Angelo

I understand what you are saying. If rectifier is bad could that cause my overcharging? The Regulater is replaced all grounds cleaned and checked, field wires clean and check out. Not sure what else could cause the 18volt overcharge. I appreciate all your help so far

Gonna have the alternator gone thru and cleaned up by a shop. When I opened back where field is there was a lot of dust and junk. It spins free with no noise hopefully it comes back good. Now I think I need to replace rectifier too it’s 42 years old. Anyone have one or know how to replace it with something else that can work? Frame to motor ground is good and cleaned up some other wires I didn’t like the look of. 

The one field wire went to bolt on rectifier I made replacement wire and fixed that. The other went to the F on my regulator and I ran a new wire between them as well. So both of those are replaced. 

If the other is field wire I will replace that too it’s pretty funky and looks like someone patched it a few times 

The 2nd picture has two wires off back. One goes to rectifier which I believe was a ground to it, is the other the field wire? The rectifier wire was in bad shape so I made a new wire in its place

I’ll lift hood and take a few more pictures tomorrow. I’m wondering if the ground wire between gen and regulator is maybe bad?

I believe this is rectifier 

It has a Leece Neville generator. 

Regulater has 

on left side it says from top to bottom 4 posts

Ign

G
 

Gen 

F

on right side it has B post

all is Hooked the same way old one was. I had many miles on it problem free until this issue 

New voltage regulator installed. All terminals cleaned and still charging at 18volts. Any one have a clue has a leece Neville generator on motor. Idols at 14 volts soon as into pedal goes to 18volt 

I believe I have a faulty voltage regulator. It’s a 707b with positive ground and generator. It’s overcharging and burning points and cooking batteries. Anyone ever have issue with theirs. Where is this thing located? I’ve never dealt with generators before. Thanks for any advice 

Yea the felt wiper is in place and oiled. I don’t see a ballast resistor wondering if those original big coils are internal resistors. Maybe they are over powered like you suggested because it was fine and then all of a sudden it’s eating points like candy

Trucks been running great. Put about 800 miles on it going to shows and had  no issues. Last week coming home from a show started to loose pedal and backfired.  Got off road pulled front dis cap and the rubbing block on points was melted off. Changed them out with fresh set. Got back on road and lost the next set of points about 10 miles in. Changed again with capacitor and made it home. Anyone ever see this before. 
i just ordered electronic conversion for front distributor. Will buy rear one when I have some free cash. Hopefully it will help me. Only thing that worries me is why it’s doing it in first place?
       

Yes was adjusted and rebuilt as well

Looking for chrome grill for 1952 L model that’s in good shape

Well I found one part. Didn’t fix entire but I’m moving foward. Vacuum wipers had crappy rubber line on them. Changed hoses and when holding my finger over it it sucks to my finger pretty hard. 

I’m chasing a lean condition. If I pull choke halfway out she runs good and can throttle it up no problem. If you take choke off and try to rev she hesitates bad. Temp is good. Has new fuel pump, rebuilt carb, fresh fuel filters. not sure what else it could be. I noticed these were open not sure if they are closing when warm. Definitely something to investigate. Didn’t notice any vacuum leaks gonna get into that alittle more too. Maybe I have air leaking in some where. It’s driving me crazy.  Might try to crack a whiper vacuum line and put meter on it see what it’s pulling. When it off for while the whispers sag down soon as you start it they shoot right up so thinking my vacuum is good 

I don’t think so I’m gonna take carb off again and mess around with it a bit 

That’s what I thought too mower man . I had carb rebuilt noticed truck was cold and it’s wide open. I’m gonna heat it and see what it does but I believe it might be closing on me when warm and causing all my issues. 

Carb plate between intake and carb on 707b which I believe was there to prevent freeze up during warm ups. It’s wide open when cold. Is that right? Everything in my head says no 

When cold should the butterflies be open or closed?

Had dynamic carb in Mount Vernon ny. He’s old school guy that does a lot of old and rare carbs. My fuel is fresh, good pressure. I’m wondering if my advance weights are stuck in distributor. It idles great but starts breaking up when you get into pedal