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HugeHugh

BMT Benefactor
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Posts posted by HugeHugh

  1. Thank you Dave and Rob for the great ideas.  I checked the bores where the two needle bearings sit, and the bores are in better shape then I first thought.  The housing bore and the bearing surfaces are not exactly aligned.  Meaning the bearing bores are not in the middle of the housing bore.  Line boring the housing sounds interesting.  I'll take that housing with me when I drop off an AMC 304 V8 for machining, and see what the shop says about the clutch pedal shaft bore.  I can ask about building up and hardening the clutch pedal shaft too.  I found a company in BC Canada, Dendoff, that will make the 2QK2360B springs new for me at a reasonable price.  I don't think my old springs are worth much from a rebuilding standpoint.  Either of you ever buy new rubber pads that hold the springs in the front hanger assembly?  If so, then let me know where you got them.  Thanks again, Earl    

  2. If I was near PA, then I would bring the assembly by for some work.  I don't have a lathe, yet.  It's been on my mind to get one.  I finally removed the two broken cab mount bolts (1/2"-13) from the hanger yesterday.  I need to punch out the remaining bearing shell today.  The clutch shaft is definitely marred.  The shaft bore is a bigger concern.  It looks like the bearings have worn their way into the bore similar to how the leaf spring pin bushings wore into their bore.  I'll know more when I get the remaining bearing shell out and get an unobstructed view.  I'll check into the 660 bronze bushing idea.  I've been thinking bushings could be the best fix for a shaft and bore in this condition.  Definitely not fussy :)  Just looking for an adequate fix for now.       

  3. Anybody know the part number for the two needle bearings that support the clutch pedal shaft on a B61?  The clutch pedal shaft sits in the driver side springhanger.  The bore in the spring hander is 1.5" and the clutch pedal shaft is 1.25" in diameter.  The bearing looks to be about 1" in width.  The needles are about .900" in length.  Anybody replaced these bearings or fixed a situation where the bearings are gone?  The clutch pedal end bearing shell had worn through one side, so it came out with a screwdriver.  The clutch end of the springhanger is where I pulled out the needles in the photo.  The inner bearing shell is gone but the outer shell is stuck in the bore but good.  Thanks.

     

    I searched by the sizes I reported and vxb.com has a SCE2020 that is 1.25 x 1.5 x 1.25 that might work.  

    clutch_end_bearing_shell.jpg

    clutchpedalshaft1.jpg

    clutchpedalshaft2.jpg

    clutchpedalshaft3.jpg

    needlebearings.jpg

    outside_bearing_shell.jpg

  4. Okay.  It's been a few weeks and I've made progress.  The 24" air hammer bit gave me enough angle to drive out the right side pin.  That pin was spinning in the hanger from the start.  The air hammer bit didn't do diddly to the left side pin.  I bought 8" and 12" C clamps and they had promise but wouldn't budge the left side pin more than 1/8".  I was tempted to get a 40,000 psi 12" bridge C clamp and see what that would do, but decided I don't want a #50 C clamp lying around after all this is done.  I decided removing the spring hanger and then the pin was the path for me.  Today I was successful.  Here are some pics.  I used a 1" round bar and a #4 sledge to drive the pin from the left side hanger.  It took 20 minutes of banging the heck out of it and all the way to the end before it fell out.  I'll get all this cleaned up and find a good truck spring shop in the Houston, TX area to rebush and otherwise get me good springs.  No more left side sag or worrying about the left front spring breaking!  I'm liking that.  I have the chance to clean up the clutch linkage as a bonus.

    driversidespringandhanger4.jpg

    driversidespringandhanger3.jpg

    driversidespringandhanger2.jpg

    driversidespringandhanger1.jpg

    driversidespringhangerclutchlinkage1.jpg

    driversidespringhanger4.jpg

    driversidespringhanger3.jpg

    driversidespringhanger2.jpg

    driversidespringhanger1.jpg

    leftsideslipperpad.jpg

    rightsidespringslipperpadbroken.jpg

    frontleafsprings2.jpg

    driversidesecondaryleafbroken1.jpg

    frontleafsprings1.jpg

  5. On 3/21/2021 at 4:46 PM, Rob said:

    I made a deep receiving socket from a piece of 2" round stock and used a very large "C" clamp years ago. I subsequently replaced the clamp with a 2" push port o power cylinder and will still use it if needed. Just have to stack nuts inside the cavity vacated by the pin as it's pushed free. Otherwise yes, remove the spring hanger.

    While that pin is out, ensure that hole on both ends is still round as I've seen them worn elliptical.

    I'm glad to know that a "C" clamp might be enough.  I dug out my port-a-power unit to see how I can make it work.  Thank you Rob.

  6. I'm removing the front leaf springs on my B61 and I hit a hurdle on the greasable pins.  There isn't much room between the starter and the back side of the right pin.  There isn't much room between the engine and the left side pin either.  The right side pin will at least spin.  I have a long air hammer bit coming to see if that will knock it out.  The left side pin doesn't move yet.  It sounds like the entire hanger has to come out of truck in order to remove the pins when the pin is really stuck.  Any other worthwhile ideas to get those pins out?    

    left_front_spring_hanger_inside_pin.jpg

    left_front_spring_hanger_pin.jpg

    right_front_spring_hanger_pin.jpg

  7. Here is a pic of a broken left front center leaf on a 1963 B61T.  I only use the truck on my property so this won’t get fixed for a while.  I’d like to here recommended solutions.  Buying a used spring from someone parting a truck versus taking the spring to a spring shop.  

    4A4DA562-047E-4031-A4AD-B22926ED44DD.jpeg

  8. After I cleaned off the dirt, I found a Garrison 2001-10-x0 as the power assist steering valve.  The Garrison rep says no metal parts are available for the valve.  The pump is an Eaton "U" model pump with cylindrical steel vanes.  The pressure relief poppet was installed backwards in the pump and that is why the power assist steering wasn't working.  There is leak in the steering valve that I need to evaluate but the power assist is functioning.  I will check with Steering Re-builders and Truck Parts in Cleveland, TX to see what they offer.  Anyone familiar with Garrison know what the two numbers below the model number designate.  My valve has 5  72.  Do you think that is a manufacture date of May 1972?  

    garrison_2001-10-x0_value.jpg

  9. I just found this post as I begin working on my 1963 B61T power steering and I thought I would jump in here. 

    My B61T has a small belt driven pump mounted high up on the left side of the engine.  The two hydraulic pump lines run to and from a proportioning valve that is the link between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle.  Two more hydraulic lines from the the proportioning valve run to and from the power assist cylinder that runs parallel to and on the back side of the front axle.  I don't have any power assist in the steering at this time and I suspect the hydraulic pump isn't doing any work.  I will confirm that when my hydraulic test kit arrives this Friday.  There is a noticeable leak in the proportioning valve so I expect to rebuild that soon.  Has anyone seen this setup?  Neither my Mack service manual nor my Mack parts book shows any power steering options.  The only nod to power steering is the mention of ST-A (Hydraulic Steering Fluid) "Use Type "A" Suffix "A" Automatic Transmission Fluid" in the lubricants section of the manuals .  I'm  hoping to find Mack part numbers when I remove the proportioning valve this weekend.    

  10. I'm looking for a Braden H2 vertical mount hanger bearing with the input and output shafts on the same side.  The speed shifter can be on either side of the gear box frame.  The one that I have has the yoke and the sprocket welded to the bearing shafts and the case has been broken and welded back together.

    Thanks

    braden_h2_image.jpg

    bradenH2hangingbearing.JPG

  11. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of SAE 90 and started filling the transmission.  In about 10 minutes the leak appeared in the PTO assembly on the side of the transmission.  One of the drain plugs was missing from the PTO and the other one was only 1/2 way screwed in.  I replaced the missing drain plug and secured in the other one and finished filling the transmission.  I checked the rear axle and it was empty too.  I suspect someone in the past needed gear oil and decided to drain it from this truck as it sat unused.    

  12. I tend to takes things literally and that's why I was asking.  I figured 50 years of lubricant development may have created suitable substitutes to a 1960's SAE 140 mineral oil.

    The red oil that came out of the transmission was much thicker than any ATF I've seen, but the color was similar. 

    Thanks

     

     

  13. I drained the transmission and compound unit oil from my 1964 B61 5 speed.  1.5 pints of  clean red oil came out.  I can only guess why a prior owner or technician would do that.  The oil looked unused.  The magnetic plug showed signs of use as the photos show.  The Mack operator's manual specifies SAE 140 Straight Mineral Oil where the ambient temperature is above 50 F.   My local NAPA store carries a SAE 90 Mineral Oil but not the 140.  I can get SAE 140 Mineral Oil online and maybe from a local oil supplier.  I read online that the EP additives are not good for the yellow metals in the transmission so I'm staying away from that. 

    Is there a modern gear oil that is as good as the mineral oil Mack specified back in the 60's?

    Thanks

    gearoil_servicemanual.jpg

     

    trans_magnetic_plug_dirty1.JPG

    trans_magnetic_plug_clean2.JPG

  14. Nice paint job and great work on the door. I am rebuilding two doors on a 64 B61 and I would appreciate information on window channel suppliers.  My driver side door hinges are in poor shape and I could use advice on repairing those.  I found who Watt’s is and their B model roll up window channel.  http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_75

    Better slow than not moving at all.👍

    Thanks

  15. I just took my doors apart on a 64 B61 and I will post photos tomorrow.  It should be a right of passage when you remove your first door panel without breaking anything.   Here are the photos I promised.  The door latch spring is a single roll of approx. 1/4" steel spring steel.  You can open two tabs to disassemble the latch and get to the spring.  To clean and lube the spring without removing the door panel, you need to use the opening where the latch hook resides.  The spring is replaceable, but you have have to remove the door panel and replace a rivet.   

     

     

    doorlatchlubepoint.JPG

    doorlatch_tabs.JPG

    doorlatch_spring.JPG

    • Like 1
  16. I finally got back to town and got a little quality time with the B61.  The compound shifter linkage has been cleaned and reassembled and it shifts like butter.

    There was a piece of steel between the rear clevis and the transmission housing that was keeping the rail from traveling backwards.  I assume the piece of steel fell through the hole for the series-parallel switch or the hole for the PTO shifter.  Here is a photo of some of what I found in the dirt packed around the compound shifter linkage.  Now to get the passenger door to open.  

    Thanks again for the advice. 

    Compound_Shifter_Jammed.JPG

    • Like 2
  17. On 4/14/2018 at 7:49 AM, Rob said:

    I have a tri-plex trans out of a truck setting on my woodpile inside the shop I can photograph if you like. Been setting there for years and is my spare. It would show you the area unencumbered by a truck.....

    Thanks Rob.  I pulled the floorboard to get better access.  I need to get to the treadle lines anyway.  This project is part mechanical and part archaeological dig.  I wonder quite a bit if this truck was ever parked in an West Texas river for a time.  It has dirt everywhere.  I think this truck spent much of its time in the West Texas oil fields, but it is hard to imagine even 50 years in West Texas could accumulate this much dirt.  The compound shifter is removed.  The Lo-Split, inside rail, is stuck inside the shifter and doesn't move.  I have it soaking in diesel.  I used the fine oxide sandpaper to clean the rust off as best I can.  The Hi-Split, outside rail, came out of the shifter fairly easily.  

    Is there any way to tell if the Lo-Split on the transmission will move without reinstalling the compound stick assembly.  I'm not sure how much force is needed to make it move, but given the size of the shift stick, it could take more force than can be applied without the stick.  

    That is an ancient empty pack of Marlboro Lights in the third photo.  It is between the transmission and the Lo-Split linkage.

    compound_shift_wo_floorboard_1.JPG

    floor_board_out_before_cleanup.JPG

    compound_hisplit_clevis.JPG

    compound_shifter_5.JPG

    • Like 1
  18. I appreciate the advice. I took the seat out this evening. It weighs a bit more than I expected. I removed all but two of the floorboard bolts. A storm came through and I lost my light. I can see the compound rails surrounded by dirt through the series-parallel switch opening.  I will get in there and learn more tomorrow. 

  19. I finally got to the compound shifter.  I removed the 4 cap screws holding the shifter.  The shifter, once removed, is stiff but does move.  I used a small vacuum to get out some of the dirt. 

    The rails look like the compound drive is in Lo-Split.

    I greased the zerk fitting and applied cleaner to the rails.  The left hand rail, for the Hi-Split and Direct, seems free and will move.  The right hand rail, for the Lo-Split, is firmly set and hasn't budged.  

    My next step is to remove the floor panel so I can get better access to the top of the transmission.

    I have a PTO drive to service with a drive chain that needs to soak in diesel for a couple of days so I'm going to do that while I see what advice comes my way.  :)

    Thanks 

    Compound_Shifter1.JPG

    Compound_Shifter2.JPG

    Shifter_Before.JPG

  20. Hi Rob,  After searching the web for a while, I agree with you about a new style fuel filter.  The old Mack parts are not overflowing from the internet shelves and the original parts that are out there can be used by guys doing true restorations.  

    I like using original parts when I can, but frankly, it will take more dollars than I have to restore this truck to its original glory.     

     

    Thanks

     

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