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2wdiesel2021

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Everything posted by 2wdiesel2021

  1. 2wdiesel2021
    No, but we can absolutely pull it out and get it to TDC1
  2. 2wdiesel2021
    Spun it around and around and never found anything.
  3. 2wdiesel2021
    Where is this mark on the flywheel? I spun it around and can’t find it? Looked in the hole above the starter and the one in the bottom of the housing as well.
  4. 2wdiesel2021
    We took the head off a Mack MP8, didn’t think to put it on 1 TDC. Putting it back together and went to put it on 1TDC and can’t find a mark anywhere on the flywheel. Cam marks are all there. Where exactly is this mark or is there another way to find TDC accurately?
  5. 2wdiesel2021
    Oh yes sir it was fine as best i could tell, I also vice gripped that line off to see if that helped and it didn’t change anything. So it has to be a suction issue somewhere.
  6. 2wdiesel2021
    Where is this fuel regulator? I put vice grips on the return side and pumped the primer and got maybe 6psi fuel pressure. It will stay running, sounds terrible but won’t die unless I rev it and hold it until it dies. Just idling it will run all day but rough like it’s lacking fuel. Suction has to be the problem.
  7. 2wdiesel2021
    Yes sir that’s all there. We even pulled it apart and checked it again. I have two other Mack’s here and i checked all the hose routing with those trucks and it’s the same. I take the fuel pressure sensor out and no fuel comes out even when I get it running. I can get it to rev if one guys primes it and one guy pushes the petal then it just dies off.
  8. 2wdiesel2021
    I have a 2010 Mack CHU613 with an MP8 and we put a new filter head on it and new pump because it idled terrible and wouldn’t rev. New pump abs filter head and exactly the same. Showing zero fuel pressure and will only stay running if we pump the primer the entire time. I am lost here with all these new parts it still won’t make pressure
  9. 2wdiesel2021
    no sir 10 speed
  10. 2wdiesel2021
    new starter yes sir, we pulled one relay that says pwr PT and then we get the on off over and over. when that really is put back then nothing works. The pwr ems relay is the one clicking on and off. the starter will not crank unless we jump it.
  11. 2wdiesel2021
    well then it’s good, so I am at a loss here. The ignition constant on the key switch has 12v until I turn it to the on position and all the wires for to 3ish volts like everything loses power. Turn the key back to off and the main feed to the ignition gets 12v back.
  12. 2wdiesel2021
    I saw it there and I bypassed it. I got the truck with no batteries in it. It looked like the fuseable link was on the ground side of things. Does that seem correct?
  13. 2wdiesel2021
    I am working on a 2010 CHU613 with an MP8. I got the truck and the dash would come on with the key but it wouldn’t crank with the key but I could jump the starter and it would crank but still not start. I have fuel pressure. I started looking into electrical and now the dash only comes on when ai turn the key all the way forward then turns off when I go back to the Run position. New batteries. when I pull the relay in the dash cab PWR i believe it says the dash comes on and then 5 seconds it resets and keeps doing it. The pre ems relay is the one clicking on and off. Where do I need to go to resolve this? what usually causes something like this?
  14. 2wdiesel2021
    Well i would think it was the wire strictly for the number 2. Reason being is that it only affected EUP number 2. Only had a code for that one and it only missed on one cylinder. I would assume if it was power for more than one it would have affected those three cylinders.
  15. 2wdiesel2021
    What’s crazy is you couldn’t actually see an issue at all. The wiring looked very good, it’s where it was twisted to go to the EPU. It was dark in the shop and under the heat shield and i literally saw sparks and that was a good thing.
  16. 2wdiesel2021
    Ok, got the fuel gauge plumbed in and had a fairly consistent 70psi. Took the EPU harness off and inspected and couldn’t find a problem anywhere. Reinstalled new split loom and put back in the truck. Started the truck and had a very obvious miss at idle. Getting a code for 2 cylinder voltage high. Go move wires around and saw spark right where the wiring touches. No bare wires at all but it was arcing through the insulation. Repaired the wire and now everything is good. And the sewing needle on the pins on the harness worked great. Thanks guys for all the help.
  17. 2wdiesel2021
    Got it, thanks. That front ones easy access. Any idea if it’s NPT thread or what?
  18. 2wdiesel2021
    Well crap, have to redo my whole set up.
  19. 2wdiesel2021
    I have it after the regulator, which i was told previously that’s correct.
  20. 2wdiesel2021
    That looks like it’s right after the fuel pump. Previous comments stated to put the gauge after the return check valve?
  21. 2wdiesel2021
    Sewing needle, that’s a great idea. All my picked were just a little to big.
  22. 2wdiesel2021
    I had the pin out diagram. Used a little tiny Allen wrench but had to push it past the plastic just a little bit. Guessing maybe i spread the connectors a little. Has to be that.
  23. 2wdiesel2021
    Ok, thanks. Took the eup harness all the way off anch checked everything. All looks good and ohmed good. Reinstalled and now i have codes for low voltage at every EUP and it will barely start and run horribly. Not sure where I went wrong. I am guessing i somehow spread the connectors kn the harness side. Going to have to figure it out.
  24. 2wdiesel2021
    Making sure I am putting the gauge in the right spot. I made a t into the return line after the little Regulator screwed into the block. Is that the correct spot?
  25. 2wdiesel2021
    Ok thanks, is that at idle?

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