marvgarr

i think they are little automatics and everyone knows that an automatic needs hydraulic pressure to work so that may be why it has to be going 18 mph because a typical auto has the engine running the pump on the trans this unit uses the driveline so you have to be moving for the pump to work just my thought

I found it , but i'll have to wire brush it to see it better

ok hey liner kit is 140 dollars for that motor you need three but that includes piston, liner,and rings a liner is 50 dollars if you need to replace them

Sorry thermodyne, wher excatly would they be at again? I'll look again tomorrow.

right hand side of the block in the upper rear corner look at the pic i posted in the previous post

Well the injectors are out, put the tranny fluid and pb in it. The back 2 cylinders are filled up to the top, and there appeared to be a little fluid in the second one. I'm gonna keep adding to it for a few days and if that don't work i'm pullin the head. I got the numbers off the block for ya thermodyne. the numbers on the left side go

CH43 5125423 110

CWD

on the right side it goes- 5116383

That's what they all appear to be.

not sure joe there should be 8 digit model number on top of the serial number like this

Thanks for the help guys, after sleeping in it i'm gonna pull the injectors and add some atf. Probably gonna pour oil in it from the top so it can run through all the oil valleys to help unstick anything else. Think it would be alright to use used motor oil for the moment. The oil pan has a hole in it from a chisel, "they was gonna haul it to the scrapper", still oil coming out of it. The last little bit that come out of it looked a little milky, but not bad. Gonna get some pb blaster too. I like your idea Rob, probably gonna go that route also. I already have this thing, and it's gonna run again, to go in this damn truck. I'm pretty much determined. I found some numbers on each side of the block Thermodyne, figured it would decode the year and stuff.

let me no what the numbers are and i can tell you just about everything

I believe i'll go ahead and pull the head, maybe i can just hone her out. Who knows, I wonder what rings and sleeves would be for this thing? Wouldn't bother me about it using a little oil, just not wanting to damage it really bad or wors than what it is. They said it run fine, but hasn't been run in 6 or 7 years. I'll go ahead and start tearing down tomorrow evening, we're takin the boys to see santa claus so i'll be busy. Just hoping the head bolts wont break off, and i can't find a tag on the motor. How do you run the numbers thats on the block? how would you find info i mean?

ill check for sleeves and rings for you head bolts will be fine an overhaul kit is 600 that includes sleeves pistons rings gaskets bearings thats all i can find right now the engine number and serial number are stamped on the right hand side of the block in the upper rear corner

I really appreciate it thermodyne, wonder how it would be to pull the head. Just believe i might go that route, i'm so damn stubborn i don't wanna give up. I just wan't this motor to run and for it to go in this truck. Will the motor be hurt if it is stuck? I've seen people unstick gas motors, but diesel is a whole new thing to me. What i was thinking is pull the head and just go from there, but going the injector route sounds easier. I really appreciate it Thermodyne....

no problem there is a chance the motor will be damaged but if you pull the head and it is realy rusted then just get some sleeves and a set of rings drop the pan and go from there there real easy to work on but like i said set the rack right or you will be in trouble if the sleeves are just a little rust and its soaked with atf or pb then you can hone it out might burn a little oil but its a cheap fix

Anyone know how to unstick a diesel? Got it unloaded tonight, just to find out it's Fu$%*& stuck..I mean seriously i should have checked that but I was promised that it was alright, still my fault, but people that say they are your friends. If I bought it from anyone on here i could trust you guys. Not sure what to do cause i wanted this to work so bad it was unreal. Wanted to hear the 'ol detroit run so bad, but noooooo....I get the royal screwin it seems. I'm not taking it out on the family, just myself. Kinda beyond mad, at the point we're i'm gonna be a real piece of shit to deal with come tuesday. People like Tom, Rob, Thermodyne, and everyone else on here are true friends which is something you don't see anymore. Just had to vent a little, and any ideas, suggestions, or thoughts, or anything in general you guys might have please share. Not being gay or anything, but you guys ever need anything just ask, if i can't get to you i'll help the best i can, cause i feel that's how a true friend should be. I must be off now...as Otherdog would say.

well were all friends here always around to help just sometimes a little slow but anyway i like to use atf to unstick an engine (i have to do that to my lincoln welder it has a 2-71 detroit damn cover blew of over the winter) but ive also seen marvel oil used and diesel but dont no how well it works the atf works as does pb blaster best thank to do is pull the injectors out and pour it down the hole and let it sit keep adding to it for a couple of days and start to work it back and forth dont force it take it slow last thing you want to do is mess up a ring land if that doesnt work youll have to pull the head and thats easy to do 53s dont have head gaskets just o rings for the water holes and a big rubber rope for the out side of the head and the block one thing you want to do is if you pull the head off or the injectors make sure you set the rack right or youll have a RUN AWAY and it ant fun there will be broken pieces every were i have a manual for the 53s so if you need help im here

Rob and Thermodyne,

Both very good points made. My impression so far has been along with Rob's statements; 100% of the air is filtered (to a point/size). But then again, Thermodyne makes a good point with longevity with an oil bath. I have seen too many pieces of new equipment, technology, CAD designing down to the gnat's a$$, that it just can't hold a candle to the old stuff. Guess that is why we are all here with our passion for Mack trucks.

But with everything else the same, as Rob says, "Of course I'm assuming good maintenance practices" is the key to long life of equipment and early detection of problems.

Scott

your right scott it all comes down to proper maintenance both filters are good they each have there applications if you run on the highways the paper is great if you run on the dirt oil bath for long life i also think the oil bath is more quit but i could be wrong

an oil bath airfilter is the best filter you can get they filter far better than a paper filter paper filters dont filter fine dust and when they get dirty its worse they pull the dirt through ive seen it why do you think old motors last so long cause they have an oil bath i now my b is clean with its oil bath

p.s just some useless info volkswagen never put an oil filter on there motors i mean the oil vws and when they were asked why they didnt put an oil filter on they said because it has an oil bath air filter with the oil bath it filters so good that the oil never got dirty ive owned many of vws and never lost a motor my sandrail that sees dirt all its life is still running strong after 11 years so there you go like i said just some useless info

I appreciate it Thermodyne, I didn't think about it till a while later but a 6v motor would be alot heavier. Hope you can venture into something like this also Scott, I found this motor on one heck of a deal and jumped on it. I bought this motor for 100.00 dollars less than a new "rebuilt" Carb would be for my flathead 6, don't get me wrong the flattie is torquey but has 20 less horsepower, motors pretty worn & I would have to spend some serious cash to get everything right. All i really have to do to the detroit is make my motor mounts, fab up a clutch linkage, wire up an alternator, few little small odds and ends, but nothing major though. Might not be fast, but should sound cool and how many old '52 fords have you seen with a detroit? I eally appreciate the help and support from everyone here. Thermodyne It appears you've been around quite a few of these motors

[/quote

yea i have been around them that is what is used mostly on the farm i have 3 6v53 marine motors with alison automatics and chain cases want to put one in a pickup sometime. anytime you need to ask a question im here ill answer it as best i can got a bunch of manuals for these motors

I haven't even checked the rotation, done forgot about these motors turnin both directions. Thanks thermodyne for the info. After thinking about it, i figured if this motor works out, then i'll run it in the truck till i find a 6v motor to stuff in her. The motormounts can't be much different right? 6v motor would be the same length as mine. Would be cool, but who knows this one could be all i need so to speak, would be cool to upgrade over time. Actually I just need to stick with he basics at the moment. Tom i'm a slow backer-upper, i might have to get you to back this thing up at high speeds for me...lol. I really appreciate everyone's help and support. Better thn the other forums i mentioned it on.....we'll as Other Dog say's I must be off

the 6v53 is the same length and height as a 4-53 but is 40 inches wide compared to 27 so need some room for a 6v53 also a 4-53 weighs 1100 and the 6v53 weighs 1400 might just get a 4-53 for an upgrade your choice though now your 3-53 is 33 inchs long and width is 27 inchs and 35 inchs tall

just for refrence it goes as this

engine model

horsepower

rpm

length

width

height

weight

2-71

68

2000

32

27

41

960

3-53

101

2800

33

27

35

965

3-71

113

2100

36

29

41

1525

3-53T

131

2500

33

29

40

1000

4-53

140

2800

39

27

37

1110

4-53T

175

2500

40

32

37

1300

4-71

160

2100

42

29

42

1780

4-717

190

2100

44

31

44

1830

6V-53

216

2800

39

40

37

1485

6V53T

223

2500

39

37

41

1695

6-71

238

2100

54

29

39

2190

6V-71

238

2100

41

39

48

2010

6V-92

276

2100

41

39

47

1960

6V-71T

277

2100

41

40

53

2080

6-71T

285

2100

56

32

50

2240

8V-71

318

2100

47

39

51

2310

6V-92T

322

2100

41

39

52

2005

8V-71T

362

2100

50

40

53

2496

8V-92

368

2100

48

39

51

2345

8V-92T

430

2100

48

39

52

2395

12V-71T

475

2100

60

46

57

3120

12V-92

540

2100

69

47

50

3910

12V-71T

553

2100

70

48

55

3550

16V-71

635

2100

79

45

58

4600

12V-92T

665

2100

68

47

54

4250

16V-71T

725

2100

78

47

58

4800

16V-92

736

2100

79

44

58

4600

12V-149

800

1900

92

57

67

8880

16V-92T

860

2100

79

47

59

4800

16V-92TA

880

2100

79

47

59

4840

12V-149T

1000

1900

91

63

69

9095

16V-149

1060

1900

108

54

68

10540

12V-149T1

1200

1900

91

64

69

9225

16V-149T

1325

1900

109

64

72

10840

16V-149T1

1600

1900

104

64

66

10865

if it runs backwards all you have to do is take the back cover off reset the timing for standard rotation and if i remember right thats it

does look like a 3-53

71 series detroits have center bolt valve covers the bolts look like to hand nobs on top 53 series have the bolts on the sides of the valve covers also 71s have carbon plates on the sides 53s just have a cover were the blower would go

how much do you want for it if you would sell it

anyone have a set of jakes for an end673 in my b63

happy thanksgiving everyone may it be the best holiday you have had

anyone no were i can get one of those 22 inch 10 bolt wheel for my b63 i am missing one

dam that sucks was just trying to get away with using the more common tires

can 22.5 tires fit on the 22 tube type rims was just wondering

it spit out water for a little bit then stoped and was alright i filled it back up and it did the same thing i think it was just over filled i hope

yea it was a fun trip its a my work right now going to run the over head on it fix the air leaks and the pod put some more batts on and strap them down and fix the two tires and i should be good to go

well i drove my b63 home today was a trip allright brake pod started leaking lost all the air backed the brakes off and kept going two tires were flat and wouldnt hold air so she shook all the way couldnt go over 50 mph but she want to go faster had to keep backing off the trottle filled her with water and after i got going it started to leak out the overflow all over the windshield had the hood off so i could keep an eye on things so with all the water on the windows i couldnt see had no power steering because i had no air pressure but she ran good and shifted good even with the out of round tires she was smooth riding but its a long frame rail truck i also lost the batteries on the way even though they were straped down but it was fun let me no what you think

you need new injectors in that old cummins worked on then alot of times and all ways the injectors