Dmurph2016

On 8/5/2021 at 10:47 PM, Dirtymilkman said:

Your cluster lights and issues sound like a bad printed circuit board to me. They were pretty common to go bad. If you gently lift on the plug on the back of the speedo, your lights may come on. 

Seems to be working fine now, but I won’t know as I’m going to have the truck sit for the rest of this reason. Have to see how it goes in the spring of the mice/chipmunks don’t get to it!

Anything specific that I should do to the truck? It’s going to sit until springtime. Im assuming I’ll want something to keep rodents out. And start it every so often, when it gets cold I’ll have to put an additive in the tanks as it’s summer fuel in them. 
edit* appears it’s possible I have a rodent in the truck, I set a trap and orderd some repellent pouches to put around the truck/ engine. 

23 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Mack Gray RTV can get you by.....  just seal everything... I am currently building a CH, and put mack Gray on all of the roof parts....  been here done this.... jojo

Water is certainly getting in, we’ve had some really hard rains the past few days, you can see water spots on the cb, and all over the gauge cluster. I gotta call safelite and see what they are going to do, as I know it certainly wasn’t happening before the windshield was replaced. The good thing is at the end of all this I’ll sure I’m gonna know this truck inside and out!

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

OK....   door seals? 

Doorseals could be a good possibility, water seems to pool up a little in the bottom of the seal when it rains. 

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I just had another thought......  Is the cab rusted under the valence panel below the wind shields?  look at the underside of the panel , the best you can.....  its only about 8 T-25 screws to pull it off, just keep a check on the washer hoses... no biggie... jojo

I’ll have to take a look and see, currently trying to decide what I’m going to do with the truck. It’s almost august and I haven’t been able to put it to work yet. At this point I think I’m just going to wait until next year and try again. Undecided at the moment. 

On 7/13/2021 at 5:43 PM, Joey Mack said:

since its a CL.... there are 5 roof lights, 3 holes each, an air horn or 2 with airline hole and mount bolt holes, 1 factory antenna, 5 pairs of sun visor nutserts, and windshield seals. several places for rain to get in...  Just my 2 cents.... Jojo

It doesn’t look like rain is getting in from up top, but it could be running down the seal and then they just happens to be the lowest point. I’ll have to keep al eye on it.

On 7/13/2021 at 7:07 AM, Onyx610 said:

I’d suggest taking the time to really dry the cab out and then seeing what happens with the gauges. Either way that should be done. 

I’ve dried out the cab and the trucks just been sitting, haven’t had a chance to investigate further. But good chance the water is causing the issues 

5 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Especially living in the North East…😕

Yup, living in the north sucks, would like to relocate to the Carolinas but who knows if that’ll ever happen. 

5 hours ago, Mark T said:

It's not rotted around the roof vent , is it ?  Sometimes on those if you remove the plastic out on the cowl where the wiper arms are connected to their posts  you get a big surprise and discover lots of the cowl itself is missing from rust. You need to find out where the water's coming in and stop it, no matter. It may have a lot to do with the light issue

I’ll have the check the roof vent, didn’t even know there was one. 
when they were replacing the glass they didn’t say anything. I know they took the wiper arm off, but not sure on the cowl. But wouldn’t hbe surprised if they didn’t say anything and just put the glass in. It certainly looks like the windshield is leaking in a few spots as I can see traces of water, so I’ll have to call them back out to see what they can do. Looks like there may be a small leak in the corner of the glass and it could be possibly dripping down along the cluster and onto the floor. Have to watch it when it rains again amd see where the water lands and try tracing it 

17 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Is that condensation on the inside or outside of the gauges? I see the rain droplets on the windshield. If it’s on the inside you may have found your issue…or where to really start looking anyway. 

The condensation is on the inside of the gauges, tried whiping the gauges but it wouldn’t go away so it would appear to be the inside. I just had that side windshield replaced. But the headliner is dry. I don’t see the water coming in anywhere. Kinda hard to tell in the pics but looks like there is some wetness in the areas 

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

the dash grounds are easy to see. pull the cluster and look to the left, there is a 6mm bolt with grounds attached. clean the connection, then to the right of the fuse panel there is another one, then on the left side of the engine block , in front of the starter is a big bolt with grounds that go it and across to the frame behind the steer tire, theres also a ground breaker on the firewall next to the starter relay...  Now if the gauges are fogging up, how did water get in?   are the sunvisor nutserts loose and letting rain inside?

I just had the windshield replaced on that side, but the gauges were starting to fog up ever so slightly when it was super humid here the week before. Headliner is dry. So I am not sure where water could be getting in. I’ll have to check the grounds as well as the sunvisor bolts 

22 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Actually you are probably correct on the circuit board…yea electrical and diagnosing over the internet is a bad combo. 

Yeah over the internet diagnostics is next to impossible, but I do appreciate any help you guys give. 

22 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Just for kicks, i'd like to have the circuit board and trace the inlay's to see where they lead, and then put 12 volts to it and a ground.. just use a lawn mower battery, and see if I can find the issue...

Starting to think maybe the circuit board could be the culprit.

23 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Glenn, you read my mind.  I was going to say, "that is the color of money"   not that I am wealthy.... Just the truth...   ...  so this dash light issue is odd to me,,,  mabey the circuit board is bad???  I don't like these kind of repairs, to much guessing..  

I don’t like the guessing, but it is an odd issue. So I just went out to the truck to try to mess with it and see if the lights will come on. Nothing, flight on the ign and batt feed switches on and off, and when I turn on my lights the gauge lights are working now. Not sure what the deal is with those switches. After doing that I noticed 2 things. My tach flickers a bit. And my volts flicker when I turn the headlights on. But Atleast it appears the lights are coming on? 
Also my gauges are all fogging up now, not sure what’s causing that lol.

On 7/9/2021 at 8:05 PM, Onyx610 said:

This as well…I’m not to familiar with this model truck, so my input will be limited in some areas. Also was the “click” mechanical sounding or like an electrical arc click?

It sounded like a mechanical click, but the gauge lights and headlights and marker lights are all on the same switch so I’d think if it’s a relay none would he working 

On 7/9/2021 at 7:51 PM, Joey Mack said:

Did you check the grounds inside the dash?  I may have asked this before, sorry ,I forgot. Jojo

I have not yet, I’m trying to avoid removing it but know that I have to if I want to figure out the issue. 

7 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Sounds like a relay or circuit breaker 

I checked the circuit breaker for the gauge lights and it had continuity. I tried a different circuit breaker, same result no gauge lights. Not sure if there’s a delay for the gauge lights by themselves. I may have to end up taking the cluster out and looking around.

On 7/7/2021 at 6:24 AM, Mark T said:

(lol)  this kid needs all the help he can get  

I do need all the help I can get, and I’m not afraid to admit that! I would rather look stupid asking questions then go and just pry stuff apart and damage things, because it sucks when you try to go fix one little thing and it ends up costing you a bunch of money to fix a bunch of other things that broke in the process. With that said, I’m not sure if the truck just decided that it wanted to cooperate or what, but I went to get it inspected and as the guys putting the sticker on the windshield I see that the dash lights are all working, hopefully they stay working.  
 

edit* I guess I jinxed myself, just went to check something in the truck and the gauge lights came on, then you could hear a click and they shut off and won’t come back on. 

Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the cluster to replace the bulbs? I can’t seem to figure it out, I took some screws out but it was the bezel that came off. 

Does the cluster come out easy to change the bulbs? I don’t want to just unscrew dash parts and pry possibly damage something. 

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

I was gonna say, most likely you have some bulbs out in the dash. Between vibration and age it’s a good chance. 

What I was originally thinking, but the chance that all the gauge lights are out seemed less likely to me, but probably what the issue is. 

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

That’s a circuit breaker, you can test it with a volt meter or switch it with a known good one and see if that fixes it. 

I was at the dealer picking up my speed sensor, and I was talking to the guy at the counter, he brought up a good point. If that circuit breaker was bad, I wouldn’t be getting the 12v at the plug, I told him I jumped the plug and still no lights, he said there’ a good chance that the bulbs could all be Burnt out. So I think I’m going to try to figure out how you take the cluster out so I can check the bulbs 

15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yes ... a jumper...  

jumped it, nothing happened. I checked the fuses, I’m going to try replacing it and see if that makes a difference. 

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Thats low, are the batts good? during this test? I have simply put a paper clip in the plug at the dimmer switch to see if the lights come on "Full bright"..

I honestly haven’t checked the battery’s. I will have to. You put a paper clip in the plug like a jumper? I’ll have to try that, see if I have a paper clip somewhere.

edit truck on getting 12.9v to that plug 

On 6/25/2021 at 8:33 PM, Joey Mack said:

was there 12.6 volts at the switch plug ?

At the plug It looks like I’m getting 11.6 (with the truck off, I’d that makes a difference) 

I’m going to pickup a new switch, and see if that makes a difference, dealer wants $100 bucks for the reostat, I was originally thinking maybe it was not the switch but I doubt all the Lights are out, we will replace the sketch and see what happens. If it’s not the switch how hard is it to remove the cluster?

10 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

It's a reostat, just turn it  to see if the dash lights work., if the lights come on but act stupid,,,, rotate the dial left and right as fast as you can to see if is just dirty.. it may come back to life....   Jojo

Yeah i Already tried turning the dial nothing seems to come on. So I’m guessing either there’s a loose connection, or maybe all the bulbs are out, but that seems unlikely 

12 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

do you have a dial for the dash lights?    They do mess up..

I should specify I do have turn signal/ 4 ways and the air warning light but I don’t believe any of the other lights come or or lights for any gauges. The truck does have a dial. But I haven’t looking into how it works yet 

Next up on the list.. gauge cluster lights? Easy to take the cluster out to replace the lights? Went to take it for a drive but it’s pitch black out, and no gauge lights at all.