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Big Dog
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Posts posted by harrybarbon

  1. we fitted a vintage air unit, gen 1V, evaporator fits snug under the dash behind the glove box but you have reduce the depth of the glove box and we connected to the windscreen sock so we have cooling, heating and demisting same as in a modern car, heats and cools really great, you can make a suitable panel say 3 inches attached to bottom center of dash to hold the 2 air vents or more and also 1 on each side, so you have 4 vents and the 2 demisters outlets, fed from the evaporator unit outlets, our condenser is behind the front bumper, important to get a correct size condenser, the technical support team at vintage air are really helpful to give good information, such as the condenser size and even the appropriate evaporator

  2. Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

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  3. Please can someone explain or clarify my lack of political knowledge - Richard Stephens for Magistrate - "STANDING TALL FOR BERKELEY COUNTY"

    Magistrates normally sit ... as do all others in Court bar the lawyers when they speak etc


  4. Thank you Brocky. And by chance last night looking at Superliners on youtube I found a short video of Willard arriving at a truck show with his LTL, bob tail and reversing into his parking spot - it looks and sounds terrific, the E9 is a perfect match in his LTL

    I will try copy the youtube video and post here.

    Imagine driving along side of Willard's LTL pulling his loaded hopper or dump tipper on a highway, would be a video to watch but without the glam music some of the people load onto their videos - just the truck on the highway and the motor whistling, 2-3 minutes would be a pleasure, no more needed



    • Like 1
  5. Agreed H67 is great cab as well, typical of the 50's and 60's, they had real style. This H67 cab is the basic LTL and LJ day cab from the late 40's and extended to a sleeper cab by the Orrville Specialty Steel company in Ohio, they made most of the conversions from day cabs to sleeper cabs for all the truck manufacturers during the 50's up to mid 60's.

    And the yellow colour seems to enhance the looks of the DCO and the H67 -  colours can influence what we think about a truck shape and design


  6. also the door handle on the DCO,823906850_CornbinderCOE012.jpg.e7c7027a6970cdd802ebadf95653f185.jpg the internal push button is unique to limited Inter models from about 1963 to approx 1966, I have seen these door handles fitted to the R model R190 and R200 series comfo- vision cabs, DCO's, early Transtars, I have not seen this style of door handle on any other truck. The other push button door handle used by Inter from late 50's is similar to the Mack R model and F model , Diamond T trucks with the Inter comfo -vision cabs 

  7. Try fish oil, block up the door drain holes except 1 and with a flexible spray tube pump in the fish oil and else where spray as best you can especially all the under side - will smell bad for maybe 2 weeks but works well.

    Make sure you air blast the drain areas around the front fenders, usually lots of leaves and dust accumulates in these unseen spots, once clean of dust rinse out let dry and then feed the fish oil in.

    WD 40 is diluted fish oil - both don't hurt the rubbers, there is no acid or corrosive in them

    Fish oil, wd 40 and lanolin is good protection for today's thin cheap/chrome, just wipe over chrome with damp rag.



  8. Hi Thomas

    We are in the process of rebuilding a 1985 Neway ARD 238-6 suspension. We need to replace the all bushes and fittings, etc on all 3 sections, that is the frame hangers, equalizer beams and transverse beams and both sides of the suspension. Your pictures and information here is just in time for us. The maintenance manual is also very helpful.

    2 questions please,

    1/ The kit you paid $138 for the transverse beam, did this include the 4 split / beveled (wedge shaped) steel bushes and the 4 rubber bushes and other parts? If the beveled steel bushes are not in the kit, do you know if they are in stock/supply? Our transverse beams beveled steel bushes are history - rusted and we had to oxy/cut them to disconnect the transverse beam and equalizer beams.

    2/ What was the supply time, from time of ordering the kit to receiving and did you buy direct from SAFHolland, the Neway manufacturer?

    Thank you again for the pictures etc





  9. I am going to have a go with the Cyclo buffer and the Nuvite compounds on my 2 storage box lids - maybe tomorrow, if not by next Tuesday, so will post my results with a picture, test will be how the cotton nappy sheets will perform on the alloy checkerplate, if a few are chewed but the result is good then worth the effort -

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  10. I worked on our aluminium storage boxes this weekend. 1 end side had a number of scratches and 3 long bumps maybe 3 inches where the internal support bracket was welded. Not happy with my previous poor result using the polishing wheel and bar polish,  I decided to re-sand the end side with a Bosch circular sander that has the velcro sand paper, got nearly all the scratches and leveled the weld bumps.

    Using the cyclo double head polishing machine, separate double cotton nappies wrapped around the twin pads (to protect the pads) for each of the 4 Nuvite pastes, the final polish is mirror finish - so good I could shave with a razor. Plus a small amount of Nuvite goes a long way, expensive but damn good.

    Time permitting after work hours I hope to finish 1 box next week, then I will post pictures



  11. Yes it has 3 gear sticks, total of 38 forward gears, I was told when in first the driver could walk beside the truck and maybe even faster, and it pulled like a train engine.

    Here is picture of rear of cab, see the extra gear box mounted high in the frame about 3 feet from rear of cab. If you look closely, you can see the gear selector arm going to under the cab.  all original

    kyneton truck (12).JPG

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