jzack

Yes, That is what I would try. Let us Bull Dogs hear back from you.

mike

Today I put some graphite-oil in every nook and cranny of my steering column and wow, that made a big difference. There is still a little howling, but now its much quieter.

Thanks, Jeff.

Thanks for the advice guys. I actually recently took the shaft out to replace both u-joints. On re-assembly I did grease all zerks and packed the slider mechanism. It's not low on PS fluid, however there is a small leak on top of the gearbox at the shaft input. I only need to add oil maybe every 2 or 3 months though.

Mike- are you talking about lubing the shaft on the coloumn right below the steering wheel? Maybe I'll try that.

Just recently my steering wheel has started howling or whining during slow turns. Used to only do it when hitting the left or right lock. Can anyone tell me what causes this and if I should be concerned?

Thanks, Jeff.

Thanks Glenn. So 4valves have more power but 2valves are indestructible. I'm assuming most recent diesels (i.e. E7) are all 4valve. Right?

Could one of the great Mack experts on this site please explain which Mack motors came with 4v or had the 4v option. What's the difference? Is it like gas engines where the 4v is generally more efficient.

I'm specifically interested in the E7's. I currently own a 94 E7 350 and am looking at a 93 E7 350 where the owner lists it as a "350 4valve". The 94 is electronic while the 93 I believe is mechanical (if that makes a difference).

Any help is greatly appreciated!

94 E-7 350HP w/Blixxton module. Pulling flat-bed empty on return trips-- 7.4 MPG