wheeler73

You may have a bad knob or relay on the trans. Check your uses to.There are schematics and trouble shooting guides online. I found them using google on one I had an issue with. The electric shift was not very popular here.

Under the left side of the steering column the cover for the epdm which has the eecu fuse in it. Hopefully the fuse chart is still with the cover

That is bad that they can not look up the tool part numbers.

The dealer can. We have ordered them for customers and for us. The tool part numbers are the same for Mack and Volvo and come from the warehouse.

From your local dealer. What cups are you installing? There are different tools for copper and stainless.

No problem. If you were closer I could do it for you. Unfortunately the dealers and Mack do not teach the old stuff anymore. So hopefully you have a dealer with a tech that knows.

A dealer will need to go into customer parameters and set power for failed and no speedometer to 100% and you will then have full power. Hopefully you have a good dealer that knows how to program VMACIII as most of the younger techs have no idea how to change parameters or program VMACIII as it is now considered in the dealer world as obsolete for the most part.

Replace the sensor. Guided diagnostics will tell you to replace the sensor and retest. The sensor does not start reading untill it is at around 480 deg for 10min. The learned data needs to be reset. The sensor does not do much as it was installed to get ready for the 2010 emissions.

2012 and up trucks still use a 7th injector to inject fuel for a regen. The SCR uses Urea injected into it to clean up the Nox. The 2007-2011 conventional cab trucks use a catalized dpf systems do have there issues which is usually a clogged 7th injector, air purge, and flex pipe issues. The 2007-2013 MRU and LEU use a non catalized dpf that have a lot of issues. The 2014 and up MRU and LEU use a catalized dpf and have very little issues.

The cracked heads are definitely a problem and will cause your complaint. Check you liner protrusion before you put the new heads on as I have seen issues with the liners not being the correct height and causing the head gaskets to fail.

If it does not have 2 lines to the top of it, it needs an air purge kit installed. If it does have 2 lines the air purge may not be working correctly.

The main issue with the ceramic lifters is lack of valve adjustments at the recommended times. The truck mackncheese is looking at has ceramic lifters. Mackncheese only thing I can suggest is for you to go to your local dealer and have them see if the programming is at step 12B. If it is not they can call tech support and have them turn it on and program it. If they tell you they can't tell you if it is at step 12B give me the vin and I will check for you.

Kingdirt which 7th injector do you have? Is it the big one with wires to it or just the one with only 1 line to it. If it is the big one there should hopefully be 2 lines to it as one is air purge. If not it can be installed. Without air purge the 7th injector gets clogged and will not due a proper regen and cause the issue you have. Also if it does have air purge or the small 7th injector there can be an issue with the air purge system that will cause the 7th injector to clog. I have seen that several times.

Check the rocker shafts as they have freeze plugs in the ends of them. Also is the oil pressure gauge a mechanical one or electric? If it is electric plumb in a mechanical gauge. Also have seen the freeze plug behind the idler gear for the camshaft come out a couple of times.

Could also be burnt injector cups.

Also forgot to say make sure the bolt holes are clean with no oil or coolant in them.

Mack states to use oil on the threads and under the head. No sealant on the bolts that go into water jackets. What engine are you working on?

Take the tanks off and steam clean them and then use denatured alcohol to help get all the water out and blow out all the fuel lines.

Replied to youe pm.

Yes it is. Those engines can't be upgraded to conical injectors. The only thing you can do is install cups with combustion washers and the 38mm injector hold downs and torque them to the new spec which is 15 ftlbs then 180 degrees, back them off to 11 ftlbs. Then tighten to 15 ftlbs and then 90 degrees. Also whenever a valve adjustment is don recheck the torque on the injectors. There is a special adapter and procedure.

You could have a burnt injector cup or cups. Also have seen the suction line from the tank or tanks rubbed through sucking air.

Hey Refined Trucker can you give me the whole vin? For some reason the sn you gave is not showing up

If you are ever in SW Florida let me know and we can perform the upgrade.

If you have Premium Tech Tool or a J-Pro you can perform a manual regen otherwise no unless it is requesting a regen.

wrenching4life you need to find another dealer. Sounds like yours does not know how to do much with VMAC III. I just did one yesterday and had tech support turn on a data file for the EECU. Where are you located?