Gravelguy413

Going to look at a rear mount pto with air shift and it’s off the truck so I can’t see it in operation. Anything in particular I should be looking at when assessing its condition before I handover the cash? I know nothing about these except parts I believe are no longer available from Mack.

Im looking for one that mounts to lower countershaft so I can run out gravel

I found one am going to look at it tomorrow. Not sure what ratio it is. What ratio are you looking for?

I have a trtxl1070b which is .78 This is the same tranny just an earlier model that has a stick instead of an air switch for the low range

I found this tranny in an 85 R model and the guy wants to sell it. Did these come in two different OD’s or no? If so how do you tell what the ratio is?

Decisions……..decisions. With the T2070 seems like I’m either going 35 or 55. Hate the big jump. With the OD of a 12 speed and 5.73 rears would need to turn pump up to get more rpm’s for some highway speed. Would reworking the pump for more rpm’s change how it fuels in the lower rpm’s? I like how this thing lugs right now

Gotcha thanks!

Was thinking of replacing my em7-300 mechanical which is getting tired with a low hour e6 350 2 valve because I also picked up a 12 speed for my truck. I understand that I would need different axle ratio which is currently 5.73. Wanted to leave original chassis CAC in my truck and not use that tip turbine thing. My original question about torque was that I was wondering if I would notice the difference in hauling loads both on and off road with the e6 which has less torque and different power band than em7. Also are engines set up with autos the same as engines set up with standard trannys? I assume they would be but anybody know?

Is there any difference in the pump, turbo or injectors or anything else when an engine is spec’d to come with an auto tranny as compared to one spec’d with a standard ?

Can this engine be swapped in place of an e7 and just remove the tip turbine set up and plumb the existing chassis mount charge air into its intake ?

This is a 1990 Mack fire truck. Model is a R688FC. For some reason it was built with this engine and paired with an Allison auto. Didn’t know econodynes came with autos either

I ran the vin thru Mack and it came back as an e6-350 2V. Has the charge air on top with coolant lines going into it. I thought it was odd to have an e6 in a 1990 R model but it’s all original

I know it’s a e6-350 2 valve. I guess it’s called a tip turbine. It has that intercooler mounted on top of the engine or what do they call those engines?

Yes it has that charge air cooler mounted on top of the engine. My e7 puts out like 1425 ft lbs at like 1020 rpm. Just wondering how that engine rates against mine for work.

Anybody know how many ft. Lbs. of torque an e6-350 2 valve tip turbine puts out and at what rpm? I’m trying to compare it to an em7-300 mechanical as far as power goes.

Yes gray and galvanized

What is this worth? Complete cab and doors rust free

Looking at an 1989 or 1990 E6 2 VH. This engine has the big tip turbine set up on top of the engine and is paired from factory with an Allison auto. I was told this engine is 350hp. I thought only a maxidyne was paired with an auto and if this is a maxidyne did they make a 350 maxidyne? It’s a fire truck. What would be the torque rating on this?

Text Robert 716-244-7438

Air filter fine. I hear ya on that

CAC pipes were clean. This engine does consume oil and has a fair amount of blow by from draft tube. Sometimes it uses a significant amount and other times it uses next to none given the same amount of use. A few times the oil has dripped out the exhaust side of the turbo, what some refer to as “wet stacking”. I took turbo to turbo shop they said it was fine. Looking into exhaust ports seemed a bit damp in there. I am starting to suspect worn valve guides or bad valve seals. Sometimes truck exhaust has a blue haze other times it burns clean. One of the heads has a Remack sticker not sure if other one was replaced or not. Prob should have the heads looked at.

Great idea will do that tomorrow. Probably time to change that gasket.

After looking at the intake gasket I see some oily residue on the bottom of the front and back ports. I guess these would obviously be boost leaks I take it?

I put the air to it today and did not hear any leaks. The sticker on top of the cac looks a lot newer than 1996 so I assume it has been replaced at one time. How can I tell if the intake gasket leaks?

Found no visible cracks will put the air to it. If a crack is found can it just be welded or does the entire cac need to be replaced? Don’t want to chase cracks all the time either