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Posts posted by slingblade
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as of now,ive replaced the cab lock cylinders,replaced the small v shaped latch assist spring on bottom of right side latch with one sold at ace hardware,hydraulic hose going to right latch replaced,re position cab jack in bracket,swap tanks from right to left,positive grounded alternator rebuilt,replaced the primer pump on the injection pump,part# AMBAC INTERNATIONAL #MP 404760,fits the Robert Bosch/united technologies pumps, remade the metal pieces in the cab clearance light which was completely rusted away,ive also ran a new 6 wire cord from front to back to fix the tail,brake and turn signals,and have a few extra wires left to hook up a backup light,alarm,located a aluminum fab shop in the next town over that can cut the tank and install a wall,2 inch threaded bung and vent cap for me,ive also got pricing and availability on a PTO/ pump combination with special adapter that fits the maxitorque 10 transmission, tracked down the exhaust brake system [Blue ox] that im using on the motor,ive also replaced the threaded rod running through the right morror as it was found dangling by one end the other day,and today im installing the pins to hold the battery covers still,spring on air hoses/trailer pigtail,
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thanks,this should help out tremendously,
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you wouldnt know where i could come up with an electrical diagram?im getting ready to go through all of that,i also noticed it has the evaporator in the hump with heater core but its unhooked,going to see about checking it out for leaks and re connecting it,
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pulled the injector again today,took it to turbo diesel injection in Forest park,they had it ready for me by 130 this afternoon,said it was leaking at the split where it comes apart,,got home and popped it back in,i was giddy with excitment as i waited listening to it run,and no more leaks,now i can move forward to the next phase,,thanks AZB755V8 for the sound advice,
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On 4/29/2016 at 2:07 AM, AZB755V8 said:
First get the injector out ands have it checked at a injection shop. That maybe all that it is.. a bad injector.
There is an actual expansion joint in the area of the head between the valve seats. I have not heard of successful welding these heads or E9 heads. When their cracked it is for good and in a bad area by that joint. It is a problem with these engines and if the crack is big enough and goes into the exhaust valve seat, the insert can fall out and hang the valve open... bad for the valve and piston.
It sounds worse than it actually is... Just about every 865/866 has at least one or two cracked heads. I went through 18-20 heads to find 3 good ones and one with a very small crack for my rebuild. Some were really bad, certainly leaked and would given a little time drop the valve seats if run hard.
If it is a hobby truck your will not be running it hard and could be OK for a long time just putting around if it is a head issue.
pulled the injector and iddnt see any seal in the bottom,replaced with seal but still leaks,may pull it again to get the injector checked,found a head online but dont know till i talk to them if its been checked for cracks,are they fairly easy to spot?
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17 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:
First get the injector out ands have it checked at a injection shop. That maybe all that it is.. a bad injector.
There is an actual expansion joint in the area of the head between the valve seats. I have not heard of successful welding these heads or E9 heads. When their cracked it is for good and in a bad area by that joint. It is a problem with these engines and if the crack is big enough and goes into the exhaust valve seat, the insert can fall out and hang the valve open... bad for the valve and piston.
It sounds worse than it actually is... Just about every 865/866 has at least one or two cracked heads. I went through 18-20 heads to find 3 good ones and one with a very small crack for my rebuild. Some were really bad, certainly leaked and would given a little time drop the valve seats if run hard.
If it is a hobby truck your will not be running it hard and could be OK for a long time just putting around if it is a head issue.
thanks for the good advice,i stopped in at the injection shop today and picked up a few copper sealing washers,the injector in question is the one behind the shifting box,im thinking i can reach everything and take it all loose and skinny the injector out,i planned on working the truck so im going to have to somehow get it right,its pulling a dump trailer,but a 24 ft one so it wont have more than 24 tons to drag off from a stop,
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On 4/27/2016 at 0:23 AM, AZB755V8 said:
100psi oil pressure is a little high but with additives is realistic, too high and you can blow the filters off the engine. As long as you don't go below 30psi hot things are OK. Just make sure you set a high idle of about 800 RPM's to warm it up good. and get the pressure down a little.
The only seal on the bottom of the injectors is a copper washer, most times they can be reused or I have anyway. Hope it is just the injector. Not to scare you but if you are getting fuel up around the injector it maybe a cracked head. These older V8's cracked a lot of heads. The crack runs from the injector nozzle to the exhaust valve seat. I know, went through a pile of heads to find 4 good ones for my 866 rebuild.
Real nice truck... Real nice
thanks for the info,hope it isnt cracked,has anyone successfully welded the cracks?
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anyone have a wiring diagram for a 73 F 700?
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ive noticed it has neearly 100 lbs oil pressure cold,is this normal for these v motors?it drops down to 50/60 when fully warmed up,
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30 minutes ago, Underdog said:
Good luck with the F! Cool truck looks like got a good home.
Check the Wiki pages on BMT, pretty sure a lot of wiring diagrams are posted. Methinks I printed one out for my RW a few years ago.
yup,it has a western made superdog to keep it company here,i was able to find an rd wiring diagram here,il look for the F diagram,thanks,
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finally got it home,jeff Gee did an amazing job on it to get it to where it is,its got alot of small things that need fixing,adjusting or replacing,but overall its a solid running truck,the cab is fairly rust free,ran the numbers on the motor and its a 375hp, and it has the maxitorque 10 spd, Rayco rear suspension,adjustable 5th wheel, its got the kyser overhead unit and i noticed its got a evaporator in the hump section which is unhooked at the moment,would be easy to T into the A/C lines and hook it back up providing its good,im in the process of replacing all the brake chambers on the rear,done 3,1 more to go to stop the air loss,changed the oil and filters on it today and added a gallon of lucas with the rotella 15/40, ive added the lucas fuel treatment to it and want to run the fuel out before i change the fuel filters, overall it runs really good, im looking for information on the injectors,its leaking fuel out from under one of them and i need to find seals before i dig into pulling the injector,also need to find a wiring diagram to sort out a few issues with lights and city horn,if anyone knows where i can find info on it id greatly appreciate it,
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ive got a rare twin turbo 475 big cam cummins in my superliner,its a late 84 RWS 763LS,i bought the last tach cable assy from shehan mack in SD the other day and it was missing the plastic adapters in a plastic bag which usually comes with the cable,does anyone know where i might find the cummins adapter? the end that fits into the tach drive is round with a raised edge going lengthwise to fit the slot in the drive,any advice would be greatly appreciated,
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absolutely love it,hope you still have it once i get the money up
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you should be able to hook it up at mack and turn it up some,they are good motors if the lifters are steel,mack ran some ceramics that diddnt work out too good,
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richard kerns south of atl. Ga could do it in a day,and under 2000,,
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ive found a source for hendrickson suspension parts,Michigan truck and spring,they had a spring hanger for my 84 mack RWS 713 Ls for the extended leaf style suspension for 192.00,,i tried all the mack dealers and even hendrickson intl. with no success,and wasnt going the used route unless all other options were fully explored,
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the truck is a hoss glen,twin turbos,one compounds the other and it develops alot of torque in the lower rpms,got really lucky to find it on ebay,it was in sedro wooly Washington,almost in Canada,me and a friend drove it back to Georgia,43 hrs and 1700 in fuel,i work the truck almost every day,
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just need to dump the bags when dumping out heavy loads,other than that theyre ok,
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give me the eight digit # of the engine and I may be able to look it up.
18107945 CPL# 0586 this cam advance system,whats it for?is it manual or automatic?
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nice truck,what running gear does it have?
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nice to see other round headlight superliners being redone,good job there,
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nice to see other round light superliners out there getting redone,,good job
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contact isspro inc.503 288 4488/800 888 8065
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i watched a youtube vid where they made a cheap air conditioner out of a small cooler,cut a hole in the top of the lid and put a fan on it blowing in one side,on the other side of lid they put a pvc 90 degree elbow blowing air out and filled it with ice,simple and effective way to make cold air
Kysor roof unit in combination with in-cab unit in F-700
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
I'm working on a Hayward model F-700 Mack which has the roof unit as well as the hump unit. When i bought the truck, I noticed the hump unit was unhooked and want to tie it into the rest of the system as cabovers are notoriously hot in the summer. I've noticed that there is no condenser or drier mounted on the front and the only condense/drier is in the roof unit. Do I run the refrigerant through the roof unit, and then tie the high side of the hump unit into the low side of the returning line back to the compressor? Can't seem to find any info yet online about this. If anyone has info, I'd greatly appreciate it.