. definately a flintsone model, am guessing originally it had a C motor/quad set up.

    secondly what model number and year gearbox (mack) had a single stick ten speed - is set up in standard 5 pattern with air actuated R - N - L - D. is reverse in all gears, neutral, low and direct? - does that mean no overdrive? not sure but any and all info would be appreciated.

    cheers ellis

  11. Gday, about to paint my truck, its colour has been a light green from at least 1962, but faded, rusted of course. Does anyone have a genuine photo or info on mack light green between 58' - 60'. Ive looked on net and plenty of green b models but no idea what their true colour is. I guess i could always take a colour chip from mine in some place where its not too faded but would like to keep it in an original mack colour. Any info would be greatly appreciated, especially if someone out there has painted theirs in that colour.

    cheers.

  12. Hi, my b613 has badly torn brown seats in it, ive noticed pics of same models with green and even black seats. Was there a set colour as per interior paint or did it change over the years? Were they done originally in leather or vinyl? Im wanting to reupholster soon and would like to keep it as standard as possible. Any info would be appreciated.

    cheers..

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