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Posts posted by marvgarr
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that should be your brake valve e6 I believe if its leaking out the the rubber flat on the back could be a brake chamber back feeding through or relay valve or the valve it self take some needle nose vise grips and pinch off each supply hose to each brake chamber tell you find it dont use the same vise grips buy four of them if you dont have them already sometimes you have more then one chamber feeding back if the air does not stop remove your signal line to your relay valve and see if there is air coming out of valve through signal port the signal line is from e6 brake valve (the one that is leaking) to the relay valve should be on top of valve if there is no air then I would suspect your brake valve is bad
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maybe a piece of junk got hung up in the low air pressure switch thats what turns the light off are all the tanks 120 psi both primary and secondary might not have air getting to them throught the wet tank bad check valve
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do you mean the brake valve........ what kind of trk....... pics...... could be brake chamber bleading through innner seals in maxi's
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only two ports not a check valve does not hold air in ether direction but seems to limit the air a little when air is put in the direction it was installed does have an arrow took valve apart has big long spring metal disk and in the bottom there is another chamber with a metal ball this valve is in the line from the bake valve to the relay valve for rear brakes this trk does not have front brakes
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love macks sadly I had to sell mine 3 years ago to move the family but always looking for another b model right now I have a 1957 peterbilt 281 234 wb nto cummins spicer 8251 5 spd main spicer 4 spd aux rockwell double reduction rear end 5.91 ratio looking at another 281 a 56 but is in sad shape would love another mack though
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RIP ben bruckners was a good place for parts and service even it was not a mack I delt with bruckners in farmington nm it is a shame he has passed
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I do know there is a lot of axle twist when empty with this suspension but I do like the disign has more axle loading on uneven ground comes in handy with only one drive and a tag
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well I have a nhb cummins non turbo that was turned into a nto 262 by putting on a t50 turbo and a 262 pump from what I heard cummins did this all the time did they change serial numbers on the engine when they converted them my engine serial number does not match my build sheet engine number the build sheet says nto on it and the date code on the engine says 1957 which is what year the truck is
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how hard is it finding parts for the page and page suspension
also anyone know 743 cummins motors like the back of there hand
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Name: mack b63sx (1957)
Date Added: 05 December 2008 - 06:24 AM
Owner: thermodyne b63
Short Description: its rusty but not rusted through good shape long frame and rough riding but its a worker
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hello everyone got a question for you i am buying a 281 pete i know its not a mack but my question is about the hood
that is on this truck its wide and has headlights like the 80s kws had same chrome cover as the old kws put its a
peterbilt hood has all the emblems and everything its just square not needle nose like a 281 should be is this an
aftermarket hood might be better if i get pics but my camera is not working right now i do think its steel as
it was not that heavy when i lifted it up please help its driving me crazy
thanks marvin
ps the specs for this truck are
engine nhb cummins
trans think its a spicer 5 spd not sure
aux trans spicer 4 spd
drive axle eaton douple reduction
tag axle
4000 gal water tank
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how is everyone its been a long time since ive been on here just sent garth a message
to see how my old mack is doing wish i could find one around here love these old
trucks well got to go see you all later
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I have to admit that one of my favorite things to say on the radio to get something started (not that I ever say anything just to get something started-i'm just not that way! ) was "two things that are highly over rated are Peterbilt trucks and Caterpillar engines". Actually the truck I drive now is the first Pete I ever drove, and it's not my favorite.
Drove IHs, an Astro, Macks, Freightliners, and KWs before, most with Cummins engines.
the only cat motors that are any good are the 3406b and the 1693 the clatterpiller thats what i think
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damn dovelopers they will distroy anything in there way of getting some money they dont care what it is or who was there dam shame that it is gone mack should of done something about it
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found a home
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need my mack hauled from waterflow nm to kingman az in may
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hey thermodyne,the smallest fuller you listed was 9 series thats a big box for 3208,here in oz i think we had 6 series,cheers adrian(p.s happy new year to all at bmt)
your probably rite ive only delt with the bigger eatons forgot rob said it was smaller eaton anyway i hate the 3208 engine anyway has no power better to have the 3408 now that a motor just me ramblen on though
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I have this small Fuller nine speed that was originally behind either a 3208 Cat engine, or a 534 V8 gas in a 1982 L8000 "Louisville" Ford truck. There are no tags on the transmission and when the truck burnt from a carb backfire, the diesel was swapped in and I can't remember if the trans was changed or not. Both trucks were very similar except one was gas, the other diesel.
How could one identify this trans as there is no tag on it anywhere.
If it were an automobile trans, the vin number would be stamped into the case but no such number has been found.
Thanks,
Rob
there are only 5 9 speeds that fuller made in 82 they are rt9509 rt12509 rtl1157dl rto1157dll rto11509
did you look at the pad were the number goes and see if it was stamped on there
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I've got several differentials, and transmissions that I plan to service in the near future. All are older with the newest being a 1978, Most are Mack. The exceptions are a single Fuller, (RTO12513), and a Brownie, (6231D), and a set of Rockwell rears.
Would 80W-90 meeting the GL-4 spec be good, or would GL-5 be better? Or a combination of both?
I know Glenn will know this from experience.
Thanks,
Rob
use only 80-90 in those eatons if you want them to last that synthetic crap is no good just alot of money for nothing it maybe great for bobtailing or a box truck or a little end dump but for any heavy hauling use gl5 gear oil we haul some good size loads out here about 160000 lbs we haul double belly dumps 2 full size 15 ton trailers and all we have in the trans is gl5 when i rebuild them i use gl5 in it never had a trany problem thats my 2 cents
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i had a problem like that found out it was a loose rearend yoke and a bad slip yoke havent fixed it yet though been real muddy around here rob has a good point about the tires and drums
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happy b day
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It surely looks good. The ole Mack is glad someone thought enough of it to upgrade some paint on a surface. I'm thinking like rustydog, why not spray alittle on the back? It sure is easy while the panel is out of the truck. Honestly not meaning no harm. I'm also curious as to what color primer you used on the front before you shot the final?
mike
used that rustoleum red primer and hunter green its the closest i could fine to the original paint color im on a budget so you see
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Why didn't you paint the back of the panel???
dont need to not doing a full resto just maken her look nice
Need some advice on truck
in Driveline and Suspension
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kingpins are around 350 depending on were you get them torque rod you replace the whole rod not just the bushings the rod around 150