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Big Dog
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Posts posted by harrybarbon

  1. Please does any member know if there are any toy bulldogs, that have the eyes light up with LED lights that can be bought.

    I have searched on ebay there are several toy bulldogs but none appear to have eyes with lights.

    Mack accessories do not have any doggies listed.

    Thank you.




  2. My daughter is traveling on a bus from N York to  Pennsylvania summer camp to do her second year as a group leader, after camp last year she told me that there were strict rules of behaviour for all students attending 7 to 16/17 years AND all the staff, there are about 800 students at her camp and 200 staff, the girls and boys have their separate dormitories, the group leaders are supervising their allocated groups from 7 am to 11 pm and there were no problems - camp for the students was 8 weeks. The rules don't change and many parents have their children attending every year from age 7 to 16, because they are confident of the safety and secure about the behaviour

    My son did scouts for 3 years and there was none of that nonsense at the jamborees, the rules were made known to all, and the leaders did their jobs

    The rules have worked for many many years, why change - to create division and invite problems?   

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  3. I know I am repeating what I have written but hard experience lesson - make sure you put the flex additive into the paint and hyfill etc, otherwise in all the hidden areas no need to paint over, but if say you want to get some colour into the lizard skin I think the current product is a lighter grey, you could put a little colour into the lizard skin, my guys put a little green paint into the lizard skin before they applied it under the engine hood for sound and heat control - picture attached, now the alloy hood sounds like it is fiberglass


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  4. Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

    • Like 1
  5. people seem to forget, we all gain from modern technology, however when there are power failures or comms are out, and we had them recently, it was like the world stopped - supermarkets could not process sales people had to wait up to 1 hour to complete their shopping, cash machines stopped, fuel pumps stopped - people got stuck and they could not go back to a manual system - I was lucky to have enough cash to pay for my groceries, if not !!!! 

  6. we fitted a vintage air unit, gen 1V, evaporator fits snug under the dash behind the glove box but you have reduce the depth of the glove box and we connected to the windscreen sock so we have cooling, heating and demisting same as in a modern car, heats and cools really great, you can make a suitable panel say 3 inches attached to bottom center of dash to hold the 2 air vents or more and also 1 on each side, so you have 4 vents and the 2 demisters outlets, fed from the evaporator unit outlets, our condenser is behind the front bumper, important to get a correct size condenser, the technical support team at vintage air are really helpful to give good information, such as the condenser size and even the appropriate evaporator

  7. Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no1.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no2.JPG

    cab paint inside Aug 2103 no3.JPG

    • Like 1
  8. Please can someone explain or clarify my lack of political knowledge - Richard Stephens for Magistrate - "STANDING TALL FOR BERKELEY COUNTY"

    Magistrates normally sit ... as do all others in Court bar the lawyers when they speak etc


  9. Thank you Brocky. And by chance last night looking at Superliners on youtube I found a short video of Willard arriving at a truck show with his LTL, bob tail and reversing into his parking spot - it looks and sounds terrific, the E9 is a perfect match in his LTL

    I will try copy the youtube video and post here.

    Imagine driving along side of Willard's LTL pulling his loaded hopper or dump tipper on a highway, would be a video to watch but without the glam music some of the people load onto their videos - just the truck on the highway and the motor whistling, 2-3 minutes would be a pleasure, no more needed



    • Like 1
  10. Agreed H67 is great cab as well, typical of the 50's and 60's, they had real style. This H67 cab is the basic LTL and LJ day cab from the late 40's and extended to a sleeper cab by the Orrville Specialty Steel company in Ohio, they made most of the conversions from day cabs to sleeper cabs for all the truck manufacturers during the 50's up to mid 60's.

    And the yellow colour seems to enhance the looks of the DCO and the H67 -  colours can influence what we think about a truck shape and design


  11. also the door handle on the DCO,823906850_CornbinderCOE012.jpg.e7c7027a6970cdd802ebadf95653f185.jpg the internal push button is unique to limited Inter models from about 1963 to approx 1966, I have seen these door handles fitted to the R model R190 and R200 series comfo- vision cabs, DCO's, early Transtars, I have not seen this style of door handle on any other truck. The other push button door handle used by Inter from late 50's is similar to the Mack R model and F model , Diamond T trucks with the Inter comfo -vision cabs 

  12. Try fish oil, block up the door drain holes except 1 and with a flexible spray tube pump in the fish oil and else where spray as best you can especially all the under side - will smell bad for maybe 2 weeks but works well.

    Make sure you air blast the drain areas around the front fenders, usually lots of leaves and dust accumulates in these unseen spots, once clean of dust rinse out let dry and then feed the fish oil in.

    WD 40 is diluted fish oil - both don't hurt the rubbers, there is no acid or corrosive in them

    Fish oil, wd 40 and lanolin is good protection for today's thin cheap/chrome, just wipe over chrome with damp rag.



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