superdog405

Yep, its bigger and hard to find !

Had to make mine. But u might get lucky and find a parts truck,

Sold my '95 two years ago at that price. Not out of reason for retail number on a '99

I believe they call it T ride, 

I'd also be interested !

U - joint to tight . Binding up,

Sounds like you may have a rock or something in back of your pump at the "pull out" on the slide, not letting the shaft open the return side of the pump completely. They can also be slow to go up or not at all, for same problem. On the rear of the pump there should be a plastic piece that u could hook a cable to, it will have a small metal guard around it. If nothing found your air shift cyl. that controls pump direction is binding and may need replaced. Good luck.

I run and maintain a small fleet of 7 dumps, I only use stemco voyagers . Easy install and the turn inside its self design lasts longer than the traditional seal that rides on the spindle. But they do go for about $40 apiece . As far as torque , I've always cranked them down tight and backed them off, just like h67st said.

We run 6 tri-axle dumps , they all get greased with syn. grease every 3 to 4 thousand miles. 

On 10/28/2017 at 11:03 PM, Doug Mitchell said:

Excellent. One question: Why the Cat instead of a V8 Mack? The two are of about the same vintage ...

Cheaper,easier to get parts for,jake that does more than make noise lol,and I got a good cat guy.

Same frame, but set back axle and a cab thats atleast a foot wider

it turned out awesome man ! Great job! 

Thanks josh, been hoping to see yours some place. 

It is much better than other r series cabs i've run in past. No problem hearing the radio

Requip in Emlenton PA has one. I got some parts off that same truck and cab seemed real nice. Small dash fire that someone got put out before it got out of control.

Different from an E-6 for sure

Got lucky and found one here from an old Mich. special that was being parted out. Guess if you can't find one you could trace it out on a piece of plate and cut it out your self, lot of work but maybe no choice. Good luck 

Down to just the trans now, if someone had any use for it ,i'd take $500

Used to be a lot of drag lines around here in western PA, most (like big muskie) have been scrapped .

I had had some similar issues with my '95 CL. would run fine ,but shut off going down the road. Went on for a year and got progressively worse till one day it quit and would not start at all. On a hunch and lots of $ later, I did the only thing that was left, installed a used Bosch module from a salvage yard and she lit right up, ran for years after with no issue again !

20 hours ago, J Peeler said:

Thanks beautiful build I found everything factory on a truck in a junkyard waiting to hear back from. Did you fab the filler panels or they  kw too I need to find the measurement for the panels then every thing else should be a breeze 

Filler panels where fabed, the KW cleaners work fine, but not the mounts! Can't open the door with the Kw ones, got new mack bands to mount mine, moves them far enough forward to get door open . from there I used KW tubes and a couple odds and ends to angle around clutch cable and connect to turbo, keep in mind this KW donor had a Cat and that was what I put in my Dog.

Check out my thread( Anouther superliner rebuild) in this section,but back a few pages. I did the same thing with one that never had them. Found KW cleaners worked best.

Just got one for my superdog with 1/4 front and gate,3/16 sides and 3/8 floor, looks and works great !

I took a mack 7 spd out with same rears and put in a 8ll in one of my old superliner dumps and still got 55 to 60 out of her. She would sink to the wheels in soft ground and barely grunt !