Draggin Wagon

Barry,

Thanks again for posting and maintaining this Registry!!! Without you, a bunch of work would be lost to interested owners. Several people have contacted me today with corrections. So I'm thinking of waiting about a week to see if any more and then will forward the info to you.

For anyone looking for "multiple owners list", it is at the end of serial number section.

tg aka Fuzzy Buzzard aka Draggin Wagon 

You are right Vlad. I didn't look close enough

Wonder why they have a u-joint half way down steering column? Guess steering box is mounted further forward than B20 thru B60s?

Mark,

Please send sn of second one when you can.  Is it by chance the one owned by guy I told you about?

B813X started 1956, ended 1963.  Total production of 38

B81X started 1956, ended 1966. Total production of 47

Keep tinkering with it, it is just testing your patience

Full Floater, please holler back if this works out ok. If possible post a picture . That would be a handy modification on the old Draggin Wagon when the time comes.

B 67T flat back and looks like might be air start. Left fuel tank looks unusually large 

Give some thought to a roll back bed. Would be handy to haul golf cart and a motel runner car when you go to shows. Might be a little expensive sure would look sharp on that good looking ride. And besides I'm spending your money!!!

I would suggest the large radiator if you are dealing with much weight especially in hill country. The large radiator has a snorkel neck in top tank to fill the radiator. My old Draggin Wagon had the small radiator - no problems bobtail even in mountains. Hook camper to it, grossing around 25-26,000, really had to watch temp  

I have seen some of the early Bs stamped around rear hanger for rear spring on right side. 

Forgot -- I'm located ion SE Ohio

Sorry i didn't see this sooner. I do have a small B Model recored radiator that I could sell if you are still interested 

Phildirt,

I have all the originals of the B Model info on thumb drive. I can email what you are needing. 

Tom

Thanks. Little too slow for me.

Robb,

Do you have this engine listed in the B Model Registry? If not, go to home page on this site and get it registered.

Thanks

Tom

What ratio??

On the front of the injection pump there is a long acorn nut. Take it off to see the "rack". If rack sticks out past the front face of injection pump, try pushing it back into pump. If it won't move, the rack is stuck in the full fuel position. If the pump had been getting fuel, the engine should have started and gone wide open and scared the crap out of you. But since it didn't, you have issues with fuel supply.

Now, if the rack is flush with the front face of the injection pump or a little shy of flush and the fuel shut off cable is pushed all the way in, the rack is stuck in no fuel position. Ain't no way it's going to start. Most likely cause is one plunger in pump is stuck and has the rack fouled.

I would pull the right fender, remove side cover of pump, roll engine over to see if all plungers are coming back down to meet the cam. Most likely one will be stuck in the up position. Now the fun starts! If you are lucky you can pry, beat or cuss the plunger down. Shoot penetrating all over everything. if you get it loose, roll engine over several times to be sure another plunger doesn't stick in up position.

You should be able to move rack in and out freely - in is no fuel, out is full fuel. Now  you are ready to bleed air out of system and start the engine.

If a stuck rack is your problem, it could stick again if engine is not started very often. I have 2 theories for dealing with this.

1. Always leave fuel shut off pulled out. If the rack sticks, the engine won't start. Remove large acorn nut and try to pull rack forward to break it loose but it is hard to get pliers on it to pull.

2. Always leave fuel shut off pushed in. BEFORE you crank the engine, pull large acorn nut and tap the rack back a little and then pull it forward. Keep doing this until rack will move fairly easy. If you forget this and the rack is stuck, engine will go wide open and scare you so bad that you will take back things you never stole !!!!

My old boom truck has a lot of rack problems and no amount of oil in the fuel seems to help. But it doesn't get started very often. Once it starts, usually no problems when using every couple days. Let it set for 6 months and the rack will be stuck.

This is a long winded reply but I hope it helps       

If the serial number plate is still on right door, assuming the cab still has doors, go to B Model Registry on this site. You should be able to get reasonable estimate on year of manufacture.

As usual, a fine batch of phornagraphs !!

yep, clear forgot it. Will try to do better tomorrow

Carl, I have a bunch of ratio boxes. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow to see if any 90 degree boxes. If you think of it tomorrow, shoot me a text to remind me.