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The filter on the left says Luber-finer 272-C.Not only is there no filter inside,there`s no center tube,it`s just an empty can.According to the Mack owners manual a pic of the same(or similar)filter has a tube the length of the canister with a T handle on top,same as the large filter on the right.Can anyone tell me if this a complete filter that never had a center tube,or has it been removed?Can`t see why anyone would do that.What would be the correct part# for the element for a 272-C? Thank You.So I guess 272-C is the part # for the clamp for the lid,it`s a 500 Luberfiner,and could have a center tube or not.

Someone posted maybe 2 yrs ago,he bought two of the Hall Scott pumpers.He was gonna restore one,I don`t think he`s been on here in a long time.

Terry,you`re correct,the filter on the right has two cartridges,stacked.The top filter came out smoothly,the bottom one gets even with the top of the center tube in the housing and comes to a hard stop.I can`t see what could be holding it there,when the top one came right out.These are WIX 51235 elements.Any help is appreciated,thanks.

Left is oil,both lines go into left side of block.The big filter on the right,inlet hose comes from the oil cooler,the top of the rubber gasket that seals w/ the lid is flat.

So Luber750 on the right,and Luberfiner 500 on the left?

The line from the big one on the right goes to the oil cooler,there is no power steering...engine is 673 w/turbo.

Hi,can anyone identify these? I think the big boy on the right is a Luberfiner 750,no idea about the smaller one on the left. And the small one in the middle is a gas filter that you rotate the top to scrape the crud off the wall of the can?Also,someone added what looks like black silicone seal to the cap of the big filter even tho the flat rubber gasket looks to be good.Is this common practice for added leak stopping?Btw,I took the clamp off the lid,it isn`t missing.Thanks in advance.

Beautiful! Any pics/description of the hood hinge repair?

You`re one heck of a go-getter.

Do you have guys working with you?

That sounds like the best approach....thanks to all who answered.

My truck is hibernating til spring,but I`m anxious to get behind the wheel again and improve my shifting.There were times last summer when I needed to blip the pedal to downshift when I was braking.I know heel and toe technique is a staple in sports cars...do any of you experts ever find the need to do that? Or even use the left foot for braking?

Ok,thanks for the info.I`ll get some pics,snowing here in NJ today.

The front bumper(extended) on my truck isn`t level.There`s no sign of anything being bent or damaged.Is there a provision for adjustment,or is something else the cause,eg,frame tweak or suspension? Thanks.

Is that a generator behind the cab? Looks like a nice truck for $18k.

Pics would be a big help.

Can you explain the self-loading? Thanks.

Could someone explain the "Flintstone"moniker?

That`s a nice touch....Merry Christmas!!!

Put a test light between the battery and cable and start pulling fuses.

$1000 for studs???? I`m in the wrong hobby.

Are any kits or parts available for an in-frame rebuild?

Looks alot like the windshield on my `35 Ford coupe,which cranks out for ventilation,lol.

Thanks to all for the tips.I`ll make sure to have the aux in low before I get to the corner...haven`t been doing that.