bbigrig

Mack TRTXL1070b (12 speed crash box)

Lo-direct (lowest gear) 14.44 to 1

5th high (10th, top gear) 0.78 to 1

Low Rev (5 Rev gears) 28.52 to 1 We had one in a MH with an E9-500 (You could crawl on the ground faster)

High Rev 3.32 to 1

Specs as of 1989

Hope that helps.

The E3 engines were Renault and of a 6.2L displacment. There were many different versions of the Renault engines from the late 70's to the early 2000's.

They did start to go electronic in about 1995 and were known as "ACE" E3 engines with electronic pump timing but mechanical control.

I know dimension wise the older the Renault engine the bigger they were.(6 cylinder heads model) The E3 series engines which were into the 90's were smaller then the Midliner engines from the early half of the 80's Older models with 6 cylinder heads went by the model MIDS 06.20.30. (early 80's)

Then switched to 1 cylinder head with model numbers like MIDS 06.02.12 (late 80's)

I believe the E3's were MIDS 06.02.26 model ranges (early 90's to mid 90's before ACE semi electronic engines)

The E3's were shorter and narrower then the 8.3L Cummins engines.

Don't go too late into the 90's when looking for Midliner power. If I remember correctly our 1996 Frog-dogs were into some electronic controls for pump timing etc. (still mechanical accelerator though, but had an ECM in the dash)

When matched to an Allison auto they were bolted up to Allison MD3060p's which were electronic (series just before BR/World models)

Our 1994's were fully mechanical and were mated to AT series Allison trannies.(Mechanical) Normally you would see the MD series trans in the CS/MS 250-300 and AT's in CS/MS 200.

I would have loved the chance to slip an L10 Cummins in a Midliner.

Or why not slide an 8.3L cummins in like what was available in the CM433? (Yes I know it was an R-dog frame)

Good luck, sounds like fun.

We have a 2006 CHN Rawhide with a 460xt with the same noise during build up. The compressor stops making the knocking or slapping noise at cut out pressure (130 psi) When we first started noticing the noise it sounded like cam or roller lifters starting to fail. But it's definetly in the compressor of our truck. This unit has just over 680,000 miles. it has only gotten noisy in the last year or so and dissapears when the compressor cuts out. Mind you our truck has the single lung meritor compressor. are you sure your compressor is a bendix? I have heard the same noise on another truck with the same 1 lung meritor compressor but not a bendix. the only fix for the knock or slap on the meritor is replacment of the unit.

I have come across Macks with the wrong actuator(at pump) as well as wrong puff limiter at the intake manifold. Depending on your engine and truck Ser# you could have one of the wrong valves intalled.

The actuator at the front of the pump also has a specific amount of travel when applied. Each engine/inj. pump combo has a spec that it is to be set to that can require specific shims being added between the pump and actuator which holds the internal rack back. If some one just threw a "washer" in it could cause to much smoke. If the actuator is not shimmed enough you will notice a lack of power. There is a stamping on the outside of the pump (frame side when mounted) which is a mesurment of thou. of an inch. it is the spec for the proper rod travel setting of the actuator.

To test, You would apply air to the actuator mesure the rod stroke and if the rod stroke is longer then the stamed spec (if it's still there) you add shims to correct it (shims come in 10 thou incriments) or you could just pull it out, and add or subtract as needed after a couple of road tests.

Make sure you check the air filters and all the easy stuff aswell.

Good luck.

Had the same problem with my 2006 CHN Rawhide. Its the circut board in the dash cluster. We started wiggling wires etc. Dash cluster fixed it. The circut board shorts out. It is replaced as an assembly you only have to pull the old gauges out and plug them into the new board. The speedo and tach come with the new board. Be sure about which cluster you order 1 will be for kilometers the other is in miles. Easy fix and will cost around $600. Good luck.

You can try the museum...79 is a bit modern for them, but I think they do have some history on that vintage.

I was at the museum a little over a year ago. They had alot of files there for that vintage.

It was a bit of a bummer to find out they were lacking in the files for trucks built at the former Oakville, Canada plant.(VIN #'s starting with 2M2N)

Mack Canada and Toronto Branch disposed of alot of files and drawings rather then sending it all down to the museum when they downsized Canadian operations.

I Know a guy from the inside that was really upset with that. He did all he could to covince managment to ship it all back to Allentown.

Huge let down for Canadian die hard Mack fans.

Good luck though.

I have noticed the same with our 2005 CXN and 2006 CHN. both are EGR and as noted in all our engine spec sheets the sweet spot is 100 rpm higher or more in comparison to non EGR e-tech engines. One truck has an 18 the other a 13 fuller trans.. runnning in the second last gear(split) at 62mph both trucks have seen a slight fuel milage improvment when hauling full loads. (rear ends are 370's)(22.5 tires)(overdrive trans)

Both trucks have over 500 miles and smoke alot less on each shift when shifted just above 1600rpm. Turbo vane/egr valve burp issues we had when shifting have dissappeared since changing shifting patterns. both turbo's are original. The 2005 is a 355/380 the 2006 is a 460xt. The 460xt is a dog.

I spoke to the Mack Canada marketing rep. back when the Titan was being rolled out. He told me Mack at the time, were looking at adding a 36 inch sleeper factory sleeper to the Titans list of options. ( The sleeper would be similar to the Kenworth sleeper option.)

He also said at the time there were no plans of offering larger sleepers like mid-rise sizes etc. only flat tops.

That was a while ago. I was at the Mack test center about a year ago. They were making it sound like because of the economy and low demand on the TD model they were holding off on the development. (Huge Bummer) From what I can gather so far, you can order a Mack sleeper seperate from your dealer (fully dressed). If you have an awsome body shop like we have at a Mack dealer not to far away from us it can be mounted and look like factory. (A little cut and paste)

Of coarse at a cost.$$$ At the dealer I speak of, they add and remove mack sleepers fairly regularly. They removed one for me. The Titan cab is pretty much the same set up as the other cabs from Mack that can have a factory sleeper added.

That Titan looks awful with that sleeper. To make it simple all Mack would have to do is bring over the sleepers from Australia. Some of them look better then ours.

Keep an eye on the coolant color/texture. At an almost all mack fleet I worked at we had lots of (plate type) oil cooler failures. probably over 1/4 of our 1999/2000 model year trucks (over 100 macks in the fleet) had the coolers replaced and an updated coolant bybass hose installed.

We also had 4 engine blocks that the casting dust was not cleaned out properly causing the dust to settle in the air compressor coolant passage, causing cooling system problems to the compressor.( would melt the plastic air line for unloader signal at the compressor)

It will look like dirt in the coolant and our trucks didn't have the cooling system filters to strain it out in time.

If the color/ texture of the coolant doesn't change I would suspect liner/head area problems aswell. How is the engine temp on a hard pull etc?

is the cooling system building up pressure faster then normal, before the engine temp. comes up?

If you have the breather on the front right side its and E-tech engine. If the breather tube comes from the valve cover its a good old E-7.

The E-7 was in the start of '97 and E- tech near the end of '97.

Depending on which motor you have, you can have different problems.

Which motor is it?

Have you tried putting a new plug in the filler tube? ( don't take that the wrong way)

It's happened to me, and while driving it blew some oil out.

Is the oil level normal? (E-tech problem)

I hope I wasn't misunderstood. The old man was saying the HFB70 box is NOT the right box for that series of R model.

The SGP49 is what it should call for made by ross. Mack part # 20QC4257P2

Hope that helps.

My old man worked at Mack in the parts dept. for 30 years.

He says the HFB70 box is a late 80's heavier box. You should require a SGP49.

part # 20QC4257P2