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Posts posted by 6368
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On 4/1/2020 at 4:06 PM, kt_Engineer said:
CRD125/126,CRD150/151, CRD180/181, CRD92/93 & CRD112/113 will fit into any axle housing all the way from 38,000 to 58,000 lbs GAWR. So yes, you can take the differential from 58,000 lbs axle and put it in a 46,000 lb housing.
Good to know that they will bolt in. What about compatibility with different side gears and axles/splines? Please share more info about which ones are the same.
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the carriers are different numbers 92/93 vs. 112/113. the easy way out is to sell the 58,000 and buy what you want. IMHO you won't be gaining much in comfort. i run 58k camel back everyday and don't think they ride any worse than 44k/46k.
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On 3/17/2020 at 10:19 PM, Red Horse said:
12R-24 rear tires???
Are the question marks related to the nomenclature? 12.00r24 . I was recently scolded by the tire salesman when i asked for 11r24 tires. he tried to get me 11r24.5 tires. when i told him that was not what i wanted. He says " you mean 11 hunderd R 24".
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On 3/18/2020 at 10:10 AM, kscarbel2 said:
Nobody hated Rockwell's "Stopmaster" wedge-type brakes back in the 1970's and 1980's more than me. Nobody.
However, the modern European wedge brakes actually work well. Solid performance, lower cost and lighter weight wheel ends.
Can you elaborate as to the disadvantages of stopmaster brakes? I have them on two trucks but i'am not an expert. The first truck( 361 brockway) has served me well but i just got the second one( DM685).
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1 hour ago, kscarbel2 said:
No mention of it on the website..................https://www.macktrucks.com/powertrain-and-suspensions/axles/
not much information there about anything really
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21 hours ago, Rob said:
All trucks I've been around using a voltmeter are not wired through any relay and B+ is applied at all times. Easily changed to suit but I've never seen one originally like that myself in the now antique trucks.
My 81 RD and any newer macks i have been in it activates only with the key on. I was only concerned about the small current draw ... not much i know but the truck may sit for extended periods of time. If i don't wire it through the relay i will probable just install a master disconnect ( probably a better option anyway).
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i'am working on a 1975 dm685sx . The volt gauge is always on. i checked the wiring diagram i have and it does not showthe gauge to be wired through the relay that comes on with the key. This doesn't seam right to me..is it?
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air compressor
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my 87 has the two stick 6pd
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and those drive tires look small
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On 8/21/2019 at 9:00 PM, JoeH said:
Good fleet; I'm partial to the green Mack's hood.
Interesting how we all like different things. i much prefer the pre-facelift hood. I do wish the 87 RD had the air-ride cab that the green one has though.
Not exactly sure why but The superliner rides like a cadillac compared to the other two.
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1 hour ago, JoeH said:
Is the 87 a 2 valve or 4 valve?
4vh it is
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21 minutes ago, JoeH said:
I have a 1988 RD690S with an em6-300L
You know whats funny so do i. What a dummy. well i'll change my answer rd-690 is a maxidyne made after 1987. seriously i have an 87 rd686 and the remnants of a 88 rd690 only big difference is 88 has a em6-300L and t2060 and the 87 has em6-300 and a TRXL107
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On 8/17/2019 at 12:30 PM, JoeH said:
68"5" was the 237hp variant of the 672 cu inch 2 valve diesel,
68"6" was the 283 hp variant of the 672 cu inch 2 valve diesel,
68"8" is a non maxidyne engine, commonly rated at 350 hp, designation used both on E6 motors and E7 motors
6"90" was the maxidyne version of the E6 and E7 motors.
The E6 uses the same 672 cu inch block as the old endt676 motors of the R685 and R686. Probably minor internal block changes typical over years of running the same engine. The E6 used 4 valves per cylinders, whereas the ENDT675&6 used 2 valves per cylinder. So they have different heads.
I think you are close but not quite.
685=237
686= maxidyne 6 cylinder with intercooling( tip turbine or cmcac) before e7. This number was used on two and four valve engines
690= maxidyne e7
688 = econodyne
an S after these number indicates tandem drive
These numbers are humbly submitted from my own experience/memory i welcome any correction .
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No answers for you, but i would be curious to know.. if you started two qts. low( should be half way between add and full) and ran the steep route . would it continue to loose oil?
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Good Luck with your new truck
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Easy way to check ground . Run the alligator clip end of your test light back to the battery box (or starter) and hook it to positive. Now check your wire with it. Once you have established whether you have ground or not everything will be easier. Also never take wire colors for granted ..check everything. leds only work one way( unlike an incandescent bulb) so make sure they are not hooked up backwards.
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Nice Truck. I personally wouldn't be able to value it for you: however, When you are able to put a price on it please post it back on here . i'am sure that there will be interest on this site.
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Does the axle shaft you removed match the bolt patter on the hubs they sent you? also what bearings did they send you . Most 38, 40, 44 have a 3.750 id on the inner bearing ...yours 3.6250
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Thats what i was thinking it would look like. I believe that is 44000 with stud pilot.
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Sorry , the end of the shaft where the six nuts go
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please post a pic of the axle end
Wheel seal part numbers
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
Should be your info under #52