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Dalton1

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Everything posted by Dalton1

  1. Thanks for all the input, I'll try changing the fluid first. I changed the fluid when I bought the truck, put in regular 50w then the noise started about 3k miles later, drained it to check for damage and refilled with syn 50w as that is what I was under the impression it required at the time. Will drain it and put in mack goj plus 75-90 Hopefully I didn't ruin my transmission trying to be proactive
  2. Checked all the bell housing bolts, I was able to tighten 4 of them half turn or better, one is stripped. Rest were tight. Will try to repair the stripped one asap. Seemed to make the noise quieter but definitely not gone but only had time for a quick test drive. Transmission was replaced by previous owner and it was 5 years ago, not sure I would be covered under those circumstances.
  3. Will check the bell housing bolts in the morning, that would make a lot of sense. Whoever installed the transmission left about half the bolts in the floor plate out, hydraulic lines a mess and rear yoke bolt loose so I wouldn't be surprised. Thanks
  4. Is there a way to check or clear the oil galleys? Also if it makes any difference its mack reman with approximately 20k miles on it.
  5. Ride hight shouldn't be an issue, it's on camelback. Diff fluids looked good and are now new. I realize 4th/5th and 9th/10 are the same gears, just trying to best describe the issue. Seems odd the noise will come and go, I would think if something was failing the noise would be consistent.
  6. I have a 07 CV713 with a T310 10 speed transmission, it recently started making a bit of a growling noise in 4/5 and 9/10, noise is faint in 4th gets louder in 5th and gets louder the higher the RPMs get. As soon as I shift to high range in 6th the noise completely goes away till 9th where it starts up again and worse in 10th. Odd thing is the noise comes and goes, sometimes I'll be driving 55mph in 10th and the noise will suddenly come and go. So for I have changed oil using 50w synthetic trans fluid. There was some very fine metal on the magnets, torqued rear yoke bolt, (have had the loosen up before causing range shift issues) check range fork actuator o rings as well as looked under rear top cover, looked ok. Any ideas where to look next would be greatly appreciated!
  7. Does any have any idea what this box is for or if it's required? It was plugged in line with the instrument cluster wiring on my 07 CV713. Just has one additional wire going to ground. I removed it and it fixed an issue with my fuel gauge. Everything else works normal without. There in no markings or part numbers other than one for the bare aluminum box itself.
  8. I have checked the connector at the switch on the dash, that all looks good. I have not looked behind the passenger kick panel yet, will check that next. No lighting bolt, I hooked my scan tool up just to check and there was no codes. Wiring to the cam sensor looked good, pulled apart the connector and that looked good, haven't pulled that sensor out yet though.
  9. Haven't done that yet but will check those next, I was convinced it's an electrical problem since I can operate them with an outside 12v source no problem but I'm willing to try anything at this point. Should the o-rings just be replaced while I'm in there even if they look ok?
  10. Anyone have any ideas as to where to look next? I've swapped all the relays I wasn't sure about, as well as inspected and reset ecu connectors and checked as much of the harness as I could for chafing. Took a video of what it's doing but not sure how to get it on here.
  11. Still haven't been able to locate a engine brake relay, there was 5 relays next the the block on the passenger side dash but 4 were labeled "Power Relay" 1-4 and the other was for the power steering fluid low light. I put a new engine speed sensor in, truck seems to start quicker but no change with the engine brake. Is it possible the brake cut out is programed at a higher than normal RPM? It's a former N.Y. dot truck and I know the order some stuff special.
  12. Thanks, I saw those, I figured they were for all the plow lights and controls. on this truck, I'll check them next.
  13. I'm not seeing any relays that appear associated with the engine brake? Any ideas where it might be? Looked in the glove box panel and panel on drivers side firewall.
  14. Yes works perfectly when hooked to an external 12v source bypassing all factory wiring.
  15. Also they are definitely powerleash not Jacobs.
  16. Everything is in adjustment, Brakes work perfectly when direct wired to 12v, even at idle. Still consistently only works over 2k rpms when on factory switch and wiring, cuts out as soon as drops below 2k and comes right back as soon as the engine accelerates over 2k.
  17. The truck has good oil pressure 25-27 at hot idle, only has 54k miles on it. When it cuts in and out its instant like a switch.
  18. Yes, low and high both work, dose the same.
  19. Took another look at the brake, it's definitely electrical as anytime there is power to the head they work, took it for another test drive, engine is only heating up to 175*. Once the engine is over 150* they, work but only over 2000 rpms as soon as you slow down under 2k it will cut out the will come back on over 2k again causing them to pulse off and on. Is it tied into the crank sensor? Could that be causing this? Tachometer seems accurate.
  20. Thanks guys, I will give that a try ASAP I do enjoy it here in Maine, it's been a hot one so far this summer!
  21. It's 728 cubic inch mack engine, 335hp. Basically and E7 with EGR from what I understand, it is painted Grey. There is no check engine lights, I haven't tried to pull any error codes but can check that. Not sure on the model engine brake, definitely a factory installed brake, I assumed it was a Jacob's
  22. I'm looking for information on a problem I'm having with the engine brake in my 07 Mack CV713 with AMI 335 engine. The Jake brake doesn't seem to work under 1800-2000 RPMs then will kick in and be very strong but will kick in and out every 2 seconds, like someone is turning the switch off and on. It does this very consistently. I'm thinking it's got to be an electrical issue, clutch switch is good, not sure how to check the fuel switch on this one. Is it hooked into the crank sensor and could that cause this issue? Any ideas as to where to look would be great appreciated!
  23. Thanks, I did look there but no numbers, I will check the rear behind the head next. Found what looks like where a tag was riveted on behind the injection pump but it is missing.
  24. Thanks! Got a head on the way. Still would like to know if any one has any ideas on how to ID the engine without a data plate??
  25. I'm looking to see if anyone has any info about what heads can interchange with the engine in my truck. Unfortunately the trucks VIN comes back to a glider kit and the engines data plate is missing so I'm not sure what engine I have, its a 2 valve with tip turbine and side mount cooler. Guessing a 285-315? Is there any way to know for sure? Truck is an '82 not sure on the engine, saw a 77 stamped on the side of the head. Engine dropped a valve and I am in need of a replacement head but they are proving difficult to come buy. The part# on the damaged head is 732GB5218B. It does not have engine brakes. Will any E6 2 valve Mack head work or does the part number need to match exactly? Thanks in advance!
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