Scottyairborne

Anyone have an opinion on Power Assist and front wide base tires?  Will the kingpins, etc. hold up.  I did some non-precision measuring and can make it work.

Hot day today, but got the driver side duals off.  Two studliners were a serious problem, but managed to get one off unscathed.  Will need to replace one stud, which isn’t too bad in my mind...

9 hours ago, j hancock said:

There won't be a lot of info for hop up.  Low rpm truck motor with valves in block.  Probably something to look at would be an upgrade to Pertronix ignition.  The OEM was a Delco distributor and kits should be available for neg or pos ground.

https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/pertronix-ignition

 

I will definitely be looking at ignition and finding the sweet spot for plugs, timing, etc.  I have been reviewing the Pertronix and am familiar with them from the hotrod world.

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

 Petrol motors need back pressure to stop  them burning  valves so you no doubt will need a muffler of some type

 

Paul 

Will be trying to play with back pressure in a couple ways.  I have heard a lot of arguments both ways on back pressure.  I will be running a weighted rain cap that I plan the adjust and take good temps to a sweet spot.

EN E377:  There is almost NO information on performance mods, reliability and maintenance tips or tricks.  I am very happy with how I have it running, with non-detergent oil in it...

Exhaust:  the manifold and pipe to the muffler are still solid.  The muffler is pretty bad and looks like an old car muffler with tiny discharge hole.  No tailpipe.  I am thinking about removing muffler and running straight pipe with two mandrel bends to make a stack (passenger side).  It looks like it is either 3.5” or 4” pipe, will have to crawl under and measure it...

I would also be very interested in the A-model value.  It seems the consensus on this forum is to avoid value discussions.  I recently bought my 1952 A40S, running and drove it on a temp gas tank 8 miles home.  
 

I cleaned the tank and put a fuel pump in ($40 including fuel line), bought new tires for it (the old ones were not safe), and am now starting to go through fluids, etc.   I am cleaning up the interior at low-cost (wrapping seats in Mexican blankets and memory foam on hand).  My son and I will go through wiring one-wire at a time (all rear lights are cut off, so replacing those).
 

No idea what the value is, but based on other Classic vehicles it is quite rare (based on the A-model registry here, very few still exist and even less on the road) and way cooler.  As a rat rod it is probably worth $10k +++ as it sits, as an original Mack A40 driver I don’t know if the same value exists (Seem like not), as a project with my son... priceless. 

Going start changing ALL of the fluids in the 1952 A40S.  

- EN 377 oil:  I am looking for suggestions, as I want to see if I can make this engine last.  I have had good results in other vintage engines with full synthetics in the (like Amsoil).  Very open to suggestions, even if they are expensive.

Suggestions for Rear End, Gearbox, 2nd Gearbox, greasing, etc.  I have the service manual, but looking for experience from the other out in BMT...

Fuel tank is back in, brand new 6v fuel pump installed.  I have it running and starting extremely well.  
 

Waiting on lug nuts to arrive to get the drive tires installed.  Should happen next week, then I can drive it to the house and start really cleaning the interior for paint, etc.

Sweet old truck, enjoy it.  

My son, in the pictures is named “Mac.”  He is a 15 year old computer wizard and this is his first time really working on a vehicle.  The idea is to have an amazing truck to give him as a keepsake alongside the memory of building it with me.
 

45 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

Going to be a nice truck the way you are doing it.Just a note, the holes in the seat backing are for ventilation a) to vent air when sat in and b)  to allow air circulation to stop things from growing.

Thanks, I sure hope it turns out nice.  Nothing being done that can’t be switched back later at this point

The holes I was referring to were Cut/torn into the seat back upholstery (vinyl and pad).

More tread than I will ever use... and nice pattern for a Northern WI toy 

This came today, pretty excited to put them next to the truck and measure.  Probably sell the extra pair, to pay for matching wheels up front and some nice steer tires.  I want to check the rake with the tall rear singles before determining front tire size.

Does anyone know what A Model this truck is?  I am trying to better understand nomenclature.  I think I under gas was even, diesel odds on A-models?

Budd duals to budd wide base single

1 minute ago, j hancock said:

Looks Good!  Amazing the paper tag survived the mice!

Agreed, it was the only one that did.  I wondered why there were perfect holes in the seat backs.  When I stripped them, I saw it was a farm fix... the seat backs were filled full of D-con.

Under seat tank cleaned and ready to be reinstalled.  Got a new 6v pump for it, so should be in business.  Will run this tank only for now, as it is only poking around town and don’t want a bunch of fuel going bad.  I’m firm believer in keeping old tanks full, especially when they are rust free.  

I have a set 425/65 R22.5 tires and steel wheels coming for my Mack A40.  The wheels are stud pilot (so are the axles).  Do I need special lug nuts to run the single rather than dual wheel configuration?

I am hoping no change is needed for the hub, as it already has Budd style wheels, just in a duality configuration.

Paperwork and seat tag match for sure

2 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

That truck is in incredibly good shape. It should be restored, not modified.

It has already been modified, it was an A40S and frame has been chopped off Right behind the drive axle, the hood and passenger door handles have bad “field” fixes.  I don’t consider changing tires and wheels a mod, as they can be changed right back.  The bed/chassis configuration has clearly been changed a few times.  I don’t feel like adding a sleeper box (not cutting the cab) is a mos either, since it is easily taken back.   But if you want to “restore it,” make me an offer.  I have cleaned the under seat tank and started preparing the seats to rebuild.  Hopefully dumping the old gas and cleaning the mouse poop out of the seat springs didn’t hurt the originality too much.

I am leaning towards throwing on some 445/65r22.5s in the rear.  That would perhaps soften the ride, help with fuel, and give me all the top end needed.

After measuring it up, I think one winter project will be channeling a flattop 369 sleeper.  A 36” sleeper leaves me 8 feet to end of the remaining frame rails.  After a lot of looking and dreaming this seems like a great option.

Pulling the under seat tank to flush and fit a new low pressure pump.  The old 6 runs really good.  Then start cleaning the inside up.  Will need the seats redone, basically just springs and some shredded vinyl and foam dust.

Closing the loop...