harrybarbon

for the clearance light pads at restoration specialties it is a bit hard to find - go to the catalog PDF and scroll to page 60 - there you will find them, these are the correct rubber pads for your clearance lights and also comes with the sponge type seal as well, you can send an email with your lights,

They are a family business and very helpful

For your marker lights go to www.restorationspecialties.com - great people to deal with, they have the reproduction rubber mounts/bases for the clearance lights and the hollow rubber seals for the doors, (see the hollow tube on home page) we have fitted the hollow rubber seal on our B model cab, much better door closing and also a good seal for air coming thru, the solid door rubber does not give an tight seal.

With the clearance lights you can fit LED replacement globes, we have fitted them, tight fit but some adjustments and they will go in and when you put the glass or plastic lens into the frame the LED's will be held in place 

Great project, like the flat fire wall

my dad had the 4-53's in Inter R - 190's - the trucks had 2 gear boxes, one was the standard 5 speed Inter box with  2 speed diffs and others had 10 speed Road - Ranger, you can have a direct or overdrive box, if you want some extra speed go for the 10 over drive, I do recall that the flywheel housing matched the R/R box, clutch you may need to check . The 4-53 and 10 speed were a great, strong and reliable combination.

Need to get suitable diff - again an R-190 diff or the R - 200 Diffs are strong / powerful diffs.

We recently sold a1965 Inter R-200 with a Cummins 180 turbo motor with a R/R 10 speed overdrive, a 2 speed diff and Page and Page pusher axle, it ran easy 65 mph

What truck are you building?

we also just bought 1 for our 10 speed overdrive, tried to replace o-rings etc, but they are old and worn, air leaks are hard to plug - secure and easy to replace and did same on air valve at top of gear box - now peace of mind

What model Mack do you have? Does your truck have shock absorbers on front axle? We are now about order kit for our old Mack, we have done a lot of research, maybe send me a private message or your email address and I can copy you the information and fitting - for us it is a single Firestone bellow air bag or you may be able to fit a double bellow air bag with internal stopper, to protect the air bag. Also depends on gap you have between top of the spring pack Ubolts and underside of the frame. Do you have parabolic springs or ordinary spring pack because this may impact gap between frame and top of Ubolts   

Hi Leonardo

Thank you. My mum's family go back approx 200 years in the same village and the name was always spelt as Favaro, but who knows names have been changed over the years.

We did have cousins in Rhode Island name same as yours, sadly most are no longer with us, but mayde some younger ones hanging around, welcome to the Big Mack site.

Harry

Leonardo

You have same surname as my mum, there not many Favaro's are you related to the Favaro's from Rhode Island and where did you folks come from?

Harry

also Watts had some replicas made for the B model cab, however the front of the visor was a rounded finish, the Lund visor was a square shape

I have spoken and emailed the general manger of the company that took over the old Lund company. He told me that through 4 or 5 floods the old moulds for the various Lund big truck, Mack Inter etc, fiberglass visors were lost or destroyed. He said that there was no demand for the Lund fiberglass visors for the big trucks, whereas they do make the fiberglass visors for pick utes, SUV's and the like.

I asked the guy would the company mind or approve someone making copies of the old Lund visors for our use or sale to the old truck restorers, he said they have no objection whatsoever and there would be no legal issues. I did get his approval in writing via email maybe 2 years ago, I will try find the email, to protect ourselves just in case.   

Mack Doctor Jr - have you got any information of the system to introduce the hydrogen into the E6 motor.

Was the hydrogen pre-made and stored in a tank or is there a device mounted onto the truck that produces the hydrogen as it is needed

And any pictures that could be shared? I am very interested to get more information

This guy was saying that the hydrogen was an additive if I can express it in lay man terms, the hydrogen was not replacing the diesel fuel, the motor ran on diesel as normal

Maybe it is similar concept to adding Nitro into a petrol motor

A friend has rigged up a liquid petroleum gas - LPG - supply to add to his diesel fueled/powered Cummins engine and he gets an extra 25% + of horsepower and torque with the gas being injected into the motor - but he has to watch the pyro meter has to ease up sometimes - but once the LPG tank runs empty then he loses that extra power.

Try the concentrated orange citrus spray, spray on let soak in for few minutes and clean off per instructions - it will remove most glues, even silicon - put a thick cloth under the window so it does not damage any other surfaces

And use gloves

And it smells good if you like citrus and it's natural

At the 2009 Wildwood Florida Truck show, hosted by 75 Chrome Shop, a guy named Wayne Tomlin of High Performance Research and Development, Bradenton Florida was interviewed about his company's Peterbilt - it had a Cummins engine and Wayne said he and his company had developed a hydrogen system that supplied hydrogen into the motor via the air inflows which produced increased torque and horsepower plus better fuel mileage.

This hydrogen unit was fitted onto the Cummins motor. If you google 75 Chrome Shop and go to the Truck shows there is a video of the 2009 show.

I will try attaching the Youtube video

Does anyone remember anything or has any information about this hydrogen system? Was it real or not?

I am told he is no longer in business.

Apologies the system will not allow the Youtube video to be uploaded, you have to get it through Youtube

Attached is the Video of the 2009 Wildwood 75 Chrome Truck show with Wayne Tomlin interview

At the 2009 Wildwood Florida Truck show, hosted by 75 Chrome Shop, a guy named Wayne Tomlin of High Performance Research and Development, Bradenton Florida was interviewed about his company's Peterbilt - it had a Cummins engine and Wayne said he and his company had developed a hydrogen system that supplied hydrogen into the motor via the air inflows which produced increased torque and horsepower plus better fuel mileage.

This hydrogen unit was fitted onto the Cummins motor. If you google 75 Chrome Shop and go to the Truck shows there is a video of the 2009 show.

I will try attaching the Youtube video

Does anyone remember anything or has any information about this hydrogen system? Was it real or not?

I am told he is no longer in business.

We have converted an E6-350 HP 2 Valve Turbo Econodyne engine with Intercooler in front of the radiator - ( it came out of an R686 )- to a Tip Turbine with Turbo set up - same set up as the the 285 HP Tip Turbine/Turbo motor in the attached picture.

We have fitted the converted E6 into a B model.

Have any Mack owners made this conversion and/or know what performance/power the converted 350 produces with the Tip Turbine set up?

Our converted E6 motor has the Mack 1070 - 10 speed overdrive gear box that came with the E6 motor and we have 4.17 rears on R11/ 22.5 wheels.

Yes we got confused about the 2 products. When we first made our enquiries about Lizard skin there was only ONE product - it was called Lizard skin and this product is both a sound control and thermal insulation - hence the reason for the fry pan test. Then a couple of years later they developed a separate product for sound control - which I think is called Sound Control. The advice from the Lizard skin company, for the correct application process is - clean/strip the metal surface to bare metal removing all rust - prime coat the metal - apply 1 (or 2) coats of Sound Control - allow to dry properly ( in dry warm temp 3 hours max) then apply 1 (or 2) coats of the Lizard skin insulator.

Yes we applied both products to maximise the benefits in our B model cab for sound reduction and the heat reduction in the cabin.

Thomas thank you for the tape info. Here the air con guys use extensively what is called duct tape on ducts and it does not last. It's a big seller at the hardware shops.

Vlad - Re the lizard skin would be good to get some free product and I have no financial interest just an interested user, probably our guys have used it on 6 trucks to date.

We spent some time researching for a real insulator and sound proofing product because there usual products are not really 100% sealers and so if water or moisture gets behind the dynamat and similar products, carpet etc that is the start of rust and we find out when it is too late. The lizard skin is a real sealer gets into all tight blind spots so no water will get in and it is flexible. For old trucks there are many holes and cracks to allow water and air in so when good labour and money is spent on restoring etc the hidden sections need to be properly done then peace of mind.

I have posted this info so others can benefit from our research, sharing info is for all to get some progress in their truck projects and general knowledge. Good luck with your projects.

And yes our fry pan experiment did happen and no burnt skin, I think we stil have the fry pan in the work shop.

Vlad

I cannot recall the quantity used. Please Google "Lizard Skin" web site and it has all the technical info, including coverage per 2 gallon plastic container that it is supplied. Good reading and the information is accurate. We have made our own experiments including the FRY PAN test.

It is very popular with the USA hot rod shop guys, many of them apply the Lizard skin as standard product on their jobs for insulation and sound.

Also if you buy it, any left over will last for many years, leave it in the plastic container, press the plastic lid tight and then run the wide plastic duct tape around fully sealing so no air gets inside, turn the container upside down. Leave it in a cool, dark and dry place. When you want to use in future, take out what you require add some water and stir it to get a smooth paste then apply - don't make it to runny, again any left over put back into container and stir in with what is in the container. We have a container now about 9 years old and continue to use the Lizard skin fro time to time. Must seal the container air tight.

It has many other applications - example - air conditioning ducts in houses and buildings, where they are joined usually duct tape is used to seal the joint - this tape within 1-2 years the glue breaks down because of hot and cold temps, the ducts come apart in the ceiling or under floors and often we cannot see there is a problem we loose heat and cool air - easy solved - paint a coat of lizard skin around the duct tape plus approx 30 mm or 1.5 inches over edge of the tape all around the duct - it will never come apart. Also a black flexible plastic air cleaner hose on our car engine approx diameter of 4 inches - 75 mm, had a split about half the diameter, we cleaned the area around the split held joint tight - used a small children's artist brush to apply a coating of lizard skin with approx 10 mm overlap both sides of the split let it dry fro 1 day, next day gave the dried lizard skin a fine sanding to smooth the rough bits of the dried Lizard skin - hard to see the repair and has been operating for 3 years no further breakage. It is flexible. Can also be used in building work as an insulator around light fittings in ceilings for fire protection, split or cracked windscreen water bottles because it is water sealer as well - a very useful all round product to have on the workshop shelf.

Yes the first primer is a metal primer to seal the metal or fiberglass or aluminium body panels. And yes if the lizard skin is to be painted with a top coat then a flex must be added into the top coat or as we did added to the hyfill. On the underside of the hood we sprayed the lizard sound control and then a couple of coats of green top coat to hide the dark grey lizard skin - we added flex in the top coat.

Re the foam products we have not used them, we checked them out but they don't stick and seal same as the lizard skin. We have used the foam for building plumbing jobs and other general building maintenance jobs filing holes - can't compare the 2 products they are made for different uses. Old story do the homework, use the most appropriate product labor time usually about same hours, get job done properly once and don't look back.

The filler is hyfill that we sprayed onto the body panel after prime coating to produce a smooth surface finish before spraying the final top coat - on our cab it's the Irish green. To explain our process for the fire wall, on the engine side, cab stripped to bare metal, rust etc repaired, spray primer, then on the fire wall - engine side - we sprayed first the Lizard skin - the sound control,let it dry and lightly sand to remove rough finish, then we sprayed the second product the lizard skin and also did a light sanding after drying (they have the 2 products and must be applied as noted here), then we sprayed the hyfill - we added a paint flexible additive to the hyfill to make it flexible before spraying, the hyfill was sanded back and a second coat of hyfill with flex additive applied to get a complete cover and it was sanded resulting in a smooth surface, let it dry for 1 week then we sprayed the top coat (Irish green) which also had the flex additive - the pictures show the final result - fire wall is as smooth as the cab exterior and no peeling as we had when we painted without the flex additive - now 18 months since applied we have had extremely hot and 2 very cold winter temperatures and no peeling. We also applied the sound control and the lizard skin onto the cab interior side of the fire wall - so the fire wall is sandwiched on both sides with the 2 lizard skin products, we also did same to the cab floor (no hyfill because there is no top coat paint) the all other non painted surfaces inside the cab even behind the dash board - application inside the cab was max 30 minutes and a thin coat (thickness of a credit card) and just to be sure we gave a second thin coat.

It is a simple, easy product to spray onto metal and other surfaces and non toxic product - easy to wash up with water and it fills all the weld joints and metal joints and hard to get spots

Vlad the lizard skin is a rubber like skin with golf ball finish once it dries, it is now approved by the US car companies as an after market rust protector for repairing accident damage, for all underside panels. The inventor of lizard skin crated it from the space shuttle products used on the heat tiles around the shell of the space shuttle. There are other similar products that are based on the air bubble technology. The air freight couriers like DHL will transport the product, we got our first 2 gallon pails by DHL post 9/11, no problems. There are some web sites that you can read up on that people have written and compared the various sound and temp control products - worth reading. Good luck with your project.

Vlad - don't know how it compares to polyurethane undercoats - the 2 lizard skin products are water based and are applied after the base metal is prime coated with a traditional priming paint, which are usually an oil based product. Before prime painting good advice is to remove all surface rust. Best to go to the Lizard skin web site and read the technical information. If you need any further information send an email to the company and they will provide answers, I have emailed and called them, they have been very helpful when we had the problem applying the filler on top of the lizard skin on the engine side of the fire wall, it de-laminated the lizard skin off the fire wall, they resolved the problem telling us to add a flex additive to the filler and the green paint same as for painting the plastic curtain sides on tautliners. Has been on for 12 months all good and clean smooth finish on top coat as pictures show.

And I forgot to mention the lizard skin is flexible so it flows into all the cracks holes etc, especially the hard to get to places, it will go everywhere, the long flexible hose spray will go to all places especially the doors - so you won't have future problems with water penetration or air leaks it literally seals the cab - you can spray all inside the cab in under 30 minutes once prepared - let it dry and job finished, do the doors and they sound like alloy or fiberglass panels - tinny sound disappears