11 hours ago, 6368 said:

air compressor

 

I should have known that. I guess I was blinded by science.

10 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I've also had to pump my primer a time or three.  If the valve is good, it will pump up quickly and you will feel resistance and feel the fuel as it bleeds back to the tank and that will be enough for it to fire.  No bleeding of any lines.  The primer on my 237 was nonworking when I got the motor.  Unbolt the transfer pump, remove it, then carefully unscrew the primer.  Just a one way check valve, nothing to it.  Mine just needed unstuck and now works fine.

If the truck runs now, try pumping the primer.  If there is resistance, it is fine.  It doesn't take that many pumps to get fuel up from a tank.  20? 30?  Not 100.

When I bought my truck, it didn't go anywhere far until I replaced ALL the lines(fuel and water).  You can buy the line and reuse most fittings( if they are the type).  

The compressor has coolant running through it, thus those two lines.  The rear one might be a pita to reach without removing the pump.  Depends on your wrench selection. 

The coolant lines to the compressor threw me off a bit but it make sense now that I think about it and know for sure what I'm looking at.

They're not worried about toilet paper because they don't use it.

Adding to my confusion. HELP - What is this mark (B) in the attached pictures.

Need lots of tool boxes or another support truck to follow you to carry all the binders and chains to tie everything down on three trialers.

Looks like in the second video the Mack is hauling COWS.

Holly Cow Batman give them dust masks.

Those poor animals will be choked to death by time they get to the slaughter house.

Where's PETA when you need them. People Eat Tasty Animals.

I have a small Skid Steer that had a bad fuel cap that was not venting correctly. As a result the fuel system drew a vacuum and the plastic fuel tank collapsed (puckered) inward on itself. When to tank collapsed the fuel sending until float got stuck in the pucker/squeeze and stopped working. Took a while to figure out WTF. I ran the Skid Steer empty a few times. The fuel gauge always reading 1/2 full. Put fuel in the tank and it only took (5 Gallons) half the amount to fill the 10 gallon tank. WTF?? Finally (dumb ass) took a flash light and looking in the tank. WTF? The Skid Steer tank fix was - I took the old cap and put a tire valve stem in it. I put the cap with the valve on the tank, pressurized the tank and blew it up back in to shape. Got a new cap that was venting correctly and it has been good for the past year or so, knock on wood. 

When the Skid Steer ran empty I'd squeeze a fuel line primer bulb until I felt resistance. If the engine wouldn't start I'd squeeze some more. When the engine would finally start and it sounded like it was going to stall I'd squeeze some more until the engine ran smooooooth. I'm guessing the "WHAT IS THIS" in my original posted pictures is the same theory. Pump until I feel resistance try to start the engine and then pump some more. 

I won't ask - How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop. Because sure as shi_ if anything can go wrong it will be more difficult then expected. NOTHING THE EASY WAY. Will I need to leave a few of the new lines bottom to top loose and have at it and pump away and then tighten loose fitting bottom to top as I see fuel?  Or, do I tightened everything up and pump my nuts off until I feel resistance? I might try the fuel cap trick and gently pressurized the tank with a few pounds of air with some new line fittings loose until I see fuel. Then tighten the fittings and pump. Can I pump while the engine is trying to start or while it running? I don't want to damage anything because the budget is getting thin. I assume there is no lift pump on my truck? The first fuel filter on my truck is located next to the fuel tank behind the rear axle. I have never found the easy button. What a nightmare. I have a remote oil filter canister with oil lines running to the engine. Last year on of those lines took a dump. I like my Mack but what were they thinking with the miles of ALL the oil, fuel, power steering and coolant lines?

I had to take the radiator out of my CF-600 for repairs. While the truck is apart, I am cleaning up the best I can 48 years’ worth of neglect, dirt and grim. I used degreaser and a pressure washer. There was no avoiding using a pressure washer. In some areas under the truck and in the engine compartment the built-up grease and filth was caked on nearly 3/8" thick. I tried my best to avoid nicking any fuel or oil lines, BUT. 

The radiator popped the core as the result of a blown heater hose. I suspect the heater hose was original factory installed. The core was living on borrowed time and was weeping slightly (not leaking) before the heater hose blew. Last year the truck blew an oil line that I caught right away before the truck went up in flames or caused any engine damage. These two experiences and a few other minor incidences have convinced me I need to replace all the hoses, belts, fuel and oil lines to avert further disaster.

I’ve owned the truck for 2-1/2 years, and it’s been a work in progress. I’ve attached pictures. I need to replace these fuel lines shown. I'm guessing these are low pressure lines. When I remove and replace them will I have to do any type of a procedure (crack open an injector or two or three) to bleed the fuel system of air to start the engine.

On 3/5/2020 at 5:20 PM, raybing said:

Yes. Probably 15w40 oil. How cold was it that day?

North Dakota COLD!

Looks like it was driven to the truck wash bay okay and then drove and parked outside. The pooch hasn't pissed oil or pooped a rod yet. I'd guess without seeing or hearing the engine running its a bad gauge or sending unit.

WE (the USA) have become energy independent and Putin has an issue with it. He is trying to exert influence on the Saudis in his effort to control the oil supply chain. All this bull crap should be a wake up call to the US that we should control our own manufacturing in our country and not be so dependent on a world supply chain. FTW. 

14 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

You know that would happen too

It looks like there are handles left and right. It appears you have to pull and hold both handles to raise the lift. I guess if you squish or crush yourself to the bottom of the truck you will eventually render yourself unconscious and release one or both handles.

I've been watching a few videos. One video says only to be used by trained personnel or individuals. I wouldn't be in to much of a hurry coming out from under the truck while on the lift raising it while rolling. You'd have to be conscious to the fact while rolling to be clear from under the truck before raising yourself or you might put a dent in the truck or worse wind up with a dent in your head. **WARNING**  No lifting while rolling while coming out from under the truck.

These things are so expensive probably because of the lawyers they have to keep on retainer and the insurance premium they pay.  

Does the engine have an engine brake?

I'm guessing there's a safety switch or pressure relief valve on the human hoist? I'd hate to crush myself to the bottom of my truck between the frame rails.

11 hours ago, Quickfarms said:

 

 

Is this it?


https://humanhoist.com/

One of the guys in this video is wearing a Mack T-Shirt. 

Would love to have one. It can't be cheap? My old lady said she'd split the expense but then she might expect me to work until I'm 90 if I live that long.

4 hours ago, mackdump600@yahoo.com said:

Hi I have a 70 or 6:08 fire truck that I'm trying to convert to a pickup and running into a snag on putting plates on it does anybody have antique plates over 10000 GVW in Pennsylvania they tell me I can't do it need some help

Who's (they) telling you they can't do it?

On 2/15/2020 at 4:15 PM, tjc transport said:

On 2/16/2020 at 8:43 AM, tjc transport said:

 no more male/female threads. 

 all threads are now universal. 

STORZ FITTINGS.

A F with a C in front

Fahrvergnügen

Because it just sounds COOL.

I don't make friends or shake hands with those types because I heard somewhere that don't us toilet paper when they wipe their ass.

I guess my first mistake was changing the fluids along with coolant when I first got the truck because it was purchased without service records. Stirred up the shi_ as they say. Dissecting and getting deeper into the radiator removal I notice the radiator might have been living on borrowed time. I can now see where the core meets the bottom tank there are signs of corrosion. If there was easy access I might have given a try to pinching off a row to try and by some time and limp around until spring. The truck is stuck outside and the current weather isn't cooperating or conducive to being warm a cozy.  

I've had my CF-600 for 1-1/2 years and its been "time to fix up" since. It has been NOTHING THE EASY WAY.. Have you ever looked at something and say to yourself if I ever need to do that it will be a REAL PITA. Well that is the case with the radiator in my truck. I figured 48 years old perhaps the radiator might be an issue but I was hoping it wouldn't be. Have you ever heard the saying I feel much better since I've given up hope. Well that isn't the case.

I have to be an odd ball and I like to be different but it all come at a cost. The radiator in a CF-600 is in the worst possible place imaginable buried and stuffed in the middle of the truck with no easy access. I guess should consider myself lucky because I've had a choice of about a half dozen different shops to do the re-core when the radiator is finally removed. After a few phone calls and interviews I've narrowed it down to a few shops I'd trust to do the work. Both are not small time operations mom and pop local shops. When I told one smaller shop the radiator has aluminum tanks he had no idea what I was talking about. Next on the list. I don't want to do this job twice and find out after I put the re-cored radiation in the truck it has a leak.

Next on the list of "time to fix up" things that need to be done are the wiper motors. I tried removing the air lines and squirted WD-40 in the motors and air lines before reattaching. No Luck. The wiper might be slightly better but not by much. I looked at that wiper issue for the past 1-1/2 years and was hoping it wouldn't come down to removing and dismantling them but I've given up hope and I still don't feel any better.
   

My CF-600 sprung a radiator leak. Tried to find a new one but no luck. Finding a radiator shop for a re-core isn't to big or a problem at least in my area. Getting the radiator out for repairs is turning out to be a major PITA.