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About ChicagoJohn

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  1. So I've had my emissions fixed awhile ago. The truck now has the head go bad, but it's not because the delete. Truck has 900,000, so it's about time. Since I need a new head and cam, I'm doing a full inframe also. Here's my question. Mack is saying that having the dpf deleted is fine, but I should have the ecm programmed to keep the EGR functional. Reason being is that it helps with cooling. (EGR is currently capped off). Does this sound right? I thought with the EGR working it would send hot exhaust gas back into the motor and it would be less efficient, but the Mack mechanic is saying it's just the opposite. Can anyone shed some light on this?
  2. You sure it's the core that's leaking and not a fitting? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yes. I had regen issues so I had it all deleted. But more then that, 08-10 MP8 & D13 motors have injector & injector harness issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. To update, I tested an the probes with an ohm meter. I ended up changing the larger one before the dpf housing. My gauge still isn't working. So I'm wondering if either I need to replace another sensor or am I suppose to clear the codes before it'll start working. I'm showing a fault code 140 pid/sid 173- exhaust has temp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So I just had People net installed and it shows the motors fault codes. I wonder if anyone knows what the codes are? I know the 1st one's (that can't be fixed for other reasons) It's the 2nd code I dont know what it is. The 3rd I'm working on, but can't seem to fix it and the last 2 I believe have to do with my bendex system, I need to have my stearing angle sensor re-calibrated. Anyone know what the pid/sid 70 code is? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Remember what 220Cummins says, I almost had a dealer update the ECM. That would of been bad.
  7. So I started to test the different plugs and then got side tracked yesterday. So, I thought I'd post pics off every probe I have and see if anyone knows. This first one is coming out of the EGR cooler, so I know it's not that one. This I believe is the 7th injector. Here's where it gets murky. This probe is after the 7th injector, but before the dpf tower. Here's the side of the dpf filter, which has 4 probes. This one is immediately after the dpf filter. And lastly this one is father back in the exhaust pipe before the Y split for the exhaust stacks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I was thinking the same thing. At first I thought it was a computer issue because I had the dpf delete, but after digging through the computer, w found the setting and made sure it was turn on. I'm not getting any fault code, but the wire looks a little worn. I do have the stand up dpf that's under the passenger door. A shop said I should use an ohm tester and see it I get a reading. I was going to try that when I had a chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 3 months ago I had to replace all 6 injectors and cups on my 08. They were original with the copper cups and 2 were cracked. Everyone seems suprised that I got 825,000 on the originals.
  10. I did it and it was a nightmare to have done (it took 3 weeks to get it right), but it's been a year since and I love it. I don't go into Canada or California, so no one really cares.
  11. I have been to my Mack dealer 3 times trying to figure out which probe is the correct one to power the exhaust temp gauge. There's like 4 different probes on the exhaust pipe. Anyone ever change one and know which probe to change? There's one right behind the turbo, one before the dpf canister, and another after the canister and lastly one on the pipe after the EGR cooler. I know it's not the one after the EGR cooler. I was thinking it was the one after the dpf system since the gauge showed hot during a regen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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