Bill 88 R 688 ST

Thanks everyone for your thoughts on this...😁

Seems like a word to me... LOL😂 She's hibernating😴 for the winter, got the CH out on the salty roads...

Thanks joeymack.

Nothing real cool, just some general pics...

LOL, No I am not putting that in the same category as my real truck... And just for the record, nutsert is a real word guys...🤣

Thanks joeymack and mecohaulic. Not sure on the nutserts, was thinking about doin it over winter, and was wondering if anyone knew off the top of their head, just did em on my F-250 and had to drop headliner...😠

Anyone know if you can replace bases and gaskets on an 88 R-model from outside the cab without removing headliner ?

Thanks again guys.... High beams working with dash toggle, cleaned up pigtail and switch connections and working fine with switch now...😁 She's an old dog, but a happy dog. '88 R688ST/350 4v/T-2090 Much more fun than driving the '09 vision around waiting for the cel to come on again😑🤦‍♂️ Plus you gotta love the black puff of power with every gear😁

Thanks tjc transport and Doubleclutchinweasel, I do have the dash toggle, didn't even cross my mind to try that. Will give that a shot.... before just replacing the switch then do a jumper test if needed... Prefer to diagnose before firing the parts cannon, although the dimmer switch is pretty cheap ammo...😂

Hello all, Looking for some advice. On my 1988 R688ST I have no high beams when I push the floor dimmer switch. Headlights just go out, low beams work fine. Pulled a bulb and tested on a different truck just to confirm that it wasn't that somehow miraculously both high beams failed at the exact same time... Could this just be a bad floor dimmer switch, or should I be looking elsewhere?

Problem was that under extreme suction the cap would collapse and cut off air flow to engine...

Good call fjh, Once upon a time in my trash collecting days, I drove a MR with a Leach packer body on it, and the air intake rain cap had gotten pushed down by a branch or something, and compromised the mesh on one side, it would run like a champ all day long and lose power/black smoke and kill itself only when climbing this specific hill. pull over and it would start right up and run fine till the next climb... took a bit to catch it but it is a possibility to check in too for sure.... Was almost 25 yrs ago when I piloted that fine unit... Old age brain fog had clouded that memory...

We had a 2000 RD chased similar problem without black smoke issue and ended up being a loose engine ground... Check fuses/relays for corrosion/tightness, and engine grounding for corrosion/tightness before buying an ECU...

880joe, sent you a direct message also. Model years on the transmissions? Any idea on milages? Prices?

Anyone got a good T2090 with pto provision in Northern illinois or Southern IL, IN. or WI.???

Joe, They say it Replaces current SRI part # : 62-147 (4QK4005A) That part # shows as Mack Rear Leaf Spring | 10 Leaves | 19,000 lbs. Capacity SKU 62-147 Just wanted to throw that out there. But thanks again to all for the input. it is greatly appreciated....

Thanks again all for the input. Decided I am going with new spring packs and orig style rubbers on it. Really appreciate this forum and all who give their 2 cents. Maybe some day if i can retire, I'll play with the suspension a bit. For now while i still work it, After all things considered, I will go with factory spec rear setup. Might be able to gross a bit more anyway since my wallet will be close to empty..🤣😑

Couldn't agree more jojo, I guess the truth is in the fact that I bought this truck from a concrete company I used to work for, they bought it in 95 with 200k on the meter ran it for 24 years, me piloting it for 15 of them, and as far as i can tell from the book of service records I got with it, the suspension has only been re-bushed once around 375k. I bought it in 2019 and try to only use it in warm weather/no salt conditions in an effort to keep it alive... it now has 701k on it.. I believe I am just going to re-use the old spring packs and go with all poly bushings, pads etc....

Thanks to all who have chimed in. Now that I have the old suspension apart, seems to me that the old leave packs are ok, and could be re-used, going to go with all polyurethane bushings spring pads etc... and I came across this set up, and was just wondering if going to this set up with all poly bushings might really improve ride quality, but am concerned because I do alot of dump work in the spring/summer, and spend a decent bit of time off road in the slop.... Was hoping someone had some real world experience using this set up and if they had any insight into longevity vs ride quality improvement...

Triangle's New and Improved Mack Camelback Lighter Weight • More Payload • Better Performance • Longer Life Replaces current SRI part # : 62-147 (4QK4005A) 62-143 (4QK4004A)(25192117) Sold in pairs (axle set) with necessary U-Bolts. Contains: two (2) Light Weight Camelback Springs, Complete U-Bolt kits with four (4) 1-1/4" U-Bolts and associated nuts & washers. Benefits: Lighter Weight: 216-300 lbs. per vehicle savings Improved fuel economy or increased payload Easier installation Increased Life Expectancy: Bench tests reflect greater life when compared to the OE version. Vehicle tested on dump and roll-off trucks, plus front & rear load garbage packers. Superior Ride Performance: (loaded and unloaded) Installation Modifications Required: U-Bolts ONLY! Uses standard insulator pads, top plates, etc.

Joey Mack, Slowly but surely. I do prefer driving the old dog to my 99 CH. CH rides a bit better on the air bags, but will get hung up on a piece of pea gravel😜🤣The R model will walk out of just about anything.... Plus the coolness factor just isn't there....

Got an update for you all, Joey Mack was spot on about plate and bolster seperation causing pass spring T-stop to be pushed all the way to the side of the cap... JoeH was also correct on fanning of leaves found rear inside U-bolt broken in saddle and front outside u-bolt bolt rusted thin and bent/about to break in saddle... Luckily no broken or cracked leaves.... U-bolts out and a couple wacks with sledge leaves straightened up well hopefully with some clamping force on them now they will stay put... Thanks guys...😁

Thanks bulldog, I do shift using the new pattern, but just think the new pattern sticker will look out of place in the old dog... Joey Mack, the part# area of sticker can't be deciphered anymore... 67RModel, Didn't even think to call Watts. I'll give them a ring. Hans Remmers, That's a good idea, if all else fails... Mecohaulic, You B-model guys are all comedians...🤣🤣 Thanks everyone for responding...

Finding plenty for the revised pattern with 4th high side by the seat, but would like to find one for the old shift pattern for my '88 R 688ST. I want to try and keep it looking period correct in the cab...