JAvery289

So I was using two 12v 65 series batteries 990CCA each wired up for 24 and directly jumping the lugs on starter itself. I would not trust any of the electrical on this truck it's all mouse chewed, chopped, ripped out etc. Truck was last used as a site plow truck into the 90's and when they ran out of budget for new structural floormat it was parked and sold as scrap to where I got it.. I'm not overly worried if the bearing is stuck, engine and trans will be comming out as soon as I assess the engines runability.

I was wondering what that thing was, I figured it had something to do with the anchient snow plow setup the truck has! I'll save it.

So this past weekend was slow going, I had more interuptions than needed; but that's life. Got the parts truck pulled up to where the shop air would reach and started the process of stripping. Things that should have fought me did not, and simple things became massive projects. Got both doors gutted and found that the bottom quarter on each had already been re-skinned. Its always neat to see how body work was done back in I assume the 70's, simple sheet riveted in and mudded up. If anyone wants the door shells let me know, I feel they are more work than it's worth. Spent way too much time getting the transmission freed up, and I was able to press the clutch....once and now it is frozen released. Then spent about an hour freeing up the engine and now it turns over easy with a 6ft cheater bar on the crank. Threw some juice to the starter and the bendix comes out but the starter motor does nothing. It is a 24v starter. Anybody have a part numver for a rebuild kit? Or better yet a 12v conversion kit? I took less pictures than planned, and no video as there was no starting the beast with a bum starter.

Terry--I can definitely keep the stack, if there is interest from anyone on here (I know it would be expensive to ship). Mechohaulic-- I've heard of Matt, might have seen him at a truck show at some point, I'd be happy to barter with folks for things that I need. I appreciate the offer if you had it. I can maybe get away with keeping the blue one for a little while at the shop until the Boss notices it shoved in the "back 40" (He does know its there, he just has bigger fish to fry). Bob--Yeah, I wanted a property that only had one neighbor....(unfortunately they are the nosey ones) and across the street is a private golf course that doesn't appreciate loud air hammering, or loud diesel trucks (its ok, I still sometimes bring home a 50ton wrecker and park it across my lawn!)😃 Yarnall--I have an old woodworking shop in my back yard (12x16) that has become a parts-crib for wayward 1980's Ford F Series parts, and now Mack truck parts. Over last weekend I cleaned up and organized and made room for all the Mack parts that will soon occupy the space, the biggest item will be the front axle. Not sure of the integrity of the air tanks, they look suspect, I'll hit them with the needle scaler see how it looks after, rear most crossmember is not great (metal is pretty thin). Friday Night-Sunday afternoon is going to be a lot of cutting, torching, and wrenching on the old blue truck. I'll post pictures, maybe a youtube video IF I can get it started. Thank you all for your continued input and advice! I really appreciate it!

I appreciate your support! I felt the group deserved an explanation as to why a new member just vanished for nearly a month. Also, I'm well aware (unfortunately) that as soon as I discard what I thought was trash...I'm going to need it. Though any input beyond what I'm thinking is appreciated. Here's my list: Mirror brackets, cab clearance lights, air wiper motors, steering column, entire dash assembly, doghouse, driver and passenger seat frames, window regulators, any good glass I find, good (or reasonably serviceable weather stripping, front axle, front hubs, maybe the engine/trans, prop shaft, hood, radiator, Kysor radiator shutters, radiator facia, air horns, emblems, Passenger side door, fuel tanks? (unknown condition, missing cap on one side) battery box top, 5th wheel, maybe the crossmember that supports the back of the cab, oil bath air cleaner and all requisite pipes/boots, front bumper, asbestos exhaust manifold shields, steering gear. Things that are totally shot: cab, driver side door, frame (double frame rust jacking apart), fenders (massive rust holes and bent), transmission [duplex]? (Refuses to come out of gear even with a 200-pound gorilla reefing on it), tires, rims (scarry rusted), exhaust stack (other truck came factory with under side exhaust).

Yarnall, I would love to keep both trucks, however space is limited at the truck shop and my neighbors are uptight about derelict vehicles bringing down their property value. I've already had the PD at my house investigating an "illegal auto-repair facility" (the joys of living in a Connecticut shoreline town). Hence the entire reason on this thread, the red truck needs to be mobile so I can hide it on my property out of view of the road and nosey neighbors. The blue truck is REALLY rough. I'll take more pictures over the weekend. When I went to go tow it, I attempted to move the shift sticks and the clutch pedal, and they are rusted solid. I can probably stow a lot of the running gear in the old woodworking shop in my back yard, but the frame, cab, and all but the driver side door glass is trash and far beyond their expiration date.

Hello All! Sorry for some radio silence, I was away on some military orders and had no access to the internet for quite a bit. Anyhow, I came back last Friday and had to take care of normal household task first, and then I was able to take some time (in the rain) on Saturday and get the old blue parts truck out of its grave and back to the shop. Here are some pictures for your enjoyment 😃 This weekend I will begin stripping the truck for anything and everything that I deem still useful/salvageable. If there are any suggestions of what to save I would love to hear them. Also there has been a few individuals that have PMed me looking for parts; if I can spare them I will help out wherever I can.

Oh man, I hope they can straighten you out! Or at least better than the frame rails are looking on that old dog. Hopefully they can stave off any kind or surgery, have a good friend of mine whose had three fusions done on his back after 25 years on the fire department. Hope you feel better!

It probably would run, but the frame is ahot beyond fixing. I'm going to be stripping it for parts/ engine/trans, small parts.

I was planning on doing the oil change next Monday, I have some orders coming up for 4 days (Army) so sadly I won't be able to work on it over the weekend. Are the filter cartridges readily available? I did some googling and wasn't able to find anything useful other than folks changing out from the cartridge style of filter to the spin-on style. I was going to go with good ole Rotella T4, unless the community thinks there is a better option? Do I need to run any type of additive in the oil for wear? Might as well ask this now, what engine family is the ENDT673P? I was poking around looking for gasket sets and all I can come up with is a gasket set for E6 series, if those will work then that's sweet. I'm sure that as soon as I resurrect this beast every seal will begin leaking, and I'd like to get ahead of the 8-ball if at all possible. I did order Mack TS442 (mine is copyrighted 1978) there's a wealth of information in there that you just don't see now in modern service manuals; however, I didn't see any reference to part numbers for filters or gaskets, and only briefly mentions ESI Plus "spin-on" filters in the "maintenance" section. I don't plan on pull starting it, I'm waiting on some new braided air line for the air starter feed, I was able to get the in-cab valve freed up and blown out the other day. Also added a few squirts of ATF to the air starter to give the phenolic vanes a fighting chance. As always, I appreciate any and all feedback, I'm here to learn from the best. Attached is a picture of the 'donor' truck.

It is a Monoshift, I was fairly surprised at it when I found out, I had initially assumed that all older Mack's had twin stick setups. The Mack Museum was able to get me the original spec sheet and this truck was built with the monoshift. The other truck (donor) has a twin stick setup.

I literally used most of the can of PB at the end of the day to spray down all of the fittings that connect to the injectors, they looked like they were going to be a fight. Most things so far have come apart pretty quickly and easily. Monday I'll be ordering up the main supply line that feeds the air starter from the air start tank.

I appreciate it, I have to work out a time where I can use the small 25ton wrecker to tow the Red Mack, the Blue 'pratt' truck will need to be put on a landoll trailer. We're already working to clean up a spot in the back lot to park the trucks.

If you think this truck is untouched, you should see the sister truck I picked up as a donor. Another B67, and old Pratt & Whitney truck (posted on FB "Scrap Macks" group. It still has the asbestos heat shields above the exhaust manifold, and all of the air plumbing is intact and neat, too bad the double frame is rust jacked and the cab is completely rusted away.

So, I don't hate the spoke wheels. However, the main issue I have with the spoke wheels is the rims, they are VERY rusty and I doubt I'll be able to find a big truck tire shop that will dismount them let alone put new rubber on them. What rims would work on these spokes? Is there an aftermarket for replacing the old two piece wheels for tubeless?

So the Truck is currently in Meriden CT, it will be going to Stratford VIA Wallingford. I work part-time for a truck repair shop and the boss gave the "okay" to tow in down to get it yard driving. I was tossing the idea of a standard cab mainly because there is another B model on site that has a decent cab, its a gas powered single axle dump truck, not sure what it is as far as numbers go. I don't mind the contour cab...but the one on the truck I'm attempting to save is going to need A LOT of sheet metal work, and that assessment is even before pulling the front windscreens off.

TJC, Much appreciated, happy to be here. Thank you for sharing the knowledge on the Voltage and polarity.

So I've literally been watching this truck move maybe once every 4 or 5 years since about 1998. I finally decided to save it (or at least try) I bought this truck and another one like it that is really (REALLY) rough in the hopes of bringing the better one back to into service to haul a trailer for my toys. Started work today, cleaned out ALL of the intake pipes, and air filter looking for any critters that needed eviction. Swapped some boots and intake pipes with the donor truck. Managed to free up the injection pump linkages (shut down, and throttle). Finally I was able to bar the engine over. Rear brakes are newer 30/30 style cans, I caged them and beat on the drums, front appear to be type 24's, almost all of the air lines have perished and need to be re-run. It has an air starter. I'm new to working on a B Series Mack, and I have some questions if anyone on here is generous enough to answer them. 1. What is the difficulty in sourcing new/used wheel hub parts to swap over from Dayton/Spoke over to pilot hub? 2. Is a 1962 Mack B a positive ground, or negative ground? 12v? 6V? (Does anyone make a full wiring kit, I can make it myself....but....ease of install is worth it to me) 3. Being a B67 it has the contour cab, what kind of issues would I run into (if any) if I swapped the contour cab out for a normal flat back cab? Will it destroy the value of the truck? 4. Anything else I should check out before attempting to start this engine? (The fuel in the tanks is very clean and smells as it should) 5. Anyone have floor pan templates? Or better yet a whole decent contour cab? Thanks, I look forward to the knowledge of the community 😃