mdixon

17 minutes ago, Walkyrie_Engineering said:

Yeah I had the # 5 cylinder exhaust valve get a big chip missing... funny I never found the chip

It went out the other side. Any damage to the turbine? You say deleted so it didn't smash into the DOC, or go back through the intake via the EGR

Both of our failures are on cylinder #5 too

1 hour ago, OldDirtyMack said:

Hello guys! New member here, thanks for any help in advance. 
I recently purchased a 2004 CH613 from a guy with known issues. It’s very hard to start and once it does, it just bellows out pure black soot and I mean a lot.. like a coal train. I have it at a shop now and we’ve replaced all 6 injectors (2 were stuck open), and 2 pumps. He’s tried running it with and without the turbo hooked up. Changed the fuel filters. Ran the overhead. Nothing seems to make a difference. There is also zero throttle response, but it shows to be working on his laptop via % ratings. He has the newest version software, but it isn’t the VMAC. I’m just trying to get some help and ideas on where to go next.

Codes: 5-8 & 5-9

He says he has never seen these codes cause these issues.

I have attached a video

IMG_3794.MOV 8.18 MB · 1 download  

 

Air filter in upside down?

They're also 2010s if that matters, no def.

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Deleted?

No deletes, corporate fleet.

4 hours ago, Walkyrie_Engineering said:

I appreciate all the feedback,  yes this truck is deleted, and I see I have been a little more on the paranoid side I wasn't sure what was normal for the MP8 temperature wise, but if it seems to be within normal operating conditions then I can relax a bit. As you may know I just had to replace the head on this truck, and would like to avoid  doing such again any time soon🙃

Valve troubles? I've got 1 down and 1 just back from mack for cracked exhaust valves.

Hot damn

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

WHERE IN CT ????? nice R model. 

Norwich area

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

You can delete those stupid air assist clutch’s out to just cable 

Oh yeah! That'd be cool. Do you need a different way to mount to the clutch shaft?

Some lined up after today's runs, not all of were back yet.

I'd change the clutch setup on these CXU613s. Trying to adjust the free play on a bound up linkage sucks, and changing a broken air shaft roadside is awful.

4 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Yup, Junk ecm, injectors, and wiring…

Ugh n14 wiring is awful

Mostly propulsion  and steering in my department, but I was a pipe fighter, welder, steel worker, mechanic, rigger...

I did a ton of shaft and bearing work, pulling on chain falls and running jacking setups to pull 12" bearing, 20' shafts, 5000lb propellers, you name it and we did it.

Some old pics from the shipyard

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

Also you guys should look into premium tech tool. Strictly for volvo/Mack. You then get truck portal and you give them your truck vins and you can go on and get all the parts diagrams/numbers, service bulletins, service manuals, specifications/values, etc. for each truck. There is also online classes on there you can take for every single part of the truck. Brakes, engine, trans, suspension, etc. I think once you pass soo many of them you can go to their classes if you want. But there is a ton of online stuff you can do for free. I just started messing with it and started at the beginning with theory on oil haha. 

Boss doesn't wanna be pigeon holed, trust me I've gone that route. We have soon many vehicles to deal with, including off road and stationary.

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

do you have the essential tools to do the build?   ie: cam timing tool,  rear cover hold downs,  main seal installers, barring tool,   heck I'm loosing track...  anyway, get prepared, and dont  be scared...  jojo

We have a full shop, and it wouldn't be the first time I've made tools for a job. I was OSM for a commercial shipyard before covid, making tools and doing the impossible was just another day at work.

I'm really waiting for someone to blow one so I can pull the engine and do a stand rebuild. They all have over 500k in the fleet, and most are over 30% idle time.

Just now, Onyx610 said:

You may not even have that much leakage. Valve may not seal perfectly anyway 

Yeah it holds some pressure, but not for long. 30# drains in 15seconds

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

These valves can cause a mess of issues if stuck open. Like face plugged dpfs

I believe it, I've been dealing with these on a revolving door basis for a while.

I won't be allowed to change em until they throw EGR mass flow codes

Huh, ok!

So no leakage into the exhaust manifold at all?

44 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Got this idea from Mackpro/FJH, mine is just different than theirs. It’s a piece of egr cooler hose, a pvc cap, and air fitting threaded in it and epoxied. Stick it on the cold side of cooler and put 40psi of regulated air to it and you can check for exhaust leaks up to the valve and or check to see if valve is open. Also check for cooler coolant leaks. That way you don’t have to keep taking the diffuser pipe off and fighting with all the other shit. 
 

Should there be any leakage by the egr valve at all? I made one of these with a pvc bushing and some threaded pipe adapters and every egr valve leaks that I've tested. I didn't test the brand new one that left the shop last week though.

11 minutes ago, BOBWhite said:

Do they have an electric Def pump or do they use onboard air to pressurize it like the old systems? And oops I meant 7th injector, I don't know what I was thinking 

Engine fuel supply, so engine fuel pressure. These have air mixing tees on the injectors, but it's regulated to 30psi so half of running fuel pressure during regen

14 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Those gaskets suck on the hot pipe! We just talked about a tool to make to test the system before putting it back together in the one thread you posted pics of the n14. However those should not affect regen temps as egr valve should be closed at regen. 

They also cause boost leaks, which pisses off the computer with a drv 

4 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Your temps look good too

That's after replacing the EGR j pipe gaskets I messed up. 

17 minutes ago, BOBWhite said:

As far as I know you cannot buy from PAI directly. This web sight has all there stuff 

https://www.heavydutypros.com/cummins-engine-parts-engine-parts.aspx

I can't buy from them anyway. Only company approved vendors with a credit account.