Straydog954

You don’t think it can be driven out after removing the other side ?

It broke at the diff end so I def need to pull the rear out ?

Broke the rear rear axle shaft in my RD. What is the procedure just remove the old one and try to fish out any pieces of metal and slide new one in? Does the diff have to come out to be inspected? Is it ok to source a new axle from a salvage yard or should I buy OEM or aftermarket or what? Any advice is much appreciated thank you

Which is a better engine? An AMI-370 with the modifications done to it (manifold,turbo, injectors, 5” exh.) or a stock 04 epa MP7? Application would be on/off road dump truck. Would mpg be roughly the same ? Why do the older e7 engines get better mpg compared to one of these two engines?

Hi I have a 96 RD that I’m installing a 12 speed in. The truck was born without an air dryer. The transmission has its own little spin on filter where the air line comes into it. My question is whether or not I need to install an air dryer on this truck or is the transmission filter sufficient? The truck is never run in the winter.

I’m going with a high volume pump because I’m adding a Jake to this engine. I can go Remack or new PAI? Any difference here? Remack would be less money

Is it advisable to change oil pump at this time also?

Yes that is what other members were thinking was probably most practical for what the truck is. I’m going to have it opened up by a competent shop and proceed based on what everything looks like.

Yes sir will do. I’m not going to miss the little extra money spent. Either way I will still be sleeping in the same house and driving the same pickup. May just have to hide the checkbook for a little bit…….

Sorry. Took CAC off to get to back of radiator I meant and cleaned everything really good.

I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check.

Yes 96 RD690. Truck doesn’t have a pyro. but I need to get one. I will have to look for cracks. I also read where you can cap off both ends of CAC and put 20lbs of air or so in it and put it in a tub of water to find any leaks.

I hear ya loud n clear. I decide I’m gonna run this thing thru a shop and give it a new set of nutz! Need to work this truck another 10 yrs minimum. Tired of the blow by fumes in the cab. Will repost at a later date with results. Thanks everyone for the posts

All good tips, thanks. Also does worn rings contribute to lower boost pressure? I can only get like 23 tops and that’s going up a grade with a 20 load workin its ass off. I’ve read about other things posted on this site that causes low boost and I will check those. Seems like people with e7s on here talk about getting 28-30 or more but maybe that’s with larger turbo and injectors etc.

I know you guys are right. That’s why it hasn’t been dropped off at an engine shop somewhere lol. I just need to find a competent person to dig into it. If the heads come off, what spec. am I looking for with the bore mic any idea?

The frame is decent not a lot of jacking, just a little bit in the rear frame area. It was a southern truck originally then spent some time in the mid west where I bought it out of Nebraska. I only run it in the summer as a part time gravel hauler. My truck has also loaded up while idling to the point where it was dripping out of the turbo but then it corrects itself. I’m thinking my truck idles around 600 rpm if im thinking correctly.

Not sure. I think I hit the quote button twice when I replied to fjh. He said maybe I could have new rings put in the engine. If I have that done how do I check liner wear?

Yah I’ve never had anybody touch anything on the engine or had anything done to the injectors and I’ve put 20k miles on it. I use Shell Rotella oil. It’s always used the same amount of oil since I’ve run it. Maybe a valve adjustment, injectors would be good.

These are the ideas that I’m looking for. All I really know how to do is change fluids and filters etc. I have self diagnosed all small problems with this truck by replies from guys like you on this website. Have never had to go to the dealer yet lol. It would be nice to figure out why I’m using oil before I just drop it off at an engine rebuild shop. I’ve read worn valve seals or valve guides as a possibility also. Maybe that would be the easiest thing to go after first?

Oh sorry I should have added more. It has a fair amount of blow by but is not puffing hard like a freight train. From what I recall oil pressure is around 15 at idle and 60 on the high end. Truck was bought used and I found a service record at Mack that truck had rods and mains done at appx 180k due to a strange noise. I see a remack sticker on one of the heads and assume maybe both have been replaced judging by the paint looking the same. I found the serial number on the block and it matches the serial number on build sheet from Mack museum so original block. Sometimes I will see blue exhaust at idle but most times it’s clear. Sometimes it will use a gallon of oil a day other times I can make several hauls and oil level does not move. Slight leak around pan, no dripping leaks. Took off turbo (reman) and took it to a shop they said it was tight and not the problem. I did notice exhaust ports seemed damp inside. On a few occasions while idling the engine was puking oil out between the turbo and exhaust pipe. Wonder if it has worn rings and liners? I really appreciate all of your help.

I have an em7-300 mechanical in a dump truck that has 470k miles and high hours 28k or more. It seems to start fairly easy in cold weather and runs nice but uses a lot of oil. Should I assume that it’s time for a rebuild? What is the easiest way for me to tell? Would taking off the heads and looking at the cylinders be a good start or is this wasting time because of the inevitable?

Ok thanks. I’m gonna go a different route. I’m always running heavy gonna find a bronze bushed setup.

Can these suspensions be converted to the bronze bushing and keep the same housings and springs or no?

Yes camelback suspension. Dealer said they did come rubber bushed in 44k idk. Frame is doubled if that says anything.