mdixon

6 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Yea I forgot that mass air flow code was basically what this was about and not just not completing regen. 

Yeah I did the egr valve in November, it came back 2 weeks later with the dash lit up with the same code.

Down to 40ish% now. Boss wants to run it and see what happens, I've had it laid up for 2 weeks between parts and other jobs.

When testing the egr valve everything works exactly like the test procedure says it should. With a cold engine opening the egr valve nearly stalls the motor, turbo speed starts >40k drops to <5k fast.

Just now, Mackpro said:

That all sounds good actually.  Good that you got the new EGR sensor on there. What’s your spot level dropping to? 

Soot level drops 20% every regen. Started at 140 or so. Ash level reads 0.

Low temps will increase mass calculation significantly, and will cause over fueling, and clogging of the dpf. Same with intake/charge pipe temp sensors.

4 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Yea, if they are going into the negatives I think that’s a good place to start. Just odd he’s not seeing any fault codes. 

I'm pretty sure they present as mass flow codes. That's what the ecm uses to calculate lb/min with. 

I'm hitting temps in 10 minutes, dpf dp is .490 max. I inspected the dpf and doc, blew them down and and replaced all the clamps and gaskets 2 weeks ago. Mine went the other way, egr valve first. Came back with same code, replaced the egr venturi with the plastic 1 piece and a new sensor, and the temp sensor because the wiring had chuffed bare. 

Is there a software update when replacing the venturi? I can check software lvl tomorrow, I'm pretty sure it's been updated within a year.

Oh yeah lol. BOSCH ESI TRUCK is my scan tool. It's pretty good, but definitely lacks the capability of PTT. 

I did try and verify the spikes through my multimeter and breakout leads, but voltages were constant in the dp sensor, no ohm spikes in the temp side.

Only if i unplug my scanner and re connect after initiation. Thats what i did today, im getting spikes in that reading, as well as non plausible temp readings in the egr. Happening KOEO too. Checked the harness for oil contamination but all dry at the EECM. I really think there's a controller short

1 minute ago, Mackpro said:

Oh . So you have the early big 7th injector with the coolant lines ? 

Correct, 2012 first year with the scr

Problem originally presented as egr flow too high. I wasn't satisfied with regen quality, NO REGEN RELATED CODES HAVE APPEARED AT ANY TIME. Only achieving a 20% decrease in soot level during forced regen is not good, and what led me down this path

25 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

Put a 1/4” air line Tee in the air line going to the AHI . Hook a good air pressure gauge to the Tee . Start regen and during regen it should be right at around 31-33 psi. This is very important. Not changing the air dryer filter causes the regulator to the AHI to fail and cause failed regens. 

All that is brandy new. I cleaned the air lines back the frame manifold, and replaced the steel one behind the head. Regulator and solenoid work and makes 30# when commaded on, no air leaks. New 2 way check tee on the 7th injector. Brand new filter dryer cartridge and valve. I do all that whenever I find debris in the tee screen. 

If your speed sensor goes, generally it won't rev over 1500. It thinks your in neutral, probably keep you from building boost and would definitely explain the lack of speedo. I only have experience with manuals though so...?

Is there a module between the pump and the injector on the diffuser pipe? Looks like a banjo fitting down behind the fuel filter with a pressure sensor.

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

Here’s some info on the dosing block. 
 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209717-0001.pdf

Got 1 for us10, or is it the same procedure? I already changed the injector, it was clogged with rust from the air line. 

Fuel pressure shows within 3psi on both sensors, and the 7th injector isn't maxing duty cycle before cutout. I may have to put a gauge on to verify though. We're probably going to rts the truck and see what pops up for faults again. 

So I've got a 2012 CXU613 489k miles that I'm at a loss over. A month ago this truck rolls in with egr mass flow too high, won't complete a regen. I replaced the egr valve after testing, weak return spring. Code clears, return to service. 2 weeks later its back, same code. Dpf at 150% soot. Inspection of dpf shows high backpressure and a Crack in the dpf outlet, full of crystallized def. Replaced parts, cleaned dpf, run regen. Regen kicks out in 10 minutes, low temp. I replaced the 7th injector and the fuel/air lines, changed filter dryer cartridge that was saturated. Run regen, fails. Soot level goes down 20% and temps got the 850. Run diag on the vgt actuator, that sticks in the open position. Replaced vgt actuator, Run regen. Regen temps hit 930, then 12 minutes in it kicks out. Now I start another regen, and look at the egr info, my egr dp is jumping up, temps going into -°. Chase wiring, all clear, no shorts, broken, high resistance, nothing. I'm at a loss here, about to send the truck to mack because as far as I can tell it needs an ECM

Any suggestions?

On 12/14/2022 at 10:35 AM, Walkyrie_Engineering said:

I have seen a lot of correlation to the #5 cylinder from other people. I wonder if there's a specific reason or if it's just a strange coincidence 

I'd bet it's from the direct exit into the egr valve, high speed gas burning the valve on the way out, or some kind of supersonic cavitation from the pressure difference in that spot in the manifold.

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Yeah,  Computers,,,  That's the ticket..   No need to; look/listen/hear/feel/or smell??? anymore, just change the part listed on the screen...   

Still need to isolate, replicate and verify. Just firing the parts cannon is an awful way to wrench.

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yes sir...  and the power leash engine brake in the ASET engines can do it when an oring fails under the celenoid..  

Wouldn't this hold an exhaust valve open though? He's spitting out the intake valves, that's the only thing that has me reluctant to think it's the engine brake.

Never mentions checking spring pressure

1 hour ago, OldDirtyMack said:

The turbo is completely unhooked. It doesn’t matter either way.
True story Onyx! 

Are you still sucking through the intercooler? Or open intake manifold inlet?

Parts quality seems to be lacking, especially now that parts supply is non existent.

Have you inspected the valve stems yet? Valve spring pressure test? Sounds like a too tight valve guide or a weak spring. Or a combo. Maybe you'll find witness marks or heat distortion on the valve stem. If it's just hanging up a little after some good heat cycles maybe it's a faulty valve, bad forging or material.

26 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Only go in one way…would be pretty impressive to get that done.

Well, sometimes people change stuff. I've seen air filters in backwards in Rs cause this. 

11 minutes ago, OldDirtyMack said:

Air filter system is completely removed. I’m not sure how to reply to each comment separately. 
 

Onyx, I’m down to thinking something is stuck inside the intake. Maybe one of those red rags or something. That’s my next step.

This was my next suggestion