cpgeneration

15 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

What seems to be the issue with getting it in? Hardest part is getting old one out. 

The old one removed itself and was off and floating around, i will ask the driver how he managed to make it come out... but i already know, big dent in the floor board where the pedal stopped.. makes it even worse that it is a quad box the hole is the size of a postage stamp..

Does anyone know the secret to installing a Haldex swing style clutch brake with the crazy upside down Mack fork in the way ?? Bell housing hole needs a rework with a sawzall...!!!😵

after 2 hours i fell asleep under there and never did get it in.

Thank You.

That truck looks like a DM 600 with that short nose, nicer to drive than an 800 bounces a little more than an 800 on the bridge joints.

Andy, I did not see that that post was from 2018. hope you are getting along on the 700 still fighting the cab air lines here.

frank

I think 1970 not sure, that is a long time ago to remember...

I guess I was not the only one !!  get support # 25162389 drill the cross bar and bolt it if the holes are not in the right position, i went thru hell before I got the support bracket.

Also Just went through a whole day of looking for a door grommet that did not exist, used the plastic around the tube and wire.

slips back and forth fine into the door side.

Frank

On 6/10/2019 at 4:53 PM, fxfymn said:

The pics are over 50 years old. The owner has long since passed on and I have no idea where the trucks ended up. But, I would not be surprised to find out that they are in someone's collection; probably with another paint scheme.

I also assume the weight laws are a little stricter than they were back in the day. I don't think anyone is loading D-8 sized dozers on a single axle tractor these days like they did regularly when these were taken.

Red sold those B models to Joe Gringeri from Watertown when he closed up, I did some low bed work for Joe years ago and drove some of those B models, they were super heavy spec with winch's mounted behind the cab and boy were they were slow !!! but they would pull a house over. When Gringeri closed the Watertown operation down I never saw those trucks again.

Thank you...

I will try that.

your truck looks Great, trying to finish my cab and dash in the ground before i lift it on

it is a lot easier to get in and out, i actually left the windshields out until the wiring and dash are done, can lean in standing up in front not upside down.

frank

On 4/4/2019 at 11:20 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

As in the moulded plastic type ?

Paul 

yep  i will have one here in a few days

Nice Job !!!!!!!

1 hour ago, Macktruckman said:

Gray or black would be nice as the rest of the interior is now gray

I have a Beige that was in my R model but I ended up changing the whole dash i found a brand new one in the box, was not cheap but mine looked like a buzz saw hit it multiple times.

New r model headliners beige call  Barry he can get them  888-304-6225   mack

On 3/9/2019 at 6:11 PM, Macktruckman said:

My r model dash needs help. I can make new gauge panels and the cover over the speedo and tach is ok but there is cracks on the main parts. Naturally the parts that aren’t easily remade. I would be happy with a dash topper or cover like those velour toppers they make for automobiles if anyone knows of a source or has ideas. Thank you 

what color ?

Does anyone know where to source the ID labels that go into the small rectangular id boxes that the fiber optic attaches to in an R model ?

mine are so bad that you can't even make out the letters. part number would be great but I highly doubt they are still available.

Thank You

r/e  R model dash parts, I recently purchased a beige new dash from Mack... it was in stock.. arrived in 2 days.

are they no longer available ?

On ‎9‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 2:55 PM, ranchhopper said:

I finally got rid of the original axles and reyco suspension everything is stripped off the frame from the fuel tanks back I primed everything with POR-15 and gave it a coat of black enamel paint. The aluminum frame had some severe electrolysis under the spring hangers, equalizers and fifth wheel frame which were ground down and sandblasted the had filler put in to lever things out. I can still see where the spring hangers were but no where near as bad as it was I have to roll the camelback suspension under it after it dries then shim it and bolt it tight.

looks great Kevin,,

Thank you.

this whole project has been a puzzle... with pieces missing..

thanks for your help..

You might want to try to remove the inner fender, the 2016 2500 and 3500's need the inner fender panel removed to change out the diesel fuel

filter. there is a company that makes a plastic piece that you can put in after the inner fender is cut so you don't have to remove the inner again to change the filter.

something like that may let you get at that plug with less trouble than the moron's designed in to the spark plug change.

could try it from the bottom too.

Have a 1974 R model with a 350 cummins engine. the front mount rubbers are 2 piece the upper is close to 4 inches in diameter steps to 2.250 diameter and then down to 1.250 dia with a .875 hole in the sleeve.

 The lower is 3.750 diameter 1.125 thick id hole on the lower is 1.250 to allow it to mate with the upper mount. bolts together with .875 cap screw and large washers to crush it up. there are 2 of these mounts between the front engine mount and the cradle on the front cross member.

build record does not show these mounts for what ever reason, might have been built on Friday afternoon or day before Christmas vacation.

if anyone has a like truck with this style mount could you give me the part numbers of the rubbers or your chassis number so I can get some rubbers from

Barry...

Thank you.

R-700 front mount rubber drawing.pdf

I might be an old guy but !! I don't think that on that nice B model I would chance it..

where do you get spindles for that truck ??

I am currently working on a R model that was ready to go ( next joke please ) it is like pulling teeth getting parts for that.

I would not want to think of finding new parts for a B......

Pack bearing, wheel and cover as original,,  as per manual you will not be sorry..

how old is the truck ?

have there been any wheel problems ?

get the Idea that I have ?

if it works why change it now..

OOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH  Nice toys

that was all that I was worried about, when you said you were a machinist it all went away... glad it worked out well for you..

R/E Flywheel and crankshaft.

·        You might want to look into a insert such as a Time Cert I do not know if the web of the crank flange would be deep enough to install them.

They are real strong and this would allow you to go back down to the .625 bolt size.

Do not get the time cert confused with a Heli coil they have a more robust system, I have used them on different repairs and have had great results.

on the other side, if when cut the .750 flywheel bolt hole has sufficient material left and the holes in the flywheel can be bored on the correct bolt circle and finished size that would also work.

You might have to ream them to finish size of the bolt shoulder diameter. the fit in that area is critical the flywheel needs the correct fit to the bolt shoulder in addition to correct clamping force to the crank flange..   A local truck machine shop could set it up on a Bridgeport with a rotary table and do the cutting for you.

I wish my shop was bigger,,,,,, I could see myself driving that nice truck....