convoyduel

I pulled my drop deck today into a local truck tire store to try and get a tube for a 1000x15. When I got there, this RS795LST was in the bay getting 10 new tires and wheels. I wound up buying the ten 1000x22's and wheels they were taking off. They were in great shape, but are old. The truck is in very good shape and has been repowered with a 3406 Cat. Not sure if its a DI A model or a B model, but it is definitely not PC. I talked to the owner by phone and he still uses it to pull some farm Cat's around.

All the guys in the shop were trying to figure out the odds of 2 Mack RS700L's in the shop at the same time, much less the same month nowadays.

I'm working on converting a '70 CF600 from pos ground to neg ground. I've searched the forum and read all the posts but I'm wanting to clarify. I'm very good with automotive electrical wiring, but I've never converted grounds before.

If I understand correctly, I switch the positive and negative battery leads at the starter end first.

What specifically do I need to switch or do on the Generator?

Do I need to change anything on the Voltage Regulator?

I need to reverse the wiring on the volt meter and water temp gauge, correct?

Do I need to reverse the wiring on the fuel gauge?

man, I miss those brain cells I abused now...used to know this. The '77 F-model I drove had the bigger sleeper and I used to remember when they changed from the flat rear on the cab...but I can't right now...probably same year on R-models. The instant Rob gets back from the buffet at the Petro he'll answer this, as he is an R-model expert. As in "air's nuttin' 'bout a r-moderl I don't know".

The changeover occurred in the '73 model year run, I believe in late '72. I have never found anyone who can pin down exactly when. I have seen titled '73's with both the new and old cab from the factory.

I'm parting out a 1968 CF685F, I'll take a look and see what the feners look like. Which side are you looking for??.....Fred

We're looking for both driver and passenger side.

Has anyone bought or tried to find the front outer fender for the front axle on a CF? I'm working on a CF that has the usual corrosion through the skirt.

You probably are hearing valve knock. If you havent had them adjusted, its probably due. Have them check at your next service....or before your next service. Change ur clutch plate and change spark plug. Clean carburater. check Gearbox problems if any......

I'm thinking maybe he just got some bad gas. Run a tank of higher octane and a can of Heet and it should clear up.

Now I've got a good sense of humor and can come off a bit dry at times, but that post sounded a bit too serious for me.

My son plays with the tractor-trailer lowboy and dozer set all of the time. I have most all of them, including the original boxes (thanks, Mom). They were relatively short lived. The lowboy was the best lowboy of that time, complete with the screw-down landing gear. I would have preferred a different truck besides a MB cabover.

I was touring through a very large truck salvage yard not far from St. Louis and found a couple of items of interest. Among them, I found a complete RW Western red interior in very good shape from the late 70's and a blue R model interior less door panels from a mid 80's Mack from Mack Canada. The blue interior included the headliner, rear wall and A pillar trim pieces, all in very good condition. I have not interest in this, just passing it along as I know how very hard this stuff is to find.

I am positive that is DuBois, Pa's old piece. If it is, let me know, I have a good friend who is a member of one of the DuBois companies.

The City of DuBois has an entirely volunteer fire department, split up into (I think) four or five stations. I cannot remember which company had the ladder truck, but I can certainly find out and probably get some information for you.

DuBois was an all-Mack city for a very long time.

Yes, it appears to be DuBois' ladder. I'm curious to know the history of it, especially the mechanical history. I'm not 100% sure I know the correct story on it. Anything you can provide would be helpful.

Here is a picture of the air starter tank I was referring to. It is aluminum but painted black.

Hello, well you might be stuck to welding her up or converting to electric start or buy a new one?? welding her up be the cheapest depending on how bad it is.

pitty I am not near you, I have 2 here.

Grant

I had a huge aluminum air starter air tank on a '90 CH613 I sold a while back. It was mounted under the driver's side cab, about the size of what you are talking about. Have someone at Mack look up CH613 with the last six of 007999.

I'm gettin' close to starting my own department. I'm just kind of stunned at how cheap these are. A small fire department by our farm bought the 70/88 CF that was listed on here. I can't buy a used engine for these prices.

I know they exist somewhat because they processed my membership (took my money) but I haven't gotten a magazine either. It's been over three months, nearly four. I called them and they told me it only came out bi-monthly, hell I should be getting two issues then. Figured I'd just mark it up as one of those times where you join something, realize it's nothing like you expected and don't renew it next year.

That was my experience a few years ago with them. No hard feelings, I'm sure they are a very good group of people who mean well. Seemed like a very east coast group, not much incentive for a midwesterner like me or Rob. I do wish them well nonetheless. Hope my experience was the exception to the rule.

I just bought this '78 CF685 100' Thibault mid mount Aerial out of mid PA. Can anyone by chance tell me the history of this particular truck? Thanks in advance.

Dan

You'd be trouble and money ahead to just start with a Superliner and update the engine if that's your goal. If nothing else, find a recent RD and start there so at least you've got the cab mounts and everything that you are just moving back on the frame.

While at the local Mack dealer today, one of my buddies behind the counter (that usually groan when I walk in) told me that Mack is updating the system and that any chassis info before 1980 or 81 or so would no longer be searchable. He said they were supposed to get a CD with the older truck info on it. If anyone has any more information, please chime in. I'd like to get a copy of the CD myself just in case. I can't see anyone finding it in 5 years.

You can usually purchase the three sets new from Mack less expensive that a locksmith will charge to rekey the cylinders. The stainless bezel must be removed and the barrel containing the pins will then slide out. A new bezel needs crimped on after the rekeying.

Rob

The easier way is to open the door and look on the side of the door just behind the handle. There is a little piece of metal about an inch tall the slides out. You'll have to use a pliers or small screwdriver to push it forward and pull out. When it slides out about an inch or so, the whole cylinder assembly will be free to pull out from the outside door skin. The cylinder will be attached to a 1/4" square peg that's about 3 or 4 inches long. That metal tab you pulled out from the side of the door will be free, too. To reinstall, be sure that the metal tab is flush against the inside of the outer door skin when you reinsert the new lock. It will take a bit of wiggling to get the 1/4" peg back into the mechanism. It's just a luck thing and may slip right in or it may take some wiggling. I find it helps if you keep a key in the cylinder when reinstalling.

I think both doors and the ignition cylinder kits are around $35 with 2 keys. If the truck is old, you may want to pick up a couple of those metal slides that hold the door cylinders in as well.

I hope you understand what I'm trying to describe. It should be a bit more clear when you actually see it in person.

I'd take a good look at the rules and regs if I were you before you miss something. Cargo Insurance filings are required for Common Carrier Authority. There is a process to have it waived for something like gravel haulers or dirt dobbers, but it is rather complicated. Also, be sure your quotes include MC filings.

Most carriers are now also rating insurance on company and personal credit history. I don't know nor do I want to know anyone's personal situation, but that will affect why 2 people or companies with the same age trucks and type of operation differently. Sounds like you're getting a better quote now.

The IFTA exemption was pursued feverishly by the ATHS. I helped some with their push at the IFTA convention in St. Louis in 2007. The bottom line is while most IFTA jurisdictions were agreeable to the exemption, some of those in agreement felt the exemption was unnecessary due to existing language that they felt made it clear that antique or historic licensed vehicles did not apply. There were some jurisdictions, including I believe all of the Canadian provinces, that felt that antiques should NOT be exempt either out of principle or due to their feelings that the potential for abuse was too high.

Either way, it has been pursued and failed multiple times. Missouri DOT has been working closely the ATHS to sponsor the exemption (has to be sponsored by a member agency).

I have worked with MoDOT over the past few years looking for a way to make this easier to get through. One option was to create an Approtioned Historic Exempt plate through IRP out of your base jurisdiction. The theory would be that the Approtioned Historic Exempt plate would be recognized by all IRP agencies and would once and for all establish a unique class of vehicle registration that allowed pulling trailers for hobby use. The problem is that it would likely require a nominal annual registration fee (well less than $100) and I know too many who would balk at that and rather take their chances. At the invitation and request of MoDOT, We have shown the Rubber Duck truck at several of the IRP and IFTA events over the past few years trying to build some positive PR for the hobby and help demonstrate that these vehicles are out there and very much in a grey area. We have received very positive feedback, including at the annual IRP convention here in St. Louis this past May.

In my opinion, I believe until there is some defined uniform registration like an Apportioned Historic Exempt plate, it will always be a crap shoot when traveling to shows across state lines.

Thanks Morgan (also for all the help!).

Nice write-up. I would add a section about IFTA as it is a fuel tax/road use tracking quasi-government entity that often becomes an issue at the port of entry. Many states say that IFTA is not required of a historic-registered vehicle while other states insist collector trucks have IFTA or 72 hour fuel tax permits which can be very expensive. Even at the IFTA convention, there is polarized disagreement. Like the scale houses, I find it easier to have IFTA than not have it. I have an account in my personal name through Missouri and it stops all debate. Some argue it concedes commercial operation, but once again, which argument do you want to have on the side of the road?

The other issue is that all of a sudden, out of the blue, I have Hagerty asking me for pictures of my insured truck inside of my storage building. They are now saying they only write retired commercial truck insurance for garage-kept trucks. Is anyone else having an issue?

Went and looked for any kind of wire today...no dice. There's no switch in the cab, no wire off of the fuel pump. I started it up for giggles and it ran just fine. I'm very confused. One other note, this engine is governed at 1800. Is that normal for the ETAZ?

The dynatard is basically the same as a jacobs engine brake, isn't it? I didn't see any switch in the cab for a dynatard, but i'm not 100% sure what to look for. It acted very much like an engine bucking and fighting a jake brake. The tapping I heard all along sounded more like a valve adjustment on a cylinder, but I haven't pulled anything to even start to look.

Superdog,

The truck originally had the RT1110 and 3.89's on 34 Camelback. It now has a Fuller 13 and 3.55 Rockwell on Pete air ride. The holes are all still there for the camelback, so we're going to roll a set back under eventually. I found agkits but I didn't see the ETAZ673 on any of the parts lists. As the engine S/N shows its the original engine, I don't want to swap, I want to rebuild.

LMack,

Yes, the engine is very tired. When started it yesterday, it ran for a short while then started bucking, popping and shaking the truck, throwing a lot of white smoke out the pipes. I've never heard anything like it myself other than to say it almost acted like an old mechanical engine with the jake on at idle. When it was running, it seemed like there was a noisy valve or rod, but these old Mack engines are hard to tell which knock is normal and which is not.

Looking like I will be into a rebuild of my ETAZ673. What is a good source for reasonably priced overhaul kits? Also, are there any tricks to the ETAZ673? This is my first.

The 2 line system is a loop. With the pony motor, there is a low pressure suction from a hydraulic reservoir to the pony pump and then a high pressure from the pump to the system. You need a T on both the low and high pressure lines. Easiest place should be near the pony pump. Put 90 degree shut offs on both inputs to the T, allowing you to choose from the trailer reservoir and pony pump or the tractor reservoir and pump. For the tractor, you'll just need to run a return line to your tractor reservoir. A single line wet kit feeds relief pressure back through the single line at the pump. After you add your return line on the tractor, putting the PTO on and the valve in the "raise" position, you'll have continuous high pressure flow to the trailer system.