QCDriver

Send the Terminator...

Funny stuff, but we may have a problem with Britain as BP pays most of thier economy? Just like Alaska. They want to let BP file bankruptcy to avoid the cleanup, bastards. Just something to watch.

Here is an excerpt from SB 266-017:

For engine serial Nos. 0V0114 through 2R2728 (build date range November 14, 2000 through September 25, 2002), inspect the reset screw for the presence of 032053A stamped next to the screwdriver slot. If the screws are part No. 032053A, the brake has the 215SB321 kit parts. If the reset screws are any other part number, install kit part No. 215SB321, following all the instructions outlined in bulletin SB213027

Kit 215SB321 may no longer be available, but the parts are in the engine brake overhaul kit 4559-31180. You have to remove the engine brakes from the engine in order to install the kit which means the valves and engine brake settings must be adjusted afterwards. While this is done the valve yokes need to be adjusted and the exhaust screws checked for wear by measuring from the face of the hex used for adjusting the screw to the contact surface (part that contacts the valve stem). The measurment needs to be at least .960", if not replace the screws

I was at Mack Baltimore, that kit is $450, kinda high if it recommended every 150k. Also I have that SB 266-017 and have not seen part# 4559-31180. I'm going to try and get parts elsewhere.

Can you tell when my engine was built?(1m1aa13y91w139664) My number on valve cover in unreadale. Do I have a 690,690a,or 690b? This is driving me nuts.

Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the info. I'm headed to Mack in the hour with these part #'s.

Thanks again.

Problem has happened before but only on damp days. According to Jacobs there is some kinda soleniod relay some where, along with, some weather pack 2-way connectors.

Just interested to find out where I can get white cab lens or lights for my 09 Trident

Thanks Dave

Lens or lights for what part of cab? Cab clearence lights are a sealed light from Mack that I've seen. But I may be wrong.

I can not locate any of the electrical components, ground and solenoid. The brake works very erratic I think it's probably a ground problem. I've traced back from both heads to a main harness that drops out of site at rear of engine. Looking for some help before I start cutting factory loom apart. When it works it's strong which leads me to electrical. Oil psi good also.

I have a '01 E-Tech.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks

Some old photo's here with some cabovers.

http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/mack.htm

Your all welcome. I love old photo's also, and with descriptions it makes it that much better.

Is the truck air ride?

Best I remember this was an unoffical fix that problem and no service bulletin existed. I remember talking to our DSM (distric service manager) and told us to how to install the resistor. The 680 ohm was installed inline on one of the two wires at the intake manifold temp sensor. I will try to find out more.

Did it matter what of the 2 wires?

I stumbled across this site with lot's old Mack pictures.

Just wanted to share.

http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/mack.htm

There is some good info here. Check the service pdf.

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/productssolutions/brakes/airdiscbrakes/index.htm

There may also be one for Gambi80. PM me the serial on your truck and I'll look to see what step its supposed to have. Depending on if the engine has been rebuilt, if certain components inside the engine have been replaced, or if the engine has been replaced with a ReMack engine, the datafile may be a "Low Nox" file. This is federal EPA stuff and if this is the case I don't think Mack will change it to something else. This applies to the VMAC I, II, and III chassis with certain serial numbers

I give you my last 6

139664

Can you check this one, all original?

Thanks

Thanks, I'll check back here often.

I haven't personally seen any, but the Bendix website would probably be the place to look for info. I believe they are the manufacturer of the currently hyped setup. The older ones were Rockwell/Meritor. I would think the biggest factor would be parts availability. If no one else in your area, or the areas you run in, uses disc brakes I would expect that there would be a wait for parts when it came time to replace pads or discs. Keep in mind that the fewer trucks with this setup the less likely you are to find someone able to work on them correctly, and low parts availbility means parts that need to be replaced don't get replaced sometimes. I would hate put my life on an expensive brake system that I wasn't sure had been fixed correctly!

Thanks for reply, I've been on Bendix site, was refereed by my parts supplier. I would do all the work, that's why I'd like for someone with hands on experience for their thoughts.

Thanks.

Does anyone here have any first hand's on, with these conversions?

To me this looks the way to go in the future.

Thanks for your info.

Don't forget to install the oil supply tube in the auxillary shaft (the shaft that drives the compressor). It supplies oil to the air compressor. It's a small piece of steel tubing about 1/2" diameter and about an inch long. It just slips into the back of the auxillary shaft or teh front of the aair compressor crankshaft.

That would be the most important piece of reassembly.

Sometimes this doesn't work due to damage in the guage panel circuit. Most of the time all the other features work but the buttons are damaged. Even though they feel like they are ok they sometimes don't work for guage/bulb test or fault reading.

I was assuming he had no damage, like myself, in panel cluster.

Under your valve covers. Take a look here www.jakebrake.com

http://www.jakebrake.com/service/pdf2/021649.pdf

Sorry for repeat answer, I see you started another thread. Hope you got it working.

Mine you push and hold in the 2 odometer stalks ,all dash lights light up, and tach and speedo max out and reset.

I had that problem. It turned out to 1 bad rear ABS sensor. Did it agian like yours. I took some ABS SAFE BRAKE Clean and cleaned the rest. Sovled my problem. Hope you get yours fixed.

My left front still throws a code every now and a agian, but has not went into safe mode cutting power. From my experience it goes to safe mode if it's a rear ABS ( but that is my guess).

I guess it was the first ETECH's , later thay came out with a download and we were told to remove the resistor. SL210013

Pub Type: Letter

Group Code: 210

Number: SL210013

Former Number:

Date: 10/23/1998

Model: E-TECH™ ENGINE

Title: ENGINE MISFIRE — E-TECH™ ENGINE

Engine Misfire — E-Tech™ Engine

In certain vehicle applications and operating environments, a temporary engine misfire with accompanying white smoke may be experienced on some E-Tech™ engines. This condition will generally be noticed when the engine is idling with the coolant temperature in the normal operating range, and little or no cooling air flow across the charge air cooler. It may also be noticed when a loaded vehicle accelerates after a momentary stop (such as stopping for a traffic signal, toll booth, etc.).

To eliminate this condition, an engine ECU service data file has been developed by Mack Trucks, Inc. To receive the appropriate data file, a request must be made to the District Service Manager serving your location. Other means of correcting this misfire condition, such as installing a resistor, must not be used. Additionally, any trucks which have had a resistor installed, must have the resistor removed, and the engine ECU must be reprogrammed with the proper service data file.

To summarize, the following procedures must be used to correct an engine misfire as described above:

Contact your DSM and request to have the engine ECU data file activated.

Use MackNet to download the engine ECU service data file from the MACK Mainframe.

Program the engine ECU with the new service data file.

Upload the verification file to the MACK Mainframe.

Remove the resistor if one had been previously installed.

Where would I install the resistor? I have this exact problem, installed new lift pump but still here. I would like to try this before going to Mack.

A diagram if possible. Thanks in advance.

PS. I love this site, so much info to fill the brain.

Under your valve covers. Take a look here www.jakebrake.com

http://www.jakebrake.com/service/pdf2/021649.pdf

My feeling on these re-flashes and chips and such is if the engine was designed for something like this the factory would have done it.....Maybe.....I had a buddy that did a reflash on his series 60 Detroit and within 2 months he had to do an inframe because 2 of the pistons came apart. He was lucky that he didn't ventilate the block.... The only way I would consider these things is on a fresh rebuild....Just my $.02

I agree to a point. The factory will not set it to the max for warranty reasons. I RE flashed my Dodge from 235hp stock to 405hp no problems.

btt