Mandrewoid

The decision is made. I'm getting continental HDC3 https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/construction/chdc3 8 of those will make a big difference, compared to the bald tires I have now. Here's some entertainment. Stuck in both pictures. If I'm not happy with the HDC3 duals, I will triple up on the back. I've figured out how to do it and make it sturdy. The idea is pretty simple. Get a 3/8" or 7/16" plate that will fit just inside the open center rim. Drill 17 holes in it. 6 for access to the lugs on the Dayton hubs, 10 in a circle for bolting a stud piloted rim to. And one big one in the middle for reaching through to install the wedges. You put your Dayton duals on as normal ( except a little bit of a tight spot to get the wedges in) , and true them up as normal. Then you bolt on a stud piloted rim w/tire to the outside dual. Tighten it up with some ugga duggas and send it. It will be wide, but it will get my outside tires on undisturbed ground more often which will help too. I will run the outside tires at like 55lbs and the insides probably at around 70. Depending on how squishy they look. I just have to find a machine shop that can make me 4 circles with the stud piloted holes drilled in.

My local tire shop says stay away from 20" tube type tires and lock ring rims. I do not think new rims are available anymore?

From a video about Battleship New Jersey's gun barrels. This beautiful old Mack was used to haul the heavy load. I've never seen a Dayton hub with so many spokes, anyone know what this is?

Manure season is never over. Ontario Canada is the location. Truck is out of Windsor originally, but I'm farther East than Toronto. I've never heard of remote drive on a cement truck, but it is possible to get a specialty transfer case that can accept power from either the transmission, or a hydraulic motor. Sort of the opposite of a transfer case in a fire pumper, that will output to the rear wheels, or to the axles. Another option would be an air cylinder on the clutch. For low speed driving you don't really have to take the brakes off, but it isn't really advisable practice in either case. As for front axle and transfer case stuff not being available. I hope that isn't the case. But I also hope I don't need any...

I posted incomplete photos of my DMM build in the introduction forum. Here it is fully outfitted for work. This project has taken a little over a year for me to fab and assemble. That stainless tank is 6000 USG which equates to a payload of approximately 27 tons of cattle manure. With an Eaton hydrostatic drive off the crank like a cement truck, I can unload in slightly over 2 minutes, with no stopping necessary to engage or disengage an air shift PTO. I am still in the market for bigger/more tires. Got stuck pretty nicely this weekend. But it looks like my options are pretty limited as long as I have the Dana hubs.... Anyone with suggestions please chime in. Also does Anyone know the approx tare wt of a bare DMM? I haven't gotten around to taking it over the scales.... I know we have hills that I can't make it up any faster than 23Mph. The EM6-275 is working pretty hard 😅( I may have "adjusted" the fuel plate) but it is still better than pulling that amount with a farm tractor. received_864841447552775.mp4

Says on his profile he was logged in this year in May? I guess that means he probably wasn't killed mounting a tire

It may be hard to see from these pictures. But that truck has triple 11r22.5 on the back. Unfortunately I think it was scrapped about 10yrs ago. Guy has 4 of them with triples and 1 or 2 with big floaters. We bought one of the floater trucks. received_263435325438343.webp

Hi everyone, I posted here in 2019 about the DMM we acquired. I'm just now a few weeks away from having it fully operational. BUT in order for it to drive through the fields in the conditions we sometimes get into, it needs a bit more rubber. As you should be able to see from the picture, the 680 on the left has 650/75r22.5 on the front. On the back it has 710/65r22.5 which are of course even wider. Ideally I'd have 710's on the back of the DMM too, although they are very expensive tires, and burn up really fast on the road. Also, they are bigger than the 11r22.5's that are currently on. Because the DMM is 6 wheel drive, I'm concerned about damaging my transfer case if I run bigger tires on the back than it was designed to operate with? Does anyone know the standard ratio of the mack transfer case? I'm assuming there is a differential in there, because it says full time 6WD with manual locking. So the differential would allow for the rears to turn slightly slower, but it would mean more power moving through the spiders than it was meant to do. Unless they're just built so heavy it doesn't matter? Second, I have Dayton hubs on the back, does anyone know how to run DUAL 425/65r25 on Dayton hubs I think if it's possible, that could be an affordable solution to put as much rubber on the road as single 710's I know a guy who used to run triple 11r22.5's, but I'm not sure how he did that either. He says he welded the outside rims to the middle rim. But I don't know how he ever got the tires mounted or unmounted after that. Thanks for your wisdom. Andrew. More pictures on request 🙂

Valid question. Because you can chop a truck into a trailer and pull it behind a farm tractor with no license/safety. WAY cheaper insurance. Would need all new brakes, tires, clutch etc (plus the cab) to get safetied as a truck again. And that's assuming they dont decide to turn you down because of something like frame rust.

Yes the DMM is replacing the one with the green tank on it. They were both previously cement mixers. The older one is pretty much worn out. The feed truck is also done for. The cab is an absolute state. Pulling the cab off, engine and transmission out and turning it into a dump trailer. Unfortunately/fortunately, and what I bet is pretty common, the engine in the feed truck still runs fine. Bit of a shame to turn a running truck into a not running truck but the cab is just not worth repair. I have been pondering the idea of swapping the 350 into the DMM, it has a 275/285 currently. Don't remember which. Unless it would be easier to move the intercooler and turbo? And turn up the pump on the DMM? what do you guys think?

Yes I did pull it. I guess I should've said what is it SUPPOSED to do because it does nothing. Looks like there's a lightbulb in it as well, that doesn't light up.

Couple hours East of Toronto right on 401. You close by?

Odd Question. Does anyone know what the green switch does here?

It's stuck there in that picture 😂 Not enough weight to get traction. Put some round bales on it and away it went

Hi bigmacktrucks forum! Been reading stuff here on and off for years... finally signed up. Mack collection increased from 1 to 3 in the past few weeks so I thought I should be on here to ask about stuff as it comes up. Picture uploading is failing so I'll add them as a reply.