Dalton1

My last one the inner frame rusted all the way through, been using wool wax coating on this one regularly, seems to make a big difference.

Yes, surprisingly still very tight though 

Looks like the Atro kit SK62-50340 has the correct pads for my truck and probably all the other plow guys that run a former New York DOT CV713

Awesome thank you, should be able to get the ones I need now. Looks like there the same as a 44k but still double checking that.

I have tried to get part #s in the past from O'Conner and McDivitt in Manchester (whos since sold off there Mack side)but neither liked to give out part numbers. Maybe I'm just not getting the right parts guy. I was under the impression the Atros would out last the OE ones but I'd be interested to hear what you guys recommend, looking to get whatever works best and last the longest. 

That would be awesome, thanks! Last 6 is 067250, I can get the whole vin tomorrow if you need it. Was definitely planning on new hardware, nothing comes apart easy on plow trucks, will check those other things as well. 

I need to replace the insulator pads on my 07 CV713 with 46k rears, I was looking at the Atro polyurethane ones but I'm not sure which ones fit my truck, my mack dealer won't give out part numbers. Are the 44k pads the same as the 46k ones?anyone know what the correct part number would be for my truck?

Thanks!

Thinking about selling this 1966ish F715 cabover has a ENDD 864 V8 with a triplex transmission. Truck is very rough, engine turns over with air starter but doesn't run.

Located in southern Maine 

Any ideas as to what it might be worth if anything?

I believe Mack specs 10-30 psi for hot idle, my 96 E7 only had 10-12psi, bumped the idle to 625 where it should be and it came up to 18-20psi

If its a grey engine he's probably referring to the yellow lighting bolt and has some sort of malfunction that needs attention, especially if he's loosing power. Can check for blink codes to figure it out if a scan tool isn't handy.

On 12/26/2021 at 3:36 PM, mowerman said:

Is your dashboard that immaculate or is that an old photo???? Bob

That's from last winter, I wish the frame was as clean as the dash and I'd still have that truck.

41 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

good deal ....  How's thing in "Vacationland"?   I lived there for 23 years...     jojo

Going good up here, getting ready for our first snow storm tomorrow.

Thought I would update the post, finally got the engine brake fixed, ended up be a file in the computer adjusted to make it work the way it was for some reason, local dealer was able to reprogram to work the way its supposed to and no issues now. 

I was also excited to find out they were able adjust the power while it was there from 335 to 400, definitely pulls better now.

Just to update. I swapped the fluid with Mack GOJ plus 75-90, noise is gone and seems to shift a bit easier as well.

I appreciate everyone's guidance!

Thanks for all the input, I'll try changing the fluid first. I changed the fluid when I bought the truck, put in regular 50w then the noise started about 3k miles later, drained it to check for damage and refilled with syn 50w as that is what I was under the impression it required at the time. Will drain it and put in mack goj plus 75-90

Hopefully I didn't ruin my transmission trying to be proactive 

Checked all the bell housing bolts, I was able to tighten 4 of them half turn or better, one is stripped. Rest were tight. Will try to repair the stripped one asap. Seemed to make the noise quieter but definitely not gone but only had time for a quick test drive.

Transmission was replaced by previous owner and it was 5 years ago, not sure I would be covered under those circumstances. 

Will check the bell housing bolts in the morning, that would make a lot of sense. Whoever installed the transmission left about half the bolts in the floor plate out, hydraulic lines a mess and rear yoke bolt loose so I wouldn't be surprised. 

Thanks 

15 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Crook bearing in the box or a oil gallery is blocked 

 

Paul

Is there a way to check or clear the oil galleys?

Also if it makes any difference its mack reman with approximately 20k miles on it.

Ride hight shouldn't be an issue, it's on camelback.

Diff fluids looked good and are now new.

I realize 4th/5th and 9th/10 are the same gears, just trying to best describe the issue. 

Seems odd the noise will come and go, I would think if something was failing the noise would be consistent. 

I have a 07 CV713 with a T310 10 speed transmission,  it recently started making a bit of a growling noise in 4/5 and 9/10, noise is faint in 4th gets louder in 5th and gets louder the higher the RPMs get. As soon as I shift to high range in 6th the noise completely goes away till 9th where it starts up again and worse in 10th.

Odd thing is the noise comes and goes, sometimes I'll be driving 55mph in 10th and the noise will suddenly come and go.

So for I have changed oil using 50w synthetic trans fluid. There was some very fine metal on the magnets, torqued rear yoke bolt, (have had the loosen up before causing range shift issues) check range fork actuator o rings as well as looked under rear top cover, looked ok.

Any ideas where to look next would be greatly appreciated!

Does any have any idea what this box is for or if it's required? It was plugged in line with the instrument cluster wiring on my 07 CV713. Just has one additional wire going to ground. 

I removed it and it fixed an issue with my fuel gauge. Everything else works normal without. 

There in no markings or part numbers other than one for the bare aluminum box itself. 

21 hours ago, MACKX said:

I’ll look in the morning if I get around a granite to get an idea on that engine brake relay location..... did you check the connector at the switch for the engine brake?  Take the kick panel down on the passenger side and check the VECU module connections and make sure they arent rubbed and rotted from salt since it’s an old NYDOT truck. the lighting bolt isn’t on correct? The wiring to the cam sensor is good also ? 

I have checked the connector at the switch on the dash, that all looks good. I have not looked behind the passenger kick panel yet, will check that next. No lighting bolt, I hooked my scan tool up just to check and there was no codes. Wiring to the cam sensor looked good, pulled apart the connector and that looked good, haven't pulled that sensor out yet though. 

Haven't done that yet but will check those next, I was convinced it's an electrical problem since I can operate them with an outside 12v source no problem but I'm willing to try anything at this point.

Should the o-rings just be replaced while I'm in there even if they look ok?