Straydog954
-
Posts
65 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
BMT Wiki
Collections
Store
Everything posted by Straydog954
-
Would it run this good at high rpm with a bent push rod? Truck has been sitting for a while that’s all I know about it
-
This is most likely a pump issue you think?
-
FullSizeRender.mov
-
FullSizeRender.mov
-
Truck has been sitting for a couple yrs. Oil filter was last changed in 2018 I see so I can only imagine fuel filters are old. Has really not been used much in last few yrs. I took a video clip on my cell phone maybe my kid can figure out how to down load it Engine studders or whatever you call it and shakes and then smooths out at higher rpms
-
Can anybody explain what the difference is between a CRD931A and a CRD93 rear rear diff. Is one better than the other?
-
Was looking at a low mileage e7 full mechanical. Started very easily and idled nice. Oil pressure was about 32 at idle cold and it went up to 80 at full throttle after warmed up. I noticed when the oil pressure hit appx 60 that the engine started to studder and shake a bit then smoothed back out when it hit 70 lbs and was smooth all the way to 80. Any ideas what would cause this ? An injector maybe? Engine has a dynatard on it and it was not working not sure why. Engine had very little blow by out of the top of valve cover and nothing out of draft tube Any ideas on the miss ?
-
Looks like the low gear in the 12 speed is 14.44 and the T2070 is 14.16. The big difference is the .78 OD in the 12 compared to .60 in the 7 speed. I think the 5.02 will still give me decent startability in soft ground with an ok top speed.
-
Running 22.5 rubber on dump truck with a 300 maxidyne. Taking out the 5.73 rears due to swapping in a 12 speed with different final gear ratio. Trying to figure out if 5.02 would give me the same deep reduction off road that I have with my T2070. I am more interested in off-road performance than highway speed. I’m thinking either 4.42, 4.64 or 5.02 Any opinions are much appreciated
-
You don’t think it can be driven out after removing the other side ?
-
It broke at the diff end so I def need to pull the rear out ?
-
Broke the rear rear axle shaft in my RD. What is the procedure just remove the old one and try to fish out any pieces of metal and slide new one in? Does the diff have to come out to be inspected? Is it ok to source a new axle from a salvage yard or should I buy OEM or aftermarket or what? Any advice is much appreciated thank you
-
Which is a better engine? An AMI-370 with the modifications done to it (manifold,turbo, injectors, 5” exh.) or a stock 04 epa MP7? Application would be on/off road dump truck. Would mpg be roughly the same ? Why do the older e7 engines get better mpg compared to one of these two engines?
-
Hi I have a 96 RD that I’m installing a 12 speed in. The truck was born without an air dryer. The transmission has its own little spin on filter where the air line comes into it. My question is whether or not I need to install an air dryer on this truck or is the transmission filter sufficient? The truck is never run in the winter.
-
I’m going with a high volume pump because I’m adding a Jake to this engine. I can go Remack or new PAI? Any difference here? Remack would be less money
-
Is it advisable to change oil pump at this time also?
-
Yes that is what other members were thinking was probably most practical for what the truck is. I’m going to have it opened up by a competent shop and proceed based on what everything looks like.
-
Yes sir will do. I’m not going to miss the little extra money spent. Either way I will still be sleeping in the same house and driving the same pickup. May just have to hide the checkbook for a little bit…….
-
1979 Mack E6 engine cooling issue
Straydog954 replied to RS Disposal's topic in Engine and Transmission
Sorry. Took CAC off to get to back of radiator I meant and cleaned everything really good. -
1979 Mack E6 engine cooling issue
Straydog954 replied to RS Disposal's topic in Engine and Transmission
I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check. -
Yes 96 RD690. Truck doesn’t have a pyro. but I need to get one. I will have to look for cracks. I also read where you can cap off both ends of CAC and put 20lbs of air or so in it and put it in a tub of water to find any leaks.
-
I hear ya loud n clear. I decide I’m gonna run this thing thru a shop and give it a new set of nutz! Need to work this truck another 10 yrs minimum. Tired of the blow by fumes in the cab. Will repost at a later date with results. Thanks everyone for the posts
-
All good tips, thanks. Also does worn rings contribute to lower boost pressure? I can only get like 23 tops and that’s going up a grade with a 20 load workin its ass off. I’ve read about other things posted on this site that causes low boost and I will check those. Seems like people with e7s on here talk about getting 28-30 or more but maybe that’s with larger turbo and injectors etc.
-
I know you guys are right. That’s why it hasn’t been dropped off at an engine shop somewhere lol. I just need to find a competent person to dig into it. If the heads come off, what spec. am I looking for with the bore mic any idea?
-
The frame is decent not a lot of jacking, just a little bit in the rear frame area. It was a southern truck originally then spent some time in the mid west where I bought it out of Nebraska. I only run it in the summer as a part time gravel hauler. My truck has also loaded up while idling to the point where it was dripping out of the turbo but then it corrects itself. I’m thinking my truck idles around 600 rpm if im thinking correctly.
BMT Forum Logo
