Jump to content

wyodog

Bulldog
  • Posts

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by wyodog

  1. Restored this B model mack back in 2015. Driven a handful of times.

    Just had it serviced this last year. Does need rear tires (weather checked)

    Started as a B-53 Original END-672
    Sleeper from Peterbilt
    extended the frame, and rear end from a 1972 GMC Kodiak
    Many little upgrades, all-new rear brakes
    Quadruplex with 2 speed rear end.


    Always starts right up. Please let me know if you have any questions. Good looking unique truck.

    I am asking 14K for it. But open to offers.

    Mack-1.jpg

    Mack-4.jpg

    Mack-5.jpg

    • Like 2
  2.  

    1998 DT466 complete, good used, not a core. Bought this frame cut all wired running motor with the intent of putting into my B. I've decided to go a different way.

    Engine is complete, wiring, turbo, radiator, everything. See link below to see the motor running before it was shipped to me. 

    https://youtu.be/7MYACBMUA8k

    If you're in the Colorado / Wyoming Area I can look to help deliver.

    IMG_4389.JPG

    IMG_4390.JPG

    IMG_4391.JPG

  3. So let me be a bit more clear on the sleeving that was done. The steering input shaft into the box, the shaft itself had a pretty good groove on the sealing service. So where the bearing/seal was a grove was worn into the shaft, so I was able to just pull out the top section of the box and remove the input shaft. I had my machine shop lathe down the grove and we made a sleeve to ture up where the sealing surface was.

    So i don't disagree that the assemble / disassembly is part of the problem. To remove the top section, you have to remove the top poppet adjustment screw. Once I reassembled everything I have never been able to get the poppet screws/adjustments correct. I have been fighting this problem for years and have tried many combinations of valve adjustments, etc.

  4. Hey Tom --

    Good catch on the B55. This is my mistake, and I keep making the typo everywhere. The Truck is a Mak B-53. The reason I keep doing the typo of B-55 is that was the truck number from the concrete company. B-55 is just stuck in my head cause all the paperwork, the original numbering on the truck was B-55. Sorry for the confusion there. I now see I made the same typo in my profile as well....

    --Josh

  5. Correct, the box that is in, we tried pulling out. But it looks like the previous owners (A cement company here in Northern CO) might have put in a steering box that was out of an R model. When trying to drop it from the frame, it hits the engine block. We would have to lift and shift the engine out to pull the box. We tried doing this a while back ago, and when we realized what it was really going to take we just bolted everything back in place.

  6. Hello! I haven't posted anything in a very long time. A few reasons for that but the short story is I have been struggling with my truck in a few ways, and she is not getting driven. As you know, when things sit, they start to deteriorate, and my truck is no exception.

    One of the biggest reasons I have not been driving my truck is the steering. I have problems with the poppets, and I am either way to stupid to figure out to adjust them correctly, or there is more going on with my steering box then I know. In short, I can't turn left, unless Popeye is driving. She fights me the entire turn and more often than not on tight turns off the road I go.

    The box on this truck is an older Sheppard box which I can't find any parts for anymore. Even after working with the nice people at Sheppard left me with few options. For me to even go down the road of rebuilding this box, means pulling the engine. The truck has the original END673. If I am going to go through the hassle of doing all of this, My thought would be to get a school bus with a DT466 and an Alison and just do a full swap along with re-doing the steering to something more modern and serviceable.

    When I restored the truck originally the steering box we knew had some issues. We pulled the worm gear out and have to sleeve it, and re-do the top seals. I remember before we tore the truck down, the steering while super leaky, had no issues steering. But pulling that worm gear/top section. It just never was right after that (doesn't leak anymore though...).

    A lot of money, and effort into something cause I can figure out poppets right... Now I know a full swap isn't required, but hard to want to put that END673 back in her. Even if I could pick up a 237 maxidyne with a turbo, would be a good move.

    But this all leads me to the truck has sat for the last two years, and in the last 4, I have maybe put 15 miles on her. I am at the crossroads of either needing to get her running to where she is truly roadworthy, or I need to find her a new home... I got her fired this weekend, battery charged, and running so I could pull her into the new shelter. Built a 30x30 shelter to where I have at least gotten her out of the sun, hail, etc. At least when pulling her into the new parking spot, it was a right-hand turn... :-)

    IMG_4166.JPG

    IMG_4168.JPG

  7. Hello!

    I am need of some wiper parts for my B model. What I need is the wiper mounts (wiper pivot assembly) that mount on the cab. So far all I have found are the modern ones, need a right and left on for my B. I have a good motor, and linkage, just need the pivot assemblies.

    Thanks!

    Here is a picture of the modern versions, but give you a idea of what I am looking for.

    post-4432-0-86929100-1437257072_thumb.jp

  8. felicello122 - Thanks! These seats came out of a mid 90's GMC Yukon. They worked great cause they have the seat belt built into them. They are a powered seat but I am not going to wire them. For them to fit they need to be all the way back pressed up against the cab. But they fit pretty well.

    Freightrain - I ended up ordering the headliner through Watts. Wasn't excited about the price, and after over-sized shipping cost. It's a cardboard based headliner. When I tried to installed it, I was messing it up. I have the sleeper on my truck, so the headliner needed to be trimed. Found a local guy who did a good job for a good price and fixed my goof up and got the rest installed. Wish I could take credit for the headliner but interior is just not my thing. While it did come out nice, and I am happy with it. If I have to replace it down the road, I will find someone local who can make one.

  9. Hey Guys --

    So I am approaching the end of my truck build, and the truck has not been driven very much over the last 5 years as I have built her back up. I have now gotten to the point of having her around the block a couple of times just to shake things down and a couple of things have come up that I wanted to get some input on. This is my first Mack and so just wanted to throw these questions out to be better safe then broken down...

    1. The injector jump, right at where the injector lines connect to the pump, very black oil is starting to come out. The engine oil is definitely not as black as what is leaking out, engine oil is actually very clean. I have made sure things are tight and they are. It is only leaking from one of the injector outputs .Is this cause for concern, I sure it is, guess just how big of concern?

    2. Fuel primer. The manual pump leaks fuel pretty good. Anyone have any suggestion on where to get the rebuilt parts? Or are these manual pumps pretty generic and I can replace it with something else?

    3. As much as I would love to say I will be driving this truck a ton, I won't. So it will be sitting off and on. I thought it would then be good to add a water separator on the fuel lines. Just thought I would ask to see if we feel this is necessary or a good idea all around?

    Thank you all in advanced. There is great knowledge in this community!

    --Josh

×
×
  • Create New...