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Vlad; I believe any of the gas engines that are designated with the "F" at the end of the engine model number have the dual ignition heads. Mack used the EN510 and EN510A in OTR trucks as well which do not have the dual spark plug heads. The main reason I bought the engine when I had the chance was because it was  a fire service engine and the heads are damn near impossible to find.

Who knew I was clairvoyant? 

On 9/8/2021 at 8:17 PM, yarnall said:

Carl, are you bidding on this?  Harvey Eckert send me info on it the last time it sold.  It was out of my price range then too.  Mike 

Only if you want a roommate since a divorce would be imminent. 

Sold for $90,500.00 plus 5% premium

It came from Texas originally.

If you click on the link it will give you the history.

My old reliable is to shoot WD-40 into the intake. It will run on it and it will not damage the engine as starting fluid may. 

I had the same problem with my 52 Type 75A. I added a remote tank under the passenger seat that is plumbed to a replacement cap that I threaded a hose barb into. Here is a link to the tank: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G35Q3U/?coliid=I1ZCP2O7IVJ7A9&colid=K1HH1OB1LY8D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it. 

Sometimes a set screw is put into the adapter to keep it from turning as the sleeve is removed. Check around the adapter to make sure that is not the case. And looking at the pic it looks like a screw or pin at the 6 o'clock position which may be just that.

That is brass; keep the heat low on the brass or it may come off in a way you did not want.

You may be able to find a hydrant wrench with the pin style hooks on it that will fit the ears on the adapter. Given how close the adapter is to the sheet metal you may have to drill a small hole in the adapter where the threads are to get the penetrating oil in.

Even though it seems counter intuitive to heat and expand the pipe that the adapter is screwed on to that is what I would do. Heat it, let it cool, oil it up, let it stand for a while and try it. Do it again if its still stuck. As the ferrous part expands and contracts it will break up the rust that is holding it.

'

I am almost positive that truck came from Franconia, VA and the Mt. Vernon is probably George Washington's estate.

Still have it?

Unless you are planning on putting the L back in service I'd leave well enough alone. Today's oils are far better than what it used for most of it's life and should keep it as clean as it needs to be for the use you give it. It made it these 60 plus years as is and IMO when you start screwing around with the lube system you are playing russian roulette with the engine.

Matt Pfahl had one at one time. You might give him a call.

Thanks. Actually I do pretty well with the long ago; just don;t ask me what I had for breakfast today.

Gary Mahan has had reproduction tanks made. Might be worth checking with him.

"Red sold those B models to Joe Gringeri from Watertown when he closed up,"

Do you remember the year Red sold out? 

Nice rig I hope you get it on the road in time to make it to the September show in Winchester. If you are still looking to get the gold leaf done for the fenders I'd check with Larry Spangler in Hanover, PA. (717) 637-6990

1 hour ago, james j neiweem said:

Like them all. Well cared for.  Working?

The pics are over 50 years old. The owner has long since passed on and I have no idea where the trucks ended up. But, I would not be surprised to find out that they are in someone's collection; probably with another paint scheme.

I also assume the weight laws are a little stricter than they were back in the day. I don't think anyone is loading D-8 sized dozers on a single axle tractor these days like they did regularly when these were taken.

I'll be at Macungie. Thanks.

They must be doing something right.

13 hours ago, gxbxc said:

Did any one notice that snow mobile parked next to it ,Now that looks like something to restore.

No, but the sign made me wonder about why you would advertise that your children were slow.

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I MADE NO MENTION OF THAT OR EVEN HINTED AT THAT. SO DON'T BAIT.

Sorry Paul, I did not mean that personally, just as a broad reference to what folks use as a standard reply. No offense intended.

But I stand by my comments. Poor employee performance is not wholly the employee's fault, but is mostly a (poor) management issue.

This is the antidote to all the naysayers who think this country is at the end of the line. A hard working kid who is willing to take a risk and make an idea work. I hope he is successful. 

Mike, open means that the wire is broken inside. A coil is just two wires wound around a core with one wire supplied by a 12v current  that builds up a magnetic field. When the points open the field collapses and induces a higher voltage, lower amperage, current in the other wire which then goes to fire the spark plug. Based on the description my guess is the insulation on the primary wire has failed thus shortening the length of the coil and resulting in a weak spark. The tech should put an ohm meter across the leads to check for the proper resistance just to make sure it is the coil and not something else in the system.

Try PMing Steelman. He has a few AC's and he bought NOS from dealers back in the day so you never know. His phone number is 540-373-5983. Ask for Carey.

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Matt Pfahl said they will cut open the old coils and put a new one inside but mine is not the same shape

You can use almost any 12v coil, not just the one you have now. A smaller one like the ones used on cars and trucks from the 40's to the 70's should work. Ask Matt what coil he uses.

I'm sure Gary Mahan will have one and Matt Pfahl probably has one as well. If not the first place I'd try is one of the shops that specializes in rebuilding magnetos. 

Push comes to shove an ignition coil is an ignition coil as long as the input voltage is 12v any coil will produce a spark. I assume you have checked for continuity and resistance in the coil to ensure it is actually open.