Dmurph2016

47 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

a small leak can do this... Do you have a way to hook shop air to the truck, so you can keep the noise level to a minimum? It makes a big difference. So what year is the truck, Tractor? Dump? Roll-off?  what is it?

Sorry forgot to mention. It’s a 03 tri axle dump. I don’t have an air compressor but I’m sure I could borrow one.

11 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

If you have an air operated engine fan, check the line to the fan clutch.. they can chaffe where it comes up through the shroud. its at 6 O'Clock. Also, the fitting on the front of the fan can leak too. also check the treadle valve on the firewall for leaks, and the tractor protection valve on the firewall, both are next to the steering shaft. jojo

I’ll have to check if I have an air operators engine fan, I have no idea to be honest. But I’ll be out there with soap tomorrow trying to see what I can find! 

14 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Anywhere there's air, there could be a leak. Your truck has two air systems, primary and secondary. Depending who tapped into where over time it's hard to guess what besides brakes comes from where.  Grab the soapy water and put it in an old Fantastic sprayer (or something)  After you find an air leak (look for the bubbles and different sound when it gets wet)  you'll catch on quick.

Oh yeah, tomorrow will be fun trying to chase down leaks. I’m guessing for the lift axle to drop that fast it would have to be a pretty big leak. 

21 minutes ago, Mark T said:

That small picture of the dash looks pretty clean, I think maybe some pictures of the whole truck might help 😏

Sounds like maybe something with that lift axle is the biggest problem, but it actually depends on what else is on that system. IDK if that's primary or secondary on your truck. You're gonna need to listen and start squirt'n soapy water . Once you find one ....you'll catch on fast how to find an air leak.

Fix'n it ???   well that's another thing

When I get it cleaned up I’ll post some pictures! When I shut the truck off in the front engine area I can hear some air, but was told that since it’s air ride it’s the bags settling. Not sure if that is part of the leak. I’m going to get a spray bottle and start checking all the hoses and whatnot but figured I would ask as maybe there’s some common areas that leak and that would give me a bit of a head start!

26 minutes ago, OldRedMack said:

If it took 2 hours of sitting turned off to drop that much then it's not a huge leak and the truck is safe to run.  But if it was running and did that then you would have a problem. 

With the truck running I don’t believe the pressure drops, will have to confirm later. But I parked the truck, both the needles were at 120 or so. Shut the truck off, went inside. I came back out about 2 hours later and the lift axle has dropped (it was previously in the up position) and the green middle had dropped to about halfway in the red. The red/orange needle had not moved. So I would say it’s a separate system. But, I wanted to check something so I held down the brake petal and the pressure of the red needle dropped like a sack of potato’s. I don’t have much experience with trucks, but I am willing to learn and appreciate any help, no matter how small it may seem. 

18 minutes ago, Vmac3 said:

There are actuators that are controlled by air that are behind the dash that move the flaps in the vent box. These are always prone to leakage. If I remember correctly the air cylinder is white. The other air leaks can be coming from anywhere.,from air fittings, lines, valves and the air springs. Best thing to do is fix the obvious leaks that you can hear and use a sprayer with soap and water and look for the less obvious leaks. This can be a time consuming problem. I would fix the audible air leaks and not worry about those very small ones. 

V 

I am going to get soap and water and start looking, but figured it can’t hurt to ask if anyone has suggestions on where to start. 
Green needle Would be primary correct? I have an obviously big leak if it dropped for 130 to the read in less than 2 hours. 
being that the truck is air ride, does that have anything to do with it?

So I just had my new to meet truck dropped off. It’s a 03 elite cl700. It’s been sitting for 2 hours now. The airgage has dropped. The orange needle hasn’t moved but the green needle has dropped from 130 to halfway in the red. Also my drop axle has dropped. I am assuming these 2 things are related. Where would I start looking for air leaks? Im a total noob to this so I have to start somewhere. 
 

edit* so it also appears I have leaks behind the dash. I moved the hvac vent controls and now on whatever setting it is on I can hear air. 

Thanks 

I’ve never understood why the DM series has the strange cabs, does anyone know the reason for it? 

So I’ve saved up a bit more money for a Rolloff truck. 
I found a 08 pinnacle 13sp mp8 with 172k miles on it. Just looking for some info on the common problems with the motor and year. 
 

thanks 

On 3/3/2020 at 10:08 AM, j hancock said:

I believe it was an option.

I’m wondering if a block heater can be added, I think in the winter it would really help starting 

Dumb question, but did all trucks come with block heaters? Or is that an option?

1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

The 1997 to mid year 1998 engines were a million mile engine. I’d argue the best engine Mack made. They can be mechanical or electronic fuel control during that generation. 

The mid 1998 to 99 e tech were decent. The 2000-2001 had cam issues and weak Jakes, some lowest bidder crap going on with Mack’s blood-parasite company Volvo. 

The 2002 CCRS was again a move to greatness.

At 2003 the CCRS got wrecked by emissions systems. You can manipulate those to make them a decent runner. 

Engines that old can deteriorate soft parts, so calc in for time. A low miles 97’ can never be considered fresh. Check coolant protection (nitrites) and note the SCA levels and don’t buy it if they are running NAPA green or whatever cheap coolant. You’ll have a pitted block. 

So there’s a few trucks that I want to look at, they are about 6 hours away thought so I need to learn as much as I can first 

1: 2000 Mack rd688 with 770k miles 

2: 2001 Mack rd600 with 239k miles with an new reman engine (supposedly)

3: 1997 Mack rd688 with 380k miles

4: 1988 Mack rd688 with 700k miles 

5: 2000 Mack rd688w with 421k 

I think the lowest mile truck would probably be the best but I’m not sure how many miles is too many to consider 

I’m looking to buy a Rolloff truck and am looking for some info on the e7 motor in Mack’s from 1997-03 those are the years I’m looking at. I’ve found a few trucks that the mileage Ranges from 200-300k miles and 300-800k miles. How many miles can these engines go before a rebuild? Should I avoid the higher mileage trucks? 
 

thanks!