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doe70

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Posts posted by doe70

  1. Ive soaked it with crc on and off for two days, i dont have an air hammer and in fact am not sure what one is, have heard of them but. i borrowed a ball wedge from local mech but was a fraction too small. have tried belting arm from all angles/sides but without luck. the ram behind axle, when i tried to remove nut from ball - broke two of my half inch drives, i gave up and took whole bracket off instead. ill resoak again o/n and have round 12 with it - see if it gives in morning. i know heats a no no but am running out of puff.

    cheers

  2. gday, does anyone have any unique ideas on how to get a ball joint to release from steering arm. im trying to take out power steering front ram but cannot get this thing to release, tried bashing with two hammers, supporting arm with jack and hitting down onto pin/nut, didnt want to but might need heat. any tricks of trade appreciated.

    cheers ellis

  3. gday, guessing that might be one of the reasons they sold it, definately sounds like govener is hunting, if pump ok, might not be too dear to fix, and imagine theres a fair few old pump/goveners floating about over there might just swap it out for 40hrs yr.

    cheers

  4. gday, ive had problems starting my 673c when left for a few days or more, might take few tanks of air to get her going then no problems. Am guessing its a leak in the return fuel lines - they look ok but when i pump the hand plunger i get diesel leaking out around the plunger itself... is that normal or could that be the cause of air leak?

    next question if it is that, how much do they sell for from mack dealers?

    any input would be appreciated, i dont want to change out all the lines then have to replace hand plunger.

    cheers ellis

  5. Gday fellas, think you were all pretty much right, mine has the stepped liner and meant to have firerings, mack mechanic said it must have been altered from original as the c motors came out without fire-ring set up - and motor was a service unit put in at later stage. have the right gaskets as said from a 237, they are a lot cheaper but now mack saying as its taken longer than two wks to sort out & might not be able to refund the difference as they dont sell them all too often, reckons last time he sold one here was 2002.. time will tell but at least i can go ahead and bolt her back together, im aiming to use hylomar (not sure of spelling) and same mech said should put some loctite 515 around water galleys as they had one leak yrs ago and thats what they do now? any ideas on that, guess if theyre doing it...

    cheers ellis

  6. thanks for input, still not 100% sure what im looking at, mine is same as middle pic, beaded i guess and measures

    0.004 - 0.006 from flat deck (number 2.) to (number 3.) The gaskets ive got are fel-pro brand no 8197C for end673, end673T, end711, endL711 (20 stud holes for 5/8" diam studs. But as said they dont have a separate fire-ring, and i pulled rings off my old block? mack again tell me ive got the right gaskets?? any further input appreciated.

    cheers ellis

  7. the old ones were an orange hard fibre material type gasket and there were rings left stuck around lip of liners on block. i went back to mack and they said the gaskets ive now got are the only ones showing up for the c motor, that the rings are part of the gasket???? gaskets look like theyd work but is more confusing than anything else ive worked on..

    ellis

  8. Gday Larry, the new ones are about 1/16" thick, maybe a tad under, they consist of two layers of copper. the old ones were material not copper. im going to have a crack at putting heads back on later in week if all goes to plan.

    cheers

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