doe70

Gday,

Ive got the heads off my C motor and have ordered standard gaskets but looking at how much the cylinder liners sit proud of block (about .050") cant see how ill get much compression on gasket when bolted down. Heads have small shallow grooves cut into them but still doesnt look right? What is the norm, and what do the fire-ring heads look like? any ideas? i dont want to bolt them down if wrong gasket...

cheers ellis

yep thought of that, talked to the old mechanic who worked on it in the 80's - is orig gasket set up. thanks for the input though. a complete set of head and associated gaskets from mack is around $475 aust, they dont give em away do they.

cheers

have pressure building up in radiator, hoping its just the gasket not head at fault.

cheers ellis

Gday, about to renew head gaskets on an endt673 c motor, what else would i need to order in to speed job up, any other gaskets/seals or can get by with whats there generally? and i guess is job pretty straight forward? any tips..

cheers ellis

sorry for delayed reply Rob, been flat out, the rear end is 8.24 and running 10.00/20 tyres. hope this helps, dont bust a gut getting to this mob, but certainly appreciate if you could find out if they stock one, would be one less problem. im just about to try and rego the b model and now think that its got a blown head gasket or even a cracked head, this motor doesnt have the fire rings - gave her a decent run and building pressure in radiator, so more work to do, never ends.

all the best ellis

Now youve got me, yes have everything bar the working shaft, i have got one - but someone has ground the gear off it... why i cant fathom. The "pencil gear" slides in at 90degrees to tail shaft and on a slight downward angle, is held in with small cover plate with two 1/2" bolts, speedo cable then fits onto exposed end. not sure what else i can say as im not full bottle with these things. im not even sure if straight or helical cut gear is on it. ive tried to locate one in aust but no agencies still carry such old spicer parts and none to be found in wreckers, would be one or two floating around the country but in someones shed or being used in complete g/box.

thanks again for your help, whilst i can get by without the speedo - would sure be better to have it working.

cheers ellis

That was bloody quick, its a 1972 spicer 4 speed joey, model no 8341D, bom is 300786-4. The shaft is a SW no 448909. Its 6" long, 3/8" & 9/16" diam.

thanks

hi cant help with your part but am interested in what the store that rob uses is, im chasing a SW speedo drive shaft and wondered if they might have one???

cheers

On a B series if you are referring to a cab mount just inside where the cowl panel meets the floor there will be a hole which is typically covered by a rubber plug. You will hold the nut with a box end wrench and zip the bolt out using a socket wrench from inside the cab.

Rob

Thanks Rob, thats the fella im after, dont recall any rubber plug but its been a while, will tackle job as soon as time permits.

thanks again

ellis

Gday, one of my front (behind front wheel) rubber mounts/cushions has died and i need to replace it, but cant remember where the head of the bolt going thru them comes out. is it under a plate in floor of cab? The bolt is just rattling around at moment. cant see any access via engine bay. Any input welcome, might save me cutting sound deadner out for nothing.

cheers

Hi Ellis, Are you getting any oil in your air tanks, it does sound slow but the govneror may be playing up, holding the unloader valve open or the unloader maybe leaking Gearbox

ive replaced main tank with another and is still clean, very little to notice in any but havnt done any miles so to speak as yet, awaiting rego inspection, ill wait till then and put some kms on it and see how clean tanks are.

cheers ellis

thanks fellas, shoulda got off my arse and had a decent look in first place, found it directly under drivers side (RHS) in frame rail as mentioned.

cheers

gday, i havnt had any problems with it as yet but wondering what the desired compression ratio is on b model, after starting - takes one minute to build to 30psi, then second minute is at 60psi and after 3 mins is about 88-92psi. is this about right or maybe a tad slow? thought id seen the build up rate somewhere, wondering if needed to think of new comp down the track.

cheers ellis

gday, i looked for switch near the brake valve itself but cant find it. is it typically in one location on the b's, mines a b613. any info would be appreciated, also any pics if available.

cheers ellis

Not bad at all. Can you explain exactly what a Flintstone is?

Yeah give it a go, the early R models with the steel butterfly bonnets looked completely different to the later more modern plastic front ends. someone must of come up with the nickname (australia only maybe) to differentiate between the later models. Is more basic/rugged looking - guessing similar to how the cartoon "the flintstones" portrayed things, more prehistoric maybe? hope that helps, sure theres someone else out there with a slant on it.

cheers ellis

Nice looking rig. A little elbow grease, and you're good to go. Any more pics/specs

Yeah it looks ok, or did, is stripped down fair bit now - dog box & aircond is off. was pulling road trains up till last yr, was used in northern aust mostly then worked its way down south. Had 73' dash put in it in mid 70's as well as leather lining etc to modernize it i guess. The quadbox was taken out and replaced with a D1070 ten speed, is easier to drive but will put quad back in soon. Also had chassis lengthened in 70's, has hydraulics and long range tanks. Motor is very good, has power steering (leaking). Plenty of rust in cabin but doable. Will repaint in yellow.

cheers ellis

Name: Mack R600 Flintstone (1967)

Date Added: 09 September 2010 - 07:37 PM

Owner: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/user/4534-ellis/'>ellis

Short Description:

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/335-mack-r600-flintstone/'>View Vehicle

Thanks for the informative replies, just what i was after. In my case its not cost effective to put on the 11 x 22.5 tyres, if i was using truck commercially i would, and got the 10.00x20 tyres very cheap. Seems not only are the old macks a lot cheaper in usa but parts/service as well. I will pay to get them fitted now, not worth the risk as youve mentioned, cheapest price ive managed to get here is $60 tyre-dismount/mount, but still be the better option. thanks again for great replies.

cheers ellis

Gday, i know it can be a difficult thing to answer but how hard is it to change old for new tyres - 10.00 x 20. Is it bloody hard or just takes a fair bit of time. ive got some tyres (rags) to fit and tyre companies want a fortune just to fit em, as they only want to sell new ones. any input would be appreciated, ive changed car and mower tyres only.

ta ellis

Hey Everyone, I just had a 1962 B61 Mack given to me. It belonged to my wife's uncle and he gave it to her father who in return decided i should have it. So we are now starting the process of getting as much info as we can. I am sure we will be asking alot of questions over time. If anyone has great spots for research it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Gday, I reckon this site's a good place for finding info on the B models, look in the specific area and youll find most things youll need. I havnt found any books that offer all that much on em, apart from that any fellas who live near you that may restore them, always good to learn off. Good luck with it and if you find any other sites with info let us know.

cheers ellis

hey guys are there poeple here how are going to the 2010 reunion in alice springs from august the 25th to the 31th of august we will be there from the 26th it must be the best show in australia.has anybody have some info about the show.for those thad go we hope to meet you there greetings from the netherlands Rene

Gday Rene, yeah it sounds ok, i was planing to take my b up but few hassles to sort out before can get it rego'd, and old r model is half stripped down so guess ill be driving the ute up, will keep an eye out for future references to it. hope to meet up.

cheers ellis

Were all b model cab interiors green from the factory or were there exceptions?

Hi, cant add anything intelligent to paint query, but saw you had a b613s is its serial no3994? as ive also got one 1960, its serial no is 4326. thought they must be built fairly close together.

cheers ellis

Hello, here is another pic. there from a book from 1977 but it will give you an idea of how the parts are laid out.

Hi, thanks Grant. Ill give him a call, sounds good and diagrams give a good idea what i need to order.

take it easy

ellis

Hi, I am in WA, Jeff will have all that info Im sure. your welcom to this cab, but shipping be atleast 500 I think? where in SA are you? theres a guy in Grafton SA, I think thats where he said??? has some bits, he was on ebay a bit. new panels can be bought thru mack, there is a pic of a front side section in my pics, that was 450.00 the lower sill is around 220.00, roof is 1000,00, gutter parts range from 200 to 800.00 an doors non gen out of the USA for about 300 each. another cab will be easier

regards Grant

Gday Grant, im an hr or so south of Adelaide. only grafton i know is in nsw, but not 100%sure if theres another. local wrecker has a 600 but is just as stuffed, i got air tank and a xmember off it yr or so back but rest is near usless, having said that im not sure about what dash its got?? i guess trouble with getting your old one over is its probably in same state as mine. ill try local mack dealer for panels but whenever ive gone there for say a radiator hose for C motor they scratch around for a while to find old book then someone to make sense of it, i think they reckon a 96' model is old. will try em anyway but first will cut out areas and see where and how bad it really is.

once again thanks for info, dont know if youve done any more to yours but put some pics on if you have, would be good to see.

cheers ellis

Hi Ellis, yes that is an eng#. It looks like it is an ENDT673C I would guess. Sometimes I've

seen the letters start down the side and not completely on top of deck.

It could be just T or TB 673 C depending on the age of the block, or it could be just what you see.

The #'s go in a sequence of 1A####, thru to Z, 2A####, 2B#### thru to Z then they go

3A####, 3B#### thru to Z and so on. Yours being 9G1639.

You have a 1960 B61T, so do I, June 60, B61T 34031.

Regards Jeff.

Gday Jeff, thanks for that - expains the G in it. definately just starts 673C, nothing prior, is clear to read. ive got a march 1960, delivered july 60 B613. Still not completed, hope to have it regod by june/july, i hear their tough on getting trucks thru pits here, so time will tell. again thanks for your help in both forums. still like to know if theres some site or place i can get any relevant info on these early flintstones.

cheers ellis