Hans Remmers

2 minutes ago, Vmac3 said:

I am pretty sure those engines had sealing washers on those injectors. They are probably stuck to the underside of the injector or still in the cup. 

v

I thought they did until I tried knocking it off the worst injector and then cleaned it to realize it was just a housing step.  I checked the cups, nothing.  So I studied the manual and found the earliest cups had a lip in the bottom and didn't use washers.  I've never seen this on any engine, probably why they failed.

I ordered a cup tooling kit on ebay, only $260, as long as it works for 1 job thats cheap enough.

Thanks

I'm having flashbacks to 2005 when we put our DM dump back on the road with a set of 44's we never used.  It kept blowing 1 wheel seal daily being done by our regular mechanic.  I assembled it without a wheel seal and was checking if it ran true rotating with a dial indicator, the needle wildly jumped and I realized the plug welds were broke loose and it was chucking in the seal ring!

I pulled the injectors on the 04 epa engine I mentioned in another thread.  It has a complete combustion blowout into the fuel gallery on #6 and some leakage apparent on other cylinders as well.  These are the old cups that did not use sealing washers at the nozzles.  Any recommendations for repair and the tooling I'll absolutely need to complete this?  Is cup swaging absolutely necessary?  Should I replace all 6?  So far all I have for parts is o-ring kits and 1 injector.  V said this vintage wasn't problematic like the latter so I'm looking for suggestions.

I know there are always corners that can be cut but I don't want to be too risky.  This is the only modern Volvo/Mack I have to work on at all so I don't want to get a bunch of tooling I'll only use one time in my life.

That looks like a Saulsbury body?  Can we get some interior shots?  I'm amazed by the massive cab doors and curious what the inside looks like.  I hope the lower cabinet rust isn't as deep as it looks like it could be.  This truck needs to end up in the hands of somebody like Matt Pfahl.

I need to ask my parts guy from Peterbilt about them.  He works a half mile from this yard, he worked at Albany Mack through the 90's and early 2000's.  The MB and a couple U's up front haven't moved in 20+ years.  My step-grandfather was always looking for parts and trucks for us and nothing was ever for sale here.  For years I thought the MB had a for sale sign in it, not a keep out sign.  They are still in business and have some CH's and Visions hauling freight.

4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

just for kicks,  is the crank pully worn out?  I have replaced a few of them due to wear, and a couple of them were splitting..  However, MarkT makes a good point...  jojo

I've seen one rot and fall completely off the engine.  On a truck with minimal rust.

8 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

How is the suction side of the fuel system? You may want to do some trouble shooting first. They did have issues with the fuel return check valve getting stuck open. Is the check engine light on when this happens? May be a cam or crank sensor. 

Just sayin.

V

Replaced main suction line, isolated each tank, replaced filter housing(complete), transfer pump and overflow valve.  Basically everything external with the exception of the stupid euro swage lock banjo lines.  It will lose prime shut off and when you accelerate hard, but not always, sometimes runs perfect.  If you back out early enough and let it idle it will recover on its own, but if you try to just drive through it, it will lose prime and quit.  Always refires with just hand priming.  Low fuel pressure code when acts up and had #5 injector fault prior to harness replacement.  Was about to pull it apart and found bare injector wires touching near connector.  Has since thrown a #4 injector mechanical not responding once.  I've never gotten any further into this engine since we got it 4 years ago.  Are injector cups the next best step forward?

Anyways, back on topic of this thread, for a little morphodite bastard pup, prior to this issue its been a great truck.  It struggled with its stock 365hp backed by the mutant extended range 10 speed with its NY legal 24 ton.  Poor truck was built for tonnage, have 3 Cat powered 550hp dumps that can't get the tonnage this does.  I put in a TS performance module 3 years ago and it helped quite a bit and it still gets great mileage.  Almost double that of the 18 speed backed Acert Paystar.

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

yes sir,, 'V' and 'Fjh'  as well...  

I have one of these engines in an 07 Ctp713.  EGR only, nothing else.  I've been chasing an issue with it losing prime under a load and its driving me nuts.  Its very unpredictable and sometimes runs perfect.  I've gone through the entire fuel system outside of the engine and replaced the engine harness because of bare injector wiring under the valve cover.  Are injector cups my best next step?  I almost started pulling injectors until I saw the harness.  It fixed an intermittent injector code and seemed ok but then the problem came back.

Does anybody know the story on Mahan's black Superliner lettered as Nuss Truck Group?  The description I've seen at shows claims it is a 650 Maxidyne "Hagerstown Special".  Doesn't it have an E7?

St Louis Macks page 5.  Couldn't figure out how to link it to this topic.  I've seen it for sale in the past as well in the red white and blue colors.

I don't think they all had cross braces.  The one on my 89 looks to be homemade.  I don't think my family's 88 sleeper had them mounted behind the bunk, but one always shook and eventually broke the mount.  There is also the option of running a single tie rod between the brackets as my MH has.

Wish I could squeeze a c15 in that rd, just lost a truck yesterday.  I saw the craigslist ad last night and figured somebody better have a post on here for them. Joseph Equip does come up with some surprising things.  Hard telling what will come of the newer gliders with pre-emission engines in the future.  1989 Macks are another story.  Although I still don't really want to know what the regulations are now in that backwards broken cesspool of a state called California.

Average on any 4 bag tandem suspension is 60-70psi with legal axle load weight shouldn't be more than 20psi empty.  If it just reads 100 all the time something is wrong.  A gauge that will read in load weight requires calibration and is no more accurate than learning what the truck weighs based on bag pressure.  If the sensor is tied in at a bag fitting then it should be in the right place.

4 minutes ago, MACKS said:

Hell we can’t even put a part on the counter at our Mack dealer,COVID rules..lol😂

Yes, those great plexiglass barriers that you have to struggle to sign an invoice around.  Maybe soon they'll be gone.  Just a week ago there was discussion about the new covid guidelines for masking and social distancing in the event of a nuclear attack.  Then suddenly ahead of President Dementia's State of the Union address covid was eradicated. 

4 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yeah that seems like a stretch... hell, is there a law dog that would even know what they are looking at?  as long as they are the same style and 'Length' positioned in the same holes, I dont see a problem........  and I too, tried to buy auto slacks for a steer axle last week. i gave them the part number on the slack adjuster, (Mack dealer)... they said, I cant help you, I need a VIN and need to see them..  I explained the truck was an '86 Superliner.  "Well I need a VIN"...  what a pain in the A$$... jojo

It just always leaves the thrifty prick with an option for a write up.  I haven't had any issues with this yet, but I've had such crap as them measuring the reflective tape on the mudflaps and writing it up as well as 1/2" thick oem legal length dump trailer mudflaps blowing too high.  I also remember the first dot cop around that starting writing dump trucks up for body-up lights before most knew it was a law.  The rest caught on pretty quick.

Steer axle slacks can be tricky especially on a Mack with rotochambers and the offset arms.

On 2/25/2022 at 11:37 PM, Moparmike said:

2000 rd688s 

anybody have a good part number

I'm trying to order some online but wanna be sure I get the right parts

 

mack said they couldn't give out part numbers

imagine that 😳

Off the top of my head 44 rears on camelback would be a haldex 10144 and aftermarket uses the same numbers

5 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

auto slacks first came out , it was critical to have all matching. is it not necessary now? the slacks had a color coded tye wrap . miss match  might have one adjusting faster than another.  replaced one last week on trailer suspension = couldn't find a color code. correct spline and ctr distance. 

According to law I was told at a bendix foundation class they must be the same brand across an axle.  So even a haldex against a reproduction haldex can get you written up.

Also as for yoke removal, 95% of my 2 jaw puller usage has been for yoke removal with no jaws in it.

54 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

if the yoke is installed, just take a box cutter to it.... gone.. new yoke, slide it off and give to youre purse puppy as a chew toy..  just sayin' ...  if i'm wrong... well the forum will say so....   jojo

I had to put some thought into this.  I don't think there is any good solution to dealing with road salt but one instance where the dirt seal would be beneficial is a truck that does asphalt paving.  That crap gets on and sticks to everything under a truck.  You wouldn't want a chunk of blacktop stuck on the yoke against the seal.  At least the rubber seal on a mack yoke allows dirt to throw out more so than the pressed on steel slinger on an Eaton or junk Rockwell rear.  Growing up with mack rears I learned how crucial vent maintenance is but other brands, especially with u-tube breathers are almost zero maintenance.